No. There isn't any KTM with spoked tubeless rims. New AT is even more off-road oriented so as well good old normal rims!

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Javier...
Dakar Motos “ ”

No, the 800GS and 800GSA have 21/17-in tubed which is why I bought the BMW F650GS twin with 19/17-in alloy tubeless wheels.

Spoked wheels might have some advantage if you are racing but if you are adventure touring then in my opinion there's no reliability disadvantage with an alloys/tubeless mix, which opens your options to a whole new list of bikes to choose from, though the narrower profile and taller 21/17 or 21/18 wheels will always be preferable to 19/17.


Nothing wrong with alloys here!

No that's wrong, the KTM 1090 Adventure R, 1190 Adventure R and 1290 Super Adventure R are all fitted with 21/18-in spoked tubeless rims.

I hate tubes with a vengeance and run my KTM 690 Enduro R (21/18 spoked tubed) with mousses instead of tubes.

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"For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
and enlarges the world in which you live," Irving Mather (1892-1966)

Yes. Tubeless they are.

Anyone know what sort of tubeless wheel they use on the KTM's?

Behr? or other?

If that 1090 was a couple inches shorter I might be on board one.

Are you completely sure that are tubeless rims???

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Javier...
Dakar Motos “ ”

Why not just fit a conversion tape kit and make them
wheels on an AT "Tubeless"
My DCT AT was converted from new 35.000 KM ago with no problem.
For peace of mind, I fitted a pressure monitoring system to check the pressure in both wheels.
As of today, I have never had a problem.
Works for me.

Good suggestion. I heard about tape kits to convert Tubed to Tubeless maybe 10 years ago. Back then I'm not sure they were 100% reliable. Now, latest UTubes I've seen and forum chatter, indicates they are pretty fool proof.

Woody's Wheel Works (USA) I believe has resumed doing tubeless conversions but still won't do a front wheel, only rear. Fine for me as front is pretty easy to spoon off and replace a tube ... and anyway ... seems we always get a REAR flat! Not a Front!


BTW, I followed a tutorial using a high quality Marine sealer to make my DR650 rims tubeless. I could not get it to work. Not even sure from where it was leaking ... but obviously I did something wrong.

The newest Tape kits seem to work much better.

KTM's solution seems fraught with possible problems. IMO, the wheel needs to be Spoke Free (meaning spoke NOT going into inside of air tight wheel area) to have a proper tubeless set up, even though many are doing well with latest Tape kits. I'd need a PRO to do it for me ... I apparently suck at such operations!

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Patrick passed Dec 2018. RIP Patrick!

Exactly what i had done by Devon Wheel Builders, a fine set of custom wheels for a special build i'm doing, thoroughly recommend them for UK readers here...

X-ADV scooter is another one for the list, but maybe not in the OP's 'adventure and dual-sport motorcycles' category.

I've sealed (or had sealed) spoked rims to run tubeless on a few bikes, some more successfully than others. See here.
As Tim says, the bead retaining lip in a spoked rim is key but not always present on the front. So these days if I'm changing wheel sizes (as I recently did to my XSR700), I'd sooner find a cast wheel that fits to preserve tubelessness.

I agree with Tim entirely and Toby E...

... I agree with that too. Cast or spoked not bothered, but much prefer tubeless.

Just back from Morocco trying out the new 310 and among the many sensible adaptions for off-road riding I was disappointed to see the rental place had gone to all the effort of swapping out the nice alloys for spoked which in this case unfortunately means tubes. There are certainly not always unsprung weight benefits in going spoked, as on the CB500X RR.
What is more likely on the long road: smashing your cast rim beyond repair but walking away - or having to fix a puncture in 32°C?

For the type of travelling which HU is about tubeless is clearly best, but not all will agree. C'est la vie.

Just make sure you carry a full set of spokes and passed the wheel-building course...

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Morocco Overland 4 (2025) • Trans Morocco Trail

OP's list updated - see 1st post.

Fyi, for those with regular spoked wheels in search of TL, I recently used a vulcanised band called Airtight from Central Wheel Components (UK) to seal the spokes. £120.

Excel rim; Anakee Wild tyre.
Threw in some Slime and no complaints.

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This is how KTM do it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--Ucwqhd0tI

Maybe different markets receive the bikes with different rims? (i.e. just leave out that internal rubber fitting and fit a tube instead).

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Dave

Moto Guzzi V85TT have been spoked I believe since Year 2 or 3

As someone who still considers himself a learner rider, ABS and tubeless wheels have always been two must-have options. However I know very little about the benefits of spoked vs alloy wheels, and to keep myself honest here, for my riding needs, I suspect that spoked wheels may be more of a cosmetic rather than practical feature. Expanding my search to include alloy wheels would, as you say, open up my options considerably, which would be most welcome, as many of the bikes on the current list (top post) is beyond my set budget!

Anyone who did the PhD level research to get their doctorate might come up with this:
Spoked wheels are derived from the invention of the bicycle (which initially had solid wheels and evolved into a spoked arrangement as the technology moved along) - and that is the key to it.
Modern technology can produce a cast wheel well within tolerances. light enough in weight and to budget to do the job for, say, 99% of the population.
Tyres ditto.

Job done, PhD earned.

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Dave

sorry you failed, please try again

for adventure, off-raod use I'd rather have spoked wheels any time of the day and night. When you crack you cast wheel in the middle of nowhere you pretty much done, not so much with spoked wheel. Not to mention absorption of bumps and S#$% on the road is far better with spokes wheels.

Spot On!
While modern cast wheels can be (some) much stronger than those from 20 years back, they still can have vulnerabilities.

Yes, we all agree changing a flat rear tire is no picnic, can ruin your whole day.
But this skill is something ALL ADV travelers need to master and MUST have the tools and ability to do this in a pinch.

For me, I will ride on a flat for miles to get to a tire repair guy, yes, I hate doing rear flat repair! And ... I really SUCK AT IT! Some tires on some bikes can be very tough to break the bead on.

But if you seriously crack your tubeless cast wheel you could have even more serious problems. If the cast wheel totally breaks apart ... then what?

Spoked wheels provide a bit of Flex and shock absorption. Cast wheels not so much. Many times a spoked wheel can be pounded back into shape. Cast wheels, not so much, but I did have my Vstrom DID cast wheels repaired twice from hard hits in Baja, one finally cracked, could not be repaired.

The Vstrom was so common I was able to find a replacement on the forums for about $150, IIRC.

But the OEM's are showing the way forward with their spoked, tubeless wheels.
Some use the Center rail spoke attach point (Aprilia, Yamaha, et al), others are BMW style where spoke attaches on outer edge. KTM have reinvented the wheel with their system ... and IMHO, is not great! (time will tell!)

I have seen BMW tubeless wheels destroyed off road on two occasions. On one occasion, we lent rider a tube, he was able to continue. A new wheel cost him something like $800.

Something else to consider: Ever tried putting a plug into a knobby tire? Depending where the puncture is ... it is not always straight forward.