Good! Nice simple fix!
By the way ... in English that part is called a "Regulator/Rectifier".

Hope that's is the end of problems!

Thanks

Regulator/Rectifier is a known weakspot of XL600V Transalps and XRV750 Africa Twins. Glad you sorted it out, these bikes are phenomenal.

Sadly i got kinda a missunderstanding with the repair place and meanwhile I keep asking me one question...

The problem is...the boss of the garage called me on wednesday and told me that he put a used regulator in the transalp and it's working fine now. Just so I can ride on, but he also told me that they ordered a new one and I have to come back as soon as it arrives so they can change it with the used one.
He wanted to do a testride anyway and call me again. Yesterday evening he called me, but i missed the call. So today I called again and only got the seller on line, he said that the Tranny is fine and i can pick it up. I asked him if theres's a new regulator getting and he said "nono its fine now"... im 90% sure that he just didn't know that the boss told me that I'll get a new one, sadly this guy is kinda annoying and refused me to pass me on to the boss. Tomorrow I will call again just to be sure because I don't want to drive there to pick up the bike with the used one...its too far and some1 has to bring me. I wanted to wait till the new one arrived.

But the question: How do I know if the regulator breaks again?! Is it just driving until puff: same problem?! Or do i need to get such a plug some1 mentioned earlier in this thread? with a voltage thingy.

Because then i might order this one
https://www.amazon.de/WINOMO-Motorra...r+Usb+motorrad

If the "used" Reg/Rect is not too expensive, I would leave it in place ... and take the "NEW" part on board with you as a "spare" for when you travel. Not to large, easy to pack somewhere.

Or ... put in the "new" reg/rect and forget about it. You are lucky it was not a failed Stator ... very expensive part.

I'm sure you have read about others who relocate the Reg/Rect. to a place where it gets more air flow and stays cooler.
Something to think about ???

I called again today and the seller said that there won't be a new regulator.

So the Boss told me something different...he refused giving me the boss. I will drive there today and pick up the bike and try to talk to him again, I hope I am not too annoying and they don't hate me already xD

So it seems like I'm only getting the used one. If this one breaks again I probably will just pay some money and get a MOSfet one, any tips here? I've heard they are way better then the original ones, true?

And also, relocating the regulator seems like a good idea but where?! Under the seat is the only option i can imagine but there is no airflow at all is it?

Hey one more think

It feels like the revs in neutral are lower now (after it came back from the repair place) and I am not sure if I handle the Choke correctly.

I ask this in this thread, i hope thats fine

Before I brought it to the repair place the revs where at around 1200RPM with choke fully open. I closed it when the engine was cold and closed it after maybe 2-3 km and it was fine. But the weather was also much warmer then now (does it have something to do with temperature?).

Now, when i start it I also close it ofc but when I open it again the revs go down to maybe 900-1000 rpm. It sounds like the engine is stopping every now and then, makes me nervous at traffic lights

I mean i just tested it, the engine is NOT dieing but is 900 rpm in neutral too low? I thought 1200 is about right.

I would go over to the HONDA forum here on HUBB. Start a Trans Alp thread, or find on older Trans Alp thread already there. LOTS of hubbers have done long trips on the Trans Alp ... LOTS of good knowledge here ... you just have to ASK!

Also, there must be a Trans Alp Forum in Germany? Ya Ya?

I don't know the bike well myself, but I do know basic carburetor function.
Is it just ONE Carb or two on your bike? I'm guessing TWO Carbs, one for each cylinder, ya?

One is easy. But both your Carbs most likely will have TWO adjustments.
One is the Idle adjustment. I'm sure you have found that one by now? One Screw may adjust BOTH carbs at once.

The other will be the Fuel/Mixture screw. (each Carb has it's own)

The 3rd element that can affect idle is your choke (enricher) Make sure it's working correctly and not STICKING ON. This happens on older bikes. Use WD40 or similar to free up choke cable and operation.

It is normal for idle to SLOW DOWN once you shut OFF Choke. Choke should only be used for starting engine. Once engine is running for less than 5 minutes ... turn OFF choke. Idle will drop down slower. This is normal.

Fuel Screws need to be adjusted correctly as well. But first, set idle with
Idle Adjustment screw:

Ride bike until fully warm (HOT!). Put in neutral and note Idle RPM number.
Make sure Choke is OFF. (closed)

I would set the idle between 1200 to 1400 rpm. (this is your choice! I prefer a slightly higher idle!)

If two carbs, then carbs must be "in sync" then adjusted individually.

Read up on your Carb(s), learn about the Fuel/air screw, sometimes incorrectly called Air Screw. It actually controls Fuel flow at very low RPM,
like Closed throttle up to 1/4 throttle . You generally adjust the Fuel screw to obtain the highest idle (also do when engine fully HOT)

Turn adjuster screw OUT until highest/smoothest idle is found. Now, screw adjuster IN on half turn. (more lean) You're done. For best fuel economy always run this setting as LEAN as possible and still maintain a smooth idle.

Once that is done ... re-check Idle adjustment and put it back to 1400 RPM.

That's the trouble with carbs, the knowledge base for them is vanishing as FI becomes universal and engineers away many of the issues.

Yes, the engine will idle lower when it's cold and as the air temperature drops it will take longer to warm the engine up so your 2-3km will stretch out to a longer distance before the engine idles at its normal speed.

I'd want to travel for some distance - maybe 20-30kms in colder temperatures - before deciding whether the idle speed was too low or not. There will be a screw under the tank somewhere for adjusting it if its too low but if you do it before the engine is fully warm (hence the 20-30kms) it'll be too high when the engine does warm up.

And then there's the issue of balancing the carbs so each is pulling its weight at idle ....

And yet, the basics are out there in the ether:-
Motorcycle Repair Course
(there is a section in there named "fuel").

Of my three bikes, two use carbs and one is FI.

__________________
Dave

I just used the transalp repair book to check how to fix the issue and adjusted the screw for the revs a bit. Its going smooth on 1200rpm now.