The place where I have to put my bike is outside, no electrical plug nearby. It's safe from rain but beside that I have to use a cover sadly.

This means that I have to get rid of the Alarm. But that's fine, I don't really see how this Alarm thing helps anyway xD If someone want to steal the bike he has to come with a trailer anyways and I always lock the handlebar. I never used the Alarm so far.

In another Forum the people where sure tho that my navigation cable was the issue BECAUSE from that navi i bought it got a fairly weird cable with a 12V to 5V transformer.

And this transformer is draining the battery even if there is no navigation system at the end of the cable.

Seems a bit unlikely (or bad design) - suspect the alarm has a bigger draw.

But if that's the case can you just pull the fuse on the nav mount and only put it in when you need to use it (or add a switch)


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For now I get rid of all the cables. Today after work I will also get rid of the alarm.

I guess next season I will bring the bike to a repair place and they should get the electric done probably.

edit: This one is the Alarm System: https://www.buggycity.eu/product_inf...d--roller.html

It's in german sadly. It says that it got a proetction for manupilation due to a emergency battery.
It uses 4mA in standby OR when it's turned on.

Edit: Also found the Manual...it says that the Alarm System is draining the battery empty after 2 weeks if the motorcycle doesnt get moved. So as a conclusion...i am 99% sure that the navi cable AND the Alarm System managed to drain the battery within 1 week empty. It still was enough to start it but I couldnt start it again after the stop at the gas Station. The Problem is, if the battery (it MIGHT be a type AGM one) is completely empty it can't get charged by the lightmachine therefore...the engine stopped working as soon as the laste Piece of voltage was used (after the Mercedes guy bridged it). That would explain all of the Troubles.

After work i will put the battery back in...get RID of the Alarm. JUST the motorcycle electronical stuff and nothing else (okay i Keep the grips but just because I have no idea where they are plugged to ). If it works fine then and I don't get any Trouble in the upcoming weeks (I will not ride for 1 Week atleast and check if the battery lost any power) I might put back the navi cable or the Alarm. So i can eliminate the Trouble causing parts.

and btw, i stopped putting all the capitals down haha, german stupid Keyboards and Computer Keep automatically put capitals on most words. Im just tired of manually changing it back xD Sorry

Update:

I put the battery back in, it was fully loaded and after 2 hours still 12V. So i guess the battery is fine?!

The engine started immediately, like expected.

the voltage kept at 12v...BUT when I went up with the RPM the Volt remains the same. Still 12V... but it should go up to 14...

I can say that the battery is fine right? What now?

Hi.
This sounds like a classic Honda issue. The start or rings in the alternator are burnt out. A full battery will show only 12v whatever the revs because it is not charging the battery. It will slowly drain and eventually again will stop. Stator rings are not so expensive and easily replaced. Honda recalled lots of bikes for upgrades a few years back.
Hope this helps. Ben

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__________________
To judge a man by his lowest ebb or deed is to judge the ocean by just one wave

Mh is that a case of warranty?! I have no clue how to check/change those.

By the way the detailed Volt testings...i got a proper tester now.
The first value is the first testing. After testing all 4 I tested it again, thats the second value.

Completelly off: 12,4 Volt - 12,38 Volt.
ignition on: 12,05 Volt - 12,00 Volt.
running engine: 12,14 Volt - 12,12 Volt.
5000RPM: 12,30 Volt - 12,28 Volt.

It does look like it's not charging but my first stop would be the regulator/ rectifier (reg/rec - two functions in one box) rather than the stator. They're €85 new from a place near me or about half that on German ebay.

Before spending any money I'd certainly check the alternator output. You can do it yourself if you've now got a test meter but google or youtube may have to be your teacher. If you find it is the regulator and you need to replace it spend a bit of time checking and cleaning up every single electrical connection between the alternator and the battery. Electricity needs to go where it's supposed to and it doesn't take much corrosion / rust to stop it.

Yes I got a tester now, sadly I have no idea what you are talking about haha

I can post my results here. I tested it directly at the battery...the numbers are weird, I can't explain it...but what do I know?!

Next to these results:
I decided to ride around for 50KM and got more numbers for you guys:
Instantly after the 50km ride:
Completely Off: 12,08 Volt
Ignition On: 11,7 Volt.
Engine Running: 11,75 Volt.
5000rpm: 11,90 Volt.

So my understanding of electrical energy is: IF the battery is charging, it should go up by WAY more then just 0,15volt but if it is NOT charging, the voltage should be WAY under 12,08 Volt after 50km of riding.

So what the hell?!

Ah and also the rectifier is getting really warm...google said that means its broken, right? RIGHT?



Whatever, tommorow i give it to the repair place. DIY Test1: failed.

Good luck I hope you get back on the road soon

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__________________
To judge a man by his lowest ebb or deed is to judge the ocean by just one wave

Those numbers are about right for a bike that's just running on battery electricity.

When you charge a 12v battery up (like you did) it'll read a bit over 12 volts on the meter - about 12.6 volts, so roughly what you had (you said 12.38). If you then take electricity out of it (to run the bike) it'll stay around 11.5 to 12 volts for some time until it's drained. Then it'll drop quite a way down. The systems that run the bike - the ignition mainly - stop working when the battery voltage drops below a certain level. That's when the bike stops.

Replacement electricity is produced by part of the engine as you ride and that's used to top the battery up. Unfortunately it produces it in a form that the battery can't use so it needs to go through the rectifier (the box with fins on it in your picture) to be converted. Also, there's often too much of it so the second half of the finned box controls how much gets to the battery. It should be just enough to keep it fully charged but if either of those parts of the finned box goes wrong nothing gets to the battery. That looks like the situation you're in.

Also unfortunately you can't examine the inside of the finned box as all the electronics are set into a kind of resin for (don't laugh too loud here) reliability. If, as you say, the box is getting warm ( the fins are there to keep it from getting too warm) it suggests at least some electricity is getting in from the engine but your meter readings suggest none is getting out. If it was, the reading at the battery should be at least 13.5v or possibly a bit higher. That's because you can't charge a 12 volt battery with a 12 volt "level" of electricity. It needs to be a bit higher to "push it in".

None of this is going to much of a problem if the bike is under some kind of warranty. Just let someone else fix it. I'd check the battery numbers with the meter when it comes back though. You can't be too careful with these things.

Just to add, I use one of the things shown below wired directly to my battery.
Thereby, I get direct readings of the battery voltage/condition constantly while riding - unless I choose to switch it off (note that it is switched and also is fused on the live side of the connecting wires).

Dual USB Motorcycle Phone Charger Blue Voltmeter with On/Off Switch 5V 3.1A

Typically, it shows about 12.5 volts, +/- a decimal point, while "static" (engine not running) and up to nearly 15 volts when giving the throttle "some welly" (the latter a technical term for over and above, say, 6000 engine revs per minute).
While increasing the engine revs it is also sensitive enough to read and display the increasing voltage level as the stator rotates faster (thereby generating more alternating current).

All this constant feedback of battery voltage readings assures me that the charging system is working OK, the regulator/rectifier ditto and the battery is in pretty good condition (see the earlier electrosport link for the reasoning as to why this is reassuring).

It used to be the case that older machines, cars bikes whatever, were fitted with a voltmeter as standard equipment and folk understood the purpose of such a fitting and how to interpret the readout - not so much nowadays.

__________________
Dave

Yep - it's always a good idea to write the date on a battery when replacing one.

__________________
Bruce Clarke - 2020 Yamaha XV250

That looks like a really good gadget to add, and quite cheap. It won't stop things going wrong but if you keep an eye on the numbers as you ride you'll get an hour or two of warning before bike stops so at least you won't on be the fast lane of a motorway when it cuts out. Plus you can charge your phone from it.

I've got a very simple 3 LED version tucked away behind the screen on my CCM. Red = battery going flat, green = all ok, yellow = overcharging. Blue for overcharging would have been better but it was only £2-3 on eBay so I can't really complain. I can see the LEDs easier than numbers at night or when my eyes are watering with wind / rain etc. It's been working fine for about 10yrs now.

Thanks Backofbeyond for the very detailed explanation!

Quick update: The Charging Controller is broken.

So it's the problem we already suspected, sad that they have to order a new one so it will take a bit longer but that's okay