I get the impression from the OP that the Cork dealer would only supply the control unit on the understanding that it was non-refundable. Whether or not he did any programming is only important if the current owner wants to try and sell it privately.

The way in which it broke down is also an important factor in determining what has actually caused the bike to stop (or not start in this case). If it was as the OP said one minute the bike was working 100%, he then stopped and a few minutes later tried to start the bike and it was completely dead then he was probably right to think that it was an electronic failure. In my experience broken wires initially cause intermittent faults leading eventually to complete failure but the problem with electronic failures is that they can just occur for no good reason (although heat is usually the cause).

If this sort of fault occurred on my low tech bike I would have tried 'hotwiring' the starter motor and ignition circuits depending on the exact symptoms. I'm not sure how much the CANBUS technology affects things but, for example, if the starter isn't turning I would disconnect the existing wiring and jump it directly from the battery - if it turns then it points the finger at the switch and numerous interlocks (neutral switch, sidestand switch etc.). OK I realise I'm probably over simplifying things as I have very little experience of such complex machines but it's interesting to note that technology hasn't overcome the problem of fatigue breaks in the wiring loom at the headstock! I would have thought that some sort of wireless connection could be used.