Just in case anyone was considering using the new larger tank with last year's bike, it doesn't appear to be that easy. Although Honda told me at the NEC that there were no changes in the frame between the two bikes, the front fairing is different; this means that you'd need to buy the new tank AND the fairing, quite an outlay! Far easier to get a 5l can!

Re the battery debate, here's a REALLY GOOD article and discussion on the technologies of various batteries.

__________________
Grant Johnson
Seek, and ye shall find.
------------------------
Inspiring, Informing and Connecting travellers since 1997!
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

"Myth: Lithium batteries must be kept fully charged at all times

LFP batteries tend to function best when kept between 13.05 and 13.6 volts, but if they are discharged below 10 volts, that messes with the chemical balance in the electrolyte. An LFP battery discharged below 13 volts is unlikely to even start the motorcycle, which would lead many riders to try to jump or bump start the bike. This is a mistake; the unique charging requirements of an LFP battery (see the next myth) mean that bump starting the bike and engaging the motorcycle’s onboard charging system is likely to damage the LFP battery’s cells, causing them to eventually overheat and possibly catch fire."


I think the author needs to get out more ... reports from DOZENS of Li Po battery users I've read indicates bump starting is perfectly fine. Once bike starts the bikes charging system takes over as normal and will bring the Li Po batt back up to full capacity ... and very quickly vs. AGM.

Unlikely bike will catch fire (super hyperbole there!) as long as the bikes charging system is not faulty. There is a very remote chance that if the Regulator/Rectifier are faulty then it could allow for battery over charge.
But even then, a FIRE is quite unlikely.

Most times the "no Start" with Li-Po is the batt needs to be warmed up! So
switch on your headlight and wait a minute. Try again. Many many Li-Po noobs miss this simple fact. As I said earlier, it's counterintuitive but that's how they work.

"Myth: Any charger will do for LFP batteries

If you buy an LFP battery for your motorcycle, don’t cheap out on the charger. It is critically important to buy a charger that is optimized for use on LFP batteries for a number of reasons. The most important reason is that the proper charger “understands” the LFP battery’s unique charging requirements, which are not the same as those for a lead-acid battery—and that includes AGM batteries, which use the same basic electrolyte as your grandfather’s vintage pickup truck’s battery. Bikes with “always on” electronics (clocks, alarms, etc.) will discharge an LFP battery fast; remember that while the lead equivalency may be high, the actual amp-hour capacity is low, and while a good LFP battery charger can bring a discharged battery back from as low as one volt, it has to be done properly, by using low current until the LFP is above 12.8 volts, when it can then be hit with higher current for faster charging. A lead-acid battery charger uses high current at low voltage, which could easily damage that expensive LFP battery.

Both AGM and LFP batteries benefit from being on a charger when the motorcycle is not being ridden, but it is more important for the LFP batteries, which also MUST use a purpose-specific charger. If you have a mix of AGM and LFP batteries in your motorcycle fleet, that means you need more than one charger, and don’t mix them up. In the words of Ghostbuster Dr. Egon Spengler, “That would be bad.”

Once again the author is incorrect. He should study up on what the major Li-Po battery manufacturers have to say on this subject.

I looked at Shorai and Anti-Gravity (I own and use Both) and both companies suggest a conventional "smart charger" like a Battery Tender are FINE for charging and maintaining their Li-Po batteries ... with the caveat that you MUST NOT leave the charger on for too long. You should not plug in and come back in a month. But you can charge the Li-Po until fully charged ... then remove the charger. Also, not a good idea to use a HI AMP charger suited for Automotive. What you find is that Li-Po batts recharge in record time ... so no waiting around for hours like a discharged Lead Acid batt.

The author also fails to mention just how much LONGER a Li-Po battery can sit unused and uncharged and not discharge. This, to me, is a big one! How about months?

Granted, if your bike has an passive alarm system or other electronic items that create a constant parasitic draw ... then yes, even the mighty Li-Po can discharge over time. But even my super high tech Ducati does NOT discharge the Batt parasitically. (no alarm, GPS or Comms)

If Shorai (Number ONE producer of Motorcycle Li-Po batteries) says its OK to use my Battery Tender ... I'll go with that. And remember, Shorai SELL their own Li-Po specific charger ... but DO NOT demand users purchase their charger
with veiled threats of disaster as the BMWMOA guy suggests. Talk about creating myths!

And if you look into the hundreds (mostly NON BMW riders) using Li-Po batteries world wide today, this fact can be verified and many other mis-statements above corrected from actual long time Li-Po users.

One mistake many new Li-Po users make is they buy a too low output battery.
If the correct sized Li-Po battery is chosen, most times riders have good experience.

there is also longer front suspension travel probably because of bigger tank.