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9 Jun 2012
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Veteran HUBBer
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Norfolk/Suffolk border
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When you are riding and then brake does it judder or can you feel a pulse through the brake lever? If so the disc is warped.
But a brake holding on is most definately a xaliper problem.
The piston is seizing in the bore. What happens is moisture in the brake fluid has corroded behind the seal. Expanding it and not allowing the piston to move freely.
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9 Jun 2012
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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When you are riding and then brake does it judder or can you feel a pulse through the brake lever? If so the disc is warped.
But a brake holding on is most definately a xaliper problem.
The piston is seizing in the bore. What happens is moisture in the brake fluid has corroded behind the seal. Expanding it and not allowing the piston to move freely.
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9 Jun 2012
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Oh, no no no, the wheel turns freely when the brake is off. The caliper piston is not seized (I moved it when I changed the pads).
The only problem is when I press the brake lever. I don't feel any pulsing though: if there is pulsing in the brake handle then it's really minor and the bike shaking overpowers the feeling of the handle.
So now - what new disc(s) should I get?
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9 Jun 2012
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I was suspecting that there's something wrong with the front disc (besides it being warped, ofc.). And now I measured it.
The outer diameter is 267mm, and the brake pads uses only 2/3 of the disc, so I think there should be 282mm disc (???).
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9 Jun 2012
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I fail to se how you should get more brakepad touching the disc, by going to a bigger disc. The whole brakepart of the bigger disc will be 10mm more "outward" the whole way around.
Try to hold one of the used brakepads up to the wearpattern on the disc, the pads are "too small" to use the whole part of the disc. From the back of my mind I would say they only use 4/5 of the disc, but 2/3 might just be correct.
The bigger disc was first added in 1996 (as I recall)
It sure doesnt sound like a warped rotor. I would take the caliper apart and clean it thoroughly. Not only the pistons and the grooves for the seals, but everything. Regrease (lightly) the appropriate things with appropriate greases.
You need, or atleast I use: Special brake grease for brake piston and seals. Coppergrease for the pins, the little leafspring-plate-thingy which the pads rest on, and ordinary grease for the sliding joints of the caliper.
Add fresh fluid, and take it from there.
If you want a new disc (it would g great with fresh pads and a rebuildt caliper) just buy the cheepest one you think looks good. Ebay has a lot of nice wavediscs ect.
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9 Jun 2012
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As you say it would be more "outward" the whole way around, but 7.5mm, not 10mm.
Maybe my expression of 2/3 was incorrect and confusing...
The old brake pads were ~6mm off the brake disc, and as they were worn they started touching each other. So the bigger disc would "slide" under the pads, so the pads would be touching the disc with all their surface.
There's two wear marks on the disc that I can define: one very old and pretty minor, and one from the old brake pads I removed.
By the older wear I see that you are correct - 4/5 or even 5/6 of the disc was used.
By the newer wear I can tell that it used about 2/3 of the disc (because ~6mm of pads were off the disc).
Difference between these two wear marks is about 6-7mm, so at some point of my brake disc's life it was used, probably, in another bike or with another caliper.
282mm disc fits to XT600 Front 95-04 as this eBay listing says (I don't take blame if that's wrong):
Disc Brake Rotor Yamaha V-Star 1100 XT600 Virago XV250 | eBay
In (near) future I will take care of my both calipers (sandblast, repaint, rebuild), but now I'm just too convinced it's the disc.
1. disc is a little darker (not so shiny) from less wear at the warped part.
2. caliper is not seized and works nicely (all parts moves as they should).
3. the disc is most likely to be wrong for the bike, because the brake pads are ~6mm off the disc.
4. a too unlikely coincidence that 267mm disc has 7.5mm less friction surface for the pads than 282mm disc and my old pads were 6mm of the disc?
Regarding the new discs: the wavy ones would look great, but they are either very expensive or made in China
I found these discs:
Yamaha XT 600 E 90 Disc Rear Kyoto Wavy Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer
Yamaha XT 600 E 90 Disc Front Kyoto Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer
I'm not sure of the size these discs are, I'll need to get a quote from the seller.
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11 Jun 2012
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Zergman, where did you get your new wiring loom? I'm planning on doing similar stuff to my 1994 XT600E soon, and I'd like to replace the wiring loom. Previous owner had cut and bodged it, and I think a whole new loom would give me peace of mind. I think they are still available from Yamaha, but at a very high cost.
The bike looks great, by the way.
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11 Jun 2012
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I dont care where parts are made, so I guess were a bit different that way (which is fine by me )
Heres a picture of the wearpattern on my front rotor, so you can compare to youre own.
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11 Jun 2012
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Thanks BlackDogZulu!
I got my wiring loom from eBay - eine der größten deutschen Shopping-Websites, as well as all other parts I needed: ignition coil, CDI (well I didn't need that, I think I'll sell it...), Acerbis gas tank, etc. Used parts are cheaper there. New parts (seals, brake disc pads, carburetor to cylinder rubber fittings) are cheaper elsewhere (.com; .co.uk).
The wiring loom cost me 45EUR and shipping another 14EUR. Don't hesitate to bargain, most or the German sellers speak English, and you can get these items you need at a lower price than usual (I did, although I don't remember how much cheaper...).
I made a mistake and thought that I can repair an unrepairable wiring loom, and being a cheapskate cost me four times as much as it could if I just replaced the wiring loom... Never again will I experiment with a wiring loom!
I also bought a wiring loom that I didn't use (bought a wrong one, so I just took the flasher relay and fuse+holder). It is from 1992 XT600E (3TB). The number on the harness is 3TB-82590-11. And it also has a device that I don't know what it's for, it reads: 12R-01 omron 0691D6
The harness looks fine, I didn't cut it anywhere. If you need some pictures of the sockets just PM me and I'll email you the photos.
Cheers!
Tadas.
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11 Jun 2012
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Hey Jens.
Well I would not care too, but Chinese usually makes a lot of low quality stuff. Although they can make good products if they want. So I'm not sure if these brake discs are low or high quality. If someone has tried them out, and can recommend brake discs made in China, I'll give 'em a try.
Your disc wear looks as it should (as my old wear looks like). The new (shiny) wear is different. I'll modify your pic to show you guys.
The zone marked red is obviously your disc wear pattern, but the blue is mine.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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13 Jun 2012
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Thanks!
Well for now I will have to be satisfied with just the new rotors I would love a new front end, but that will have to wait. How did you fit it and what modifications were done would be great! (I could not find that info on your mod. thread)
I found some stuff over here:
http://www.galferusa.com/WebExchange/DF%20W2007.pdf
Pages: 283 (item 459, front), 285 (item 467 rear, 470 front), 291 (493 front).
But the question is how to order them? :confused1:
I've been drooling over these S3 Performance discs for a while now. Do they need countersunk bolts? And where to get them?
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14 Jun 2012
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Location: XXX<-Portugal->Azores->Santa Maria (island)
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I see you went for the expensive ones..
I believe the front disc brake rotor needs M6 bolts but please make sure...
So, for M6, take a look here:
M6 Countersunk Head Allen Socket Screws High Tensile 10.9 Black Pack of 10 | eBay
I bought some of these for my front disc brake rotor... M6x35mm
You just can't go wrong with these!
Vando
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