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19 Jun 2017
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Thanks,
Unfortunately grinding things off the gears is no option for me. Too much for this project.
I wish there was just a new replacement gear that is made from a stronger material.
Too bad the kedo gears are so expensive, I'm not paying 250 euros for 2 gears....
Maybe i'll get new factory 3aj gears.. or just leave it like this..(the gears aren't THAT bad) and then just oil changes and riding carefully in 5th gear
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25 Jan 2019
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So after a long time I finally had time to bring the crank over to the local shop.
They pressed it but unfortunately it skipped 0.6mm in 1 go instead of 0.3mm. So now the big-end play is 0.30mm (should be 0.35mm-0.65mm) and the crank width is 74.70mm (should be 74.95-75.25mm).
They work on a lot of old engines, but mostly cars. They said 0.3mm is perfectly fine, and the 74.65mm is also fine since it has regular roller-bearings on the side.
Any thoughts? Should I go back?
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27 Jan 2019
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That's .002" less but still .0118" clearance (SAE since I'm used to it) , it'll be ok .
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'86 XT600/3TB motor,,, '88 XT600, ,,'92 XT600e,,, '08 Husky TE510,,, '05 DRZ463,,, '95 KLX650 ,,,'96 KLX650
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27 Jan 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrider
That's .002" less but still .0118" clearance (SAE since I'm used to it) , it'll be ok .
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Thanks. 10W40 fine with the above in mind?
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28 Jan 2019
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Yup .
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'86 XT600/3TB motor,,, '88 XT600, ,,'92 XT600e,,, '08 Husky TE510,,, '05 DRZ463,,, '95 KLX650 ,,,'96 KLX650
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28 Jan 2019
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I just found out that in a XT600Z service information it clearly states 0.25-0.75mm big-end clearance, while in the XT600 EAC 1990 service manual it states 0.35-0.65mm. I thought the 600 engine core (crank, piston etc.) was pretty much identical for all models. Does someone have any idea?
Last edited by Doubleyoupee; 28 Jan 2019 at 16:22.
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28 Jan 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrider
That's .002" less but still .0118" clearance (SAE since I'm used to it) , it'll be ok .
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+1, you should be fine
do a dry mount of the crank in cases, button them up and see if it turns freely to be sure
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28 Jan 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboguzzi
+1, you should be fine
do a dry mount of the crank in cases, button them up and see if it turns freely to be sure
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Wel unfortunately it's not.
I just found out the big-end pin is now touching the bearing:
My understanding is that the bearing should be placed all the way against the crankshaft, although there will be some clearance because of a small shoulder that prevents the inner race of the bearing from going any further. Correct?
Either way, it's now rubbing against the pin as you can see in the picture... so I brought it back to be adjusted.. if possible  (i've already removed the timing gear).
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28 Jan 2019
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havent changed a left bearing in a while and too many other motors open to remeber, but a crank that i have here has a good 2.4 distance between pin and bearing
im afraid there should be a washer between bearing and crank, the parts list wil not show it because its one assy
no way a few tenths mistake would cancel a 2.4mm gap..
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