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Stator problems/replacement. Stator problems/replacement.
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Giovanni Lamonica, Aralsk, Kazakhstan.

I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by Giovanni Lamonica,
Aralsk, Kazakhstan.



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  #16  
Old 26 Feb 2018
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From personal experience I'd be very careful with the heat - I managed to melt the glue that holds the magnets in place and it still didn't move. The hammer did nothing for me either. What did work was to put a metre long bar on the spanner and crank it with that. It might fly off though so put some restraining wire on it just in case. Good luck - it's a tough job.
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  #17  
Old 26 Feb 2018
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Speedy, if you hit the puller centre bolt, which you likely will have to, you will most likely damage the crankshaft end with that setup you have.
You need to use a spacer so the force is not put on the threaded portion of the crankshaft.

See post #5 which shows the spacer coloured blue

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...r-clutch-53329

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  #18  
Old 26 Feb 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warin View Post
-------------------- Heat
It is the difference in temperature between the shaft and the collar that is important .. not the total temperature.

So you want a lot of quick heat not slow heat. You do want it where your heating it, but something more powerful than what your using.

Temperature wise ... any seal on the shaft will melt if too hot. Oil will start to boil. And the magnets loose strength. I'd limit it to the boiling point of water.

------------------- Impact
Hitting it with a hammer .. where? The hit should be no top of the single long bolt you are tightening ... with the biggest hammer you have. After each hit check the bolt is still tight.

Good luck.
Then I need to get something that heat up quicker and se how it goes, and I`m hitting on the top of the bolt.
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  #19  
Old 26 Feb 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy Gonzales View Post
Then I need to get something that heat up quicker and se how it goes, and I`m hitting on the top of the bolt.
KEDO - Protective Sleeve for Crankshaft Thread (Bronze)
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  #20  
Old 26 Feb 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobmech View Post
Speedy, if you hit the puller centre bolt, which you likely will have to, you will most likely damage the crankshaft end with that setup you have.
You need to use a spacer so the force is not put on the threaded portion of the crankshaft.

See post #5 which shows the spacer coloured blue

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...r-clutch-53329

Bob

I`m hitting the centerbolt yes and there ia a spacer between crankshaft end. Will se if I can find something I can use as a spacer.
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  #21  
Old 26 Feb 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtrock View Post
This is a good tip, need to check if I have something similar in my hardware store.
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  #22  
Old 27 Feb 2018
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Tighten the puller, give it a whack with a big hammer.
After that you should be able to tigthen the puller a bit again, and give it another whack. Doing this a couple of times should make it fly right of.

Common sence has to be used, but they can be on there pretty tight.
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  #23  
Old 27 Feb 2018
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https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...-Tools/2767-20

Get hold of a machine like this or other high torque impact wrench, some stores have for rent.
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  #24  
Old 28 Feb 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtrock View Post
Yes, that's a good point.
I've been using just another nut (not bike's one) from my diy kit, placing it at the end of the crankshaft.


Kedo sleeve might protect thread better, meanwhile nut prevents flywheel flying across the garage : )

On my very first attempt of flywheel removal I've left tightened puller overnight, than hammer worked.

I still think that slide hammer might be best and safest way, so probably will modify my "puller" with this option.
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  #25  
Old 28 Feb 2018
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I used an old socket to protect the shaft. I tried using a normal off the shelf nut to block off the tool end of the socket but the centre bolt just ate straight through it. So I cut a little cube from the 12mm plate I was using to make the puller and that held. There are some serious forces going on there. Another tip someone on this forum gave me was to lubricate the thread on the pulling bolt.
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  #26  
Old 5 Mar 2018
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It`s still fighting and will not come of but here is still tips comming, I just work on in between other things I do and hopefully it will be ready when snow is gone away.
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  #27  
Old 26 Mar 2018
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Finally the flywheel gave up ang came loose using a old socket and longer bolts for the puller The starter clutch was also fighting a little bit but using a puller it came loose to.
Cleaned up everything and put all back together again, when try to start the battery was shot so I got a new one but the starter would not turn around the engine, used the kick and it fired up after a few kicks, running good and charge as it should, 14 v, due to the charging problem it started with half a year ago. I think the starter is the problem, it turns but slowly, maybe it is stuck because it have not been used in 3 years. Have a spare starter i will try tomorrow and see if it works then.

Thanks for all the tips I get here in this forum.
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  #28  
Old 26 Mar 2018
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A few more pictures.
On the last picture there is a small hose I wounder where it should be because I cant see where it goes.
Is it a vacum hose for something ?
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  #29  
Old 28 Mar 2018
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You shouldn't have to press the starter gear off the bearings , they should slip on with just a slight drag but not more .

I put all new cables on my estart , from the battery to the starter relay, then relay to starter, using 4ga (IIRC), roughly 2 ga heavier than stock. Used heavier copper ends soldered on myself , all for best possible juice flow .Much easier to get all the available oomh at the starter. Before doing this I couldn't get my starter to get past the first compression stroke on the hi comp motor , after the heavy wires no problem. When new the stock wires are probably ok(not great though), but after years they slowly flow less.



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  #30  
Old 29 Mar 2018
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I agree with jjrider, heavier cables are a must! It only cost a few €, and you can easily do this at your garage, even kitchen, if you dont have a garage

I would also recomend doing all new ground cables, they ussualy cause most problems...
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