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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



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  #1  
Old 11 Aug 2024
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Originally Posted by N67 View Post
yes, flex hone was also an option, but besides the shipping time, finally decided that being completely inexperienced in this, achieving needed pattern (more or less..) would be easier with sandpaper and slow progress..

simple mineral oil indeed seems a proper alternative of dedicated motorcycle break-in oil, which anyway seems hard (if not impossible) to find locally. thanks a lot for this hint, maybe i'll get mineral oil for bike engine even with matching viscosities.

and indeed looking forward to do that well loaded break-in when time (and parts...) come.
Sad to hear you are stuck again and summer almost gone... Honing with sandpaper? If you doing this again atleast buy honing brush!

https://www.staypro.no/maskiner-verk...oaAjiTEALw_wcB
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Old 12 Aug 2024
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Originally Posted by xtrock View Post
Sad to hear you are stuck again and summer almost gone... Honing with sandpaper? If you doing this again atleast buy honing brush!

https://www.staypro.no/maskiner-verk...oaAjiTEALw_wcB
generally, i don't ride during jan-feb, so still looking forward to nice autumn rides.
and thanks for the link; let's see what/when i'll have to hone after this, but will consider dedicated tool for that.
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Old 12 Aug 2024
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i understand that life situation poses some challenges, but not sure your engine will understand.... your DIY hone might or might not work, we dont even know what grit you used, if it was emery cloth or plain sand paper and even if i knew, i could never tell if it'll work

in my 45 year of wrenching, I never did it by hand, neither heard about anyone doing it. draw your own conclusions

your motor, your choice.

By the way, if you use google translate on xtrock's link, you will even see the are noting all the paramters to reach good honing,

regretfully, that link goes up only to 60mm bore, youll need bigger than that of course


this ones are also cheap and adapt to any bore


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSqgJh0Ed5o
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Old 12 Aug 2024
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Originally Posted by turboguzzi View Post
i understand that life situation poses some challenges, but not sure your engine will understand.... your DIY hone might or might not work, we dont even know what grit you used, if it was emery cloth or plain sand paper and even if i knew, i could never tell if it'll work

in my 45 year of wrenching, I never did it by hand, neither heard about anyone doing it. draw your own conclusions

your motor, your choice.

By the way, if you use google translate on xtrock's link, you will even see the are noting all the paramters to reach good honing,

regretfully, that link goes up only to 60mm bore, youll need bigger than that of course


this ones are also cheap and adapt to any bore


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSqgJh0Ed5o
Well i didnt link for him to buy here, it was for him to find correct tool for job, offcourse it will have to be correct size, you write like others are idiots here! You dont get the perfect cross honing with your link, cross honing is what machineshop use so ye buy it. https://www.mscdirect.co.uk/abrasive...ning-tools?p=2
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Old 13 Aug 2024
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well, indeed agree about the risks of not achieving needed finish.
but still had decided that this attempt at least would be better than leaving cylinder wall like it was - with the signs of glazing...
"tool" was plain sandpaper (320) along with the engine oil.
and i do realize that in the scenarios like this at some (increased) extent will have to rely on the crossed fingers..
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Old 29 Aug 2024
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well, meanwhile carbs arrived. as noted earlier, finally decided to try ones from raptor 660 (chinese copies).
first impression was about weight - 200grams more than original kit.
then, about cleanliness - just ok, not super-clean. no big deal since there's lots of studying / tuning times ahead, naturally involving cleanings as well.

Last edited by N67; 30 Aug 2024 at 20:57. Reason: some details/question are not applicable any more.
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Old 30 Aug 2024
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Cant imagine you get any quality that will work over time for 35euros, let us know the fuel consumption, bet its not accurate. I was down to 0,34l 10km last trip with KN filter, fully exhaust Yoshi and stainless downpipes + dynojet kit. Good luck!

Last edited by xtrock; 31 Aug 2024 at 09:28.
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Old 30 Aug 2024
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Cant imagine you get any quality that will work over time for 35euros, let us know the fuel consumption, bet its not accurate. I was down to 0,34l 10km last trip with KN filter, fully exhaust Yoshi and alu downpipes + dynojet kit. Good luck!
sounds you've got pretty nice kit on the both sides of the engine )
well, considering that during the last month or so bike consumes 0 fuel, feeling that any positive number will be better..
also, pardon me bringing maybe too much of subjective perspective, but for now this chinese kit is the best kit in the world for me, as it's only option to get the bike running again.
otherwise, if/when the future lets, still thinking to install normal ydis. it's one more reason for which i'm trying to keep the original airbox setup.

ok, some updates -
this new kit is 1.25cm shorter (filter-engine axis), so thinking to craft some aluminum adapter plate between engine and manifolds.
speaking of manifolds, using pair of right (bigger) intake manifolds of xt, one assigned on left with 180° flip.
also, as these carbs have shorter fitting ends towards the engine, had to cut 3mm from manifold lips. afterwards they join well.

on the airbox side, right (bigger) air duct fits. but had to modify left one - cut ~1cm on the carb side and with scalpel and sandpaper made more or less soft (curvy) transition inside.
then took raptor's air duct and cut ~4cm from it (also carb side).
afterwards fitted that cut part over xt's duct like sleeve.
appeared pretty tight. glued with gasket silicone.
offset is about 1 cm:


these carbs are taller and their both lower and higher ends are more bulky compared to xt's carbs. had to play with some cables to make the fitment easy.

main problem for now is the distance between diaphragm vent passages and bike frame. it's too close even without that adapter plate:


seems it's possible to cut some of their length.

in the case of raptor, these vents are connected to air ducts separately.
does this setup of raptor affect the diaphragm response?
what if i connect them to just the atmosphere with some sort of filter (like it's in xt's case)?
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