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Tabernas is an area of badlands, similar to many others around Spain. On large scale Spanish maps they even use the word 'badlands'. Basically poor soil that doesn't support much in the way of plant life, so it's the soil rather than lack of rain that causes the problem. And then when it does rain, there's nothing to stop the water washing away the crap soil.
Generally Spain has excellent off-tarmac riding, lots of caminos (tracks) everywhere.
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"For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
and enlarges the world in which you live," Irving Mather (1892-1966)
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