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TS185L Starts and runs, revs fine at idle, won't go over 30MPH TS185L Starts and runs, revs fine at idle, won't go over 30MPH
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  #1  
Old 24 Apr 2009
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That was the conclusion I was drawing nearer to (and dreading).

Do you know how to get to the coil?

I can't seem to figure out how to get the magneto cover off. There appears to be only one large nut holding it on, in the center. But it spins freely with the magneto. How do I hold the cover still, while I loosen the nut, or am I just going about it all wrong?

Since my last post, I've de-carbonized the head and piston, and everything makes it sound better at idle, so hopefully, if I replace the coil, I'll have a damn fine bike.

Please let me know if you can help out, as far as knowing how to do the job.

Thanks very much

Ed
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  #2  
Old 24 Apr 2009
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Just saw your second post, and I have the same question as to how I can get the magneto cover off.

Ed
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  #3  
Old 24 Apr 2009
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Wait, now that I've replied 3 times in a row on my own thread, I have another question.

Are you talking about the coil in the magneto for ignition, or the coil for the spark plug for ignition?

Not to sound stupid, but don't those have the same name.



Ed
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  #4  
Old 24 Apr 2009
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In my case it was the ignition coil that the spark plug and HT lead connect to (bolted to the frame underneath the fuel tank). To remove the magneto you'll need to select 5th gear, then undo the retaining nut. After that you'll need a flywheel puller. Before getting behind the magneto though, I would suggest that you try Will's ignition coil as his bike appears to be running well.
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Old 24 Apr 2009
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Will do (first thing in the morning).

I'll let you know how it turns out,

Ed
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  #6  
Old 24 Apr 2009
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Ok, so it isn't the ignition coil. I put wills coil on, and it didn't affect anything .

I already pretty much ruled out carb, because I tried swapping wills carb with no change. I've done the spark plug, coil, carb, pei wiring, all new oil in the oil tank, the oil injection works, timing is very close to the mark (about 1.5 MM off), Compression is 122, and it runs.

The only new thing I've found is that in neutral it will go to the higher RPMs, but what I didn't realize until today was, it will still bog down at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). If I hold the throttle wide open in neutral, it will bog down and sometimes continue to run at about 1 grand, but very poorly. Same thing while riding, if I hold WOT in second, It will putter along, sounding terrible, at about 1 grand.

It does this at any mixture setting, with 2 different mikuni vm24sh carbs,

Could it somehow be trans?

I am at a loss

Ed
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  #7  
Old 25 Apr 2009
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Aaarrgghhh!!!!!! The ts185 ghosts are back! This was one more symptom of mine - ran great on a small amount of throttle, died on full. When this happened we blew compressed air on the inlet side of the carb while WOT and the revs picked up again. So it needed more air. But the carb settings were stock so we thought 'that's not right'. I was pretty convinced it was the new coil that fixed the problem. But i did change both crankshaft seals at the same time - perhaps it was that. When the crankshaft seals go, the crankcase sucks in extra transmission oil from the gearbox which doesn't burn as easily as two stroke oil. If more air is added to the mixture (compressed air) then the mixture burns hotter and is able to burn off the extra oil. WOT will cause the greatest suction in the crankcase so that might be why it runs fine on 0-1/4 throttle, but dies at full throttle. In saying that, it could still be electrical if there is some damaged wiring in or around the stator plate...i think this is a problem for NigelMark
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'73 ts185 burns out headlight - ThumperTalk This thread Refback 17 May 2009 03:45
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