Hello,

We crossed the border into Senegal at Diamma yesterday, here is some up to date info for anyone going this way.

Piste - It's easy and smooth all the way, few bumps and holes here and there, but really nothing. Perhaps a little trickier in a car, but on a bike it's a breeze.

Mauritanian border - About 10km before you reach the border there is a 'checkpoint' charging 5 euros per person 'park tax' for the National Park. We stood and negotiated for some time, but there seemed to be no reprieve. The receipt book was unfortunately empty and so a receipt could not be issued, though they assured us that other people had been given a receipt.

At the border, the police charged 10 euros per bike and 20 euros per car. This is double the previous rate and we were told it covers the 'overtime' rate for the police since the post is open 24 hours. Obviously this accommodates the well known 4am rush at Diamma!

The customs then charge 10 euros per rider/driver. We didn't crumble quickly to either of these demands and the Mauritanian officials became increasingly abrupt, receipts were available from both police and customs. It seemed neither charge was negotiable, maybe someone else has recent experience here too?

Finally we were asked to pay the communal tax for the village, which may or may not be real but since I'd already forked out 50 euros I'd had enough. The charge started at 5 euros per vehicle, then went to 3 euros, then 500UM, then finally 300UM per vehicle. The final amount then was small, but it felt like we were being taken for a ride so we waited it out for a while and they let us through with no payment.

Once through to the Senegal side, the bridge fee is 8 euros or 4000CFA per vehicle regardless of bike or car. The Senegalese police charge 10 euros per passport, nobody else asked us for money.

If you want some brief entertainment, make the bridge guy wait for his money, he locked the barrier and was purple with rage by the time we agreed to pay. Sorry if our obstinacy makes it difficult for any future travellers, but I figured if we gave up and paid everything at the first request it wouldn't help either.

A note about insurance, the Carte Brune insurance is available at the cafe at the Diamma post and is valid from Senegal to Nigeria inclusive. We paid 42.5 euros per motorbike for 2 months cover.

Hope this is useful.

yes all good stuff thanks - we're about a week behind you, just about to leave Nouadhibou tomorrow morning and have a bit of sight seeing to do before heading to Diarma.

Take care and ride safe...

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The ONLY official payment to make when leaving Mauritania via Diama is the 4000CFA for the toll bridge. When I passed through in January the Mauritanian police specifically told me NOT to pay the customs officers their bribe! The Senegalese police and customs did not ask for anything. DO NOT PAY THESE PEOPLE, IT IS CORRUPTION!
Andy.

Hi Andy,

We were aware that the bridge toll was to be the only charge, but the Mauritanian police were one of the groups at the border that were charging money. We stalled for at least 2 hours on all payments on the Mauritanian side, and it was only the b*llsh!t communal tax that we could avoid.

On the Senegalese side it was also the police asking for 10 euros per passport, not the customs.

I speak some French, but perhaps not enough to avoid the corruption in this case. Does anyone who has been through recently perhaps have some advice on how to get across the border without paying? What do you say in these instances to keep the bureacracy moving?

Is it just a case of stonewalling for hours, or do we need to brush up on our French. I have enough to explain that I don't think the tax is genuine, that they are corrupt, that the amount is too much and I won't pay. That wasn't enough last week though.

Cheers,
Dan

Hi Dan, I found that speaking no French was the best option! They seemed to get fed up pretty quickly then. I also told them that it was a serious offence in the UK to pay money to police/customs etc and that people go to prison for it and that was why I wouldn't pay

Andy.

Hello all,

It has been a while since I've been here but i've got some news on the diamma crossing:

The piste with a truck like ours is good until half way. There is construction going on and after there ist not so good anymore (slow going but not tricky)

At the end of the park is is a Gendarmerie post and a guy that says you have to pay for the park. We asked the gendarmerie guy if this is true and he sayd he did't want to get involved. After threats with the police and you will never get across the border we took the risk not paying up and went to the border. Here we had no problems about the park.

At the Douane we stamped the carnet and this costed us 10 euro or the same in Ogouyo. This was with a receipt and we couldn't go without paying up so we had to.

At the Police they stamped the pasports and then askes if we wanted to pay 10euro's and I sayd NO. So then I could go.

Then we crossed the Barrage and the man at the pole say pay 12000CFA but after some talking this went down to 4000CFA (and I had to promise not to tell anyone) and this is the amount that We have heard more so we payd for this

The police on the senegal side also wanted 10euros and I did not want to give him this. He replied "but you are my friend" and I sayd back "yes you are but I don't give all my friends 10 euros") and then I could go.

On the senegal side they didn't want to stamp the carnet and issued a Laisser passez. This costed us 5000CFA. I found out later that on the receipt is commercial. For tourism it should cost 2500CFA.(on the border gambia - senegal they did stamp the carnet for free)

The insurance is difficult. I've been talking for 2.5 hours and I earned 4euros and did not want to take the risk driving without. In total it was 155euros for 6 month for all carte brune countries for a big truck.

Hope this helpes

Henk Jan