Hi Andy,

We were aware that the bridge toll was to be the only charge, but the Mauritanian police were one of the groups at the border that were charging money. We stalled for at least 2 hours on all payments on the Mauritanian side, and it was only the b*llsh!t communal tax that we could avoid.

On the Senegalese side it was also the police asking for 10 euros per passport, not the customs.

I speak some French, but perhaps not enough to avoid the corruption in this case. Does anyone who has been through recently perhaps have some advice on how to get across the border without paying? What do you say in these instances to keep the bureacracy moving?

Is it just a case of stonewalling for hours, or do we need to brush up on our French. I have enough to explain that I don't think the tax is genuine, that they are corrupt, that the amount is too much and I won't pay. That wasn't enough last week though.

Cheers,
Dan

Hi Dan, I found that speaking no French was the best option! They seemed to get fed up pretty quickly then. I also told them that it was a serious offence in the UK to pay money to police/customs etc and that people go to prison for it and that was why I wouldn't pay

Andy.

Hello all,

It has been a while since I've been here but i've got some news on the diamma crossing:

The piste with a truck like ours is good until half way. There is construction going on and after there ist not so good anymore (slow going but not tricky)

At the end of the park is is a Gendarmerie post and a guy that says you have to pay for the park. We asked the gendarmerie guy if this is true and he sayd he did't want to get involved. After threats with the police and you will never get across the border we took the risk not paying up and went to the border. Here we had no problems about the park.

At the Douane we stamped the carnet and this costed us 10 euro or the same in Ogouyo. This was with a receipt and we couldn't go without paying up so we had to.

At the Police they stamped the pasports and then askes if we wanted to pay 10euro's and I sayd NO. So then I could go.

Then we crossed the Barrage and the man at the pole say pay 12000CFA but after some talking this went down to 4000CFA (and I had to promise not to tell anyone) and this is the amount that We have heard more so we payd for this

The police on the senegal side also wanted 10euros and I did not want to give him this. He replied "but you are my friend" and I sayd back "yes you are but I don't give all my friends 10 euros") and then I could go.

On the senegal side they didn't want to stamp the carnet and issued a Laisser passez. This costed us 5000CFA. I found out later that on the receipt is commercial. For tourism it should cost 2500CFA.(on the border gambia - senegal they did stamp the carnet for free)

The insurance is difficult. I've been talking for 2.5 hours and I earned 4euros and did not want to take the risk driving without. In total it was 155euros for 6 month for all carte brune countries for a big truck.

Hope this helpes

Henk Jan

Paul Gowen from the RAC told me today that Senegal no longer officially accepts Carnets. The President of the local motoring club that administered the carnet guarantees unfortunately died and the club collapsed. The authorities then instituted a laissez passer which is now required. If you manage to enter with only a Carnet you may have a problem leaving.
Clive

We didn't have any problems to exit Senegal. but it was not the main borderpost at kidira but in the south at Kedougou. We entered Mali in Kenieba and there they did not want to stamp the carnet and we had to buy a laisser passez for the outragous amount of 9400CFA and they did not want to let us go no matter what I was talking. We've waited for 2 hours and tried anything but nothing was possible.

I know of another couple that entered Nioro and the carnet was stamped without any questions asked.

hope this helpes

Henk Jan

Crossed from Senegal into Mauritania two days ago at the Diama crossing, at no point did I pay any charges apart from buying ten days of insurance for my KTM for ten euros, The park fee is correct at 1000 ouguiya (there is a sign stating this). The police always ask for 4000 ouguiya, but they never get heavy, just be polite smile alot, and say you dont have it. Going the other way there is a douane fee for the moto, passage de leziv or something like that, thats 5000 cfa (senegal side). the bridge fee and community fee, well they are definate no pays, although going in we did have to get the police as he refused to lift barrier, after a quick word with the police it soon went up, gave him some biscuits for his tea knowing i was returning soon.

Just got through today the Mauritanian-morocco border and on the way in i know several people who had a hard time, but i didnt maybe i was just lucky. On the way out it took about from 9 when it opened to 10.30 riding out morocco side, took a little longer as they had to phone rabat to get me 30 days grace on the moto. Again absolutely nothing to pay.

good luck, and i think the secret is cross early rather than late on in the day.

stu

Wanted to share a positive story for crossing at Diamma with visa obtained in Nouakchott! The Start of the Piste is now being tarred, but it's not tarred all the way. I skipped off at one point and rode on the old piste(for 500m) before getting back onto the prepared gravel road that was still un tarred.

Mauritania:
2000UM for the park entrance (receipt with 2000 printed on it)
500UM for the communal tax (hand written receipt)
Gendarme asked kindly for a "cadeau", but nothing further. The young Douane officer asked for 10€, refused to stamp. I asked to speak to the boss, who just waved me through, no issues. Police, no issues, very nice!

Bridge across the river, 4000CFA official receipt, hand written. No hustlers.

Senegal:
Police hassled for a few minutes for 10€, but gave up quite quickly
Douane guy was really nice, didn't ask for a bribe and even stamped my Carnet! No passevant required. (My friend who crossed just before me suspected that the more troublesome officer had just left on his arrival)

Douane and Gendarme stopped us on the way to St. Louis, checked the Carnet and a bit of paperwork. No issues, just a nice chat about Senegalese football players and a quick introduction to wolof
Policeman south of St Louis just waved us by: no "violations for wrongly indicating!"

All in all, a great day. Lady luck was on our side today?

Africa on a KTM690 Overland Ride | Cornwall to Cape Town