Ok guys, here's the latest from Brazza, and I'm sure bringing good news. There is no need to endure the horrors of either the Luozi or Point Noire route, for both bikes and cars, even though the main ferry is still down. I just helped a fellow overlander on his crossing by car (big Landrover) and got through it without too much of a hassle (or barely any at all, really).

Here's the deal: there is another ferry operating right now, which is, like I said, mostly hassle free on this side of the river. They've got three boats in dock, one of which goes to the other side everyday, except on Sundays, at 10 o'clock. No need showing up before 8 (they actually told me to show up at 8.30 when I'm crossing at the end of the week) as there will probably not be any other vehicles crossing and the paperwork is done quickly.

We were charged coming into the port (11.000 fCFA), which seemed to be legit (supposedly other travellers thought it wasn't, only to find themselves stopped by proper police on their way out - there actually is a port charge). We hitched up witch a fixer (or 'protocol') there, who showed up exactly where to go and when. You guys travelling on four wheels are screwed a bit, because they have to take the boat out to the other side of the port, where you can roll your truck on board. The ferry costs fCFA 75.000 for driver + car, and being the only car, moving the boat to get the vehicle on board is another 20.000. And that's ALL. No hidden charges there. So it'll be somewhat expensive (adding up to 106.000 fCFA), but I'm sure it'll beat the hassle of a Cabinda visa.

Now, I got some conflicting stories on bikes, but one thing's for sure: we're lucky here. We don't pay the 20.000, as we can get the bike on board where the boats are docked. The quotings I got for the ferry ranged between about 10.000 and 25.000 fCFA, everything included. So.. it'll be a fair price. I'll post on that when I've actually crossed next week.

Then a final note on paperwork; both the guy in the 4x4 and I actually got our Carnet stamped coming into Brazzaville (customs guy probably just trying to make a buck by attempting to charge us -in vain- for the stamp) - side note: he just stamped the top section, and didn't fill in or take out the slip . Customs at the port basically called this guy a bloody idiot, wrote over his stamps and made the carnet in order again. Again no hassle, just sympathy. So, try not to get your Carnet stamped coming into Brazza, and if you do anyway, don't worry.

Ok, for you guys coming down here: enjoy Brazza (it's a really pleasant city) and good travels!

Mike

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