Hi levelo,

It's been two weeks since your last post, so you are either taking a long break in Manaus or you have moved forward. Sorry for the long stretch without a reply. I was traveling in South America for 5 months; the wheels started rolling in central Peru on July 23rd and I finished the ride in late December. I didn't check this forum the whole time. Grant Johnson, forgive me

Yes, I rode BR 319 in mid-August. That is the statistically driest period of the dry season in that part of the Amazon according to the annual weather websites I reviewed. I traveled from south to north and encountered an hour or two of rain the first day and there was rain ahead of us the second day. Not too light, not too heavy.

By the afternoon of the first day, I was near Tapaua, about halfway from Porto Velho to Manaus where I met a Brazilian who had ridden BR 319 five times. We met where trucks lined up together waiting for a road crew to grade the road and make getting through a section of mud easier. At this point, the red clay mud stuck to my front tire, got jammed under the fender and the wheel would not turn until the fender was removed. With mud flying everywhere I rode on with a smile on my face. We waited for some time for the road crew and decided to take on the next muddy stretch. I'll never know if the road was graded or not.

There were about a dozen times when the rear tire of my motorcycle started to slide out from under me. I managed to recover each time. =) Motorcycle tires are considerably wider than a bicycle and it was tough going in what is supposed to be the height of dry season. Changes in annual weather patterns may be caused by global warming. Dunno.

Bottom line: Some sections of BR 319 are paved, but the vast majority of BR 319 is gravel or dirt...with lots of mud when it rains, even a little bit. Unless it means something special to you to ride BR 319, I recommend taking the ferry from Manaus to Porto Velho, if you are on a bicycle or a motorcycle. If you have the right tires and mud skills, then riding a motorcycle is an option...but it's not a walk in the park.

BOLIVIA
In 2013 I rode 2.5 hours north of La Paz on Route 3 to roll down the famous North Yungas Road (a.k.a. The Death Road of Bolivia.) There is a modern highway at least that far. I have no idea if the road falls apart further north. Know that the Google Maps car has only gone a few miles north of Coroico and hasn't captured any of the roads south of the Brazil/Bolivia frontier. Hmm, that might tell you the roads are bad or Google decided there isn't enough traffic to warrant sending a Google Maps car into northern Bolivia.
PS: I was wondering if you would have issues getting permission to ride through Waimiri-Atroari. I knew a guy who rode from Boa Vista to Manaus in 2012 and he mentioned later the restrictions. Glad it worked out for you.

__________________
Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride

Hi Peter, Hi everyone.

Thanks for posting.
Up-to-date information on BR 319 is pretty sketchy, and it's always nice to read a firsthand account of someone who's actually ridden it.
Well done !

I did take a very long break in and around Manaus.
I was beat after riding 2,300 kms since Cayenne, with just a few days off the bicycle here and there, plus I really enjoyed the town
I took the boat up the Rio Madeira as far as Humaita, then I rode to Porto Velho ( that's where I am ).
It would have meant something special to ride that damn track for sure, but I also knew that the probability of not being able to ride all the way was very, very high, even though I have the right gear and I think the necessary experience for this kind of challenge.
It's been ridden on pushbikes, but as fas as I know always in the dry season. Cycling it means a minimum of 10 days if everything goes well, considerably longer if it doesn't.
I enjoyed the boat ride a lot, as it gives you a sense of the magnitude of the Big Forest. Plus the pace is as slow as when I'm riding

I still don't know which route I am going to pick to make it down to the Pantanal region.
I have to decide here.
The easiest and shortest option is to stay in Brazil all the way. A good paved highway, big towns on the way ( Vilhena, Cuiaba, Campo Grande ), but I fear this might be a little boring, with no natural areas and plenty of soy and cattle farms, plus a fair amount of truck traffic.
The Bolivian option ( crossing at Guayaramerin, then Rurrenabaque, Trinidad, Santa Cruz ) is longer but it looks more promising with more forest and less people/development.
Only the first 500 kms are not paved, and it has me thinking twice about going for it.

Levelo.

Put yourself and bike on a bus for the first 500 km.
If the road turns out to be reasonable enough to ride, get off the bus.

__________________
Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride

Hey Levelo,

Keen to follow your trip and hear about the route you choose.

You mentioned the Pantanal as one of your long-range destinations. If you travel through Bolivia then I believe you will have no choice but to travel along the southern edge of the wetlands. I visited the southwest wetlands and stayed at the Pantanal Jungle Lodge in Passo do Lontra.

If seeing a jaguar is a big goal for you, I have been told you stand a better chance of seeing one in the northern section of the Pantanal. My guide said he worked in the north for a few years but didn't that the guides put out food for the jaguars and make the tourists happy.

North, south, or east, you are bound to see tons of wildlife in the Pantanal. I don't know if there are any self-guided tour options. I booked through an agency and got a good price for a dorm room, meals, truck tour, and river tours, plus other activities like floating in the river and piranha fishing (yes, in the same river.) I skipped the horseback riding option...

Looking forward to your update.

__________________
Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride

The Pantanal is not a budget destination no matter how you do it. I rode the northern and southern roads and had no trouble finding places to stay, although it was obvious people working the lodges weren't set up for walk-ins and didn't really know what to do with me.

Again, this was not cheap, and I probably could have saved money and seen a lot more had I organized via tour guides. A friend who went with kids (and a guided tour) saw multiple jaguars, along with other stuff that I missed out on.

As far as I remember, you can access either north or south ends of the road crossing the border from Bolivia. I have seen maps which show the roads connecting within the park, but barring major miracle that will probably never happen (and it's a long way around). I was there during dry season, but it was obvious that those roads would turn treacherous with even a little bit of rainfall.

Thanks for your input Peter & Markharf.

I'm in Guajara-Mirim, on the Rio Mamoré. Bolivia is across the muddy river

A good friend of mine who's good with satellite stuff assured me that most of the Guayaramerin-Rurrenabaque road has just been paved, so I decided to give it a go.

It hasn't been raining an awful lot, but when it does it's no joke. Well, at least it washes the sweat away

Saw lots of dead, flattened snakes on the road from Porto Velho, including an anaconda and a baby anteater...

Brazilians are on holidays and there are quite a few motorbikers on the road.

In a few weeks I hope I can cross back into Brazil at Corumba, and organize my stay in the Southern Pantanal from there, most likely through an agency.
If you have more leads & tips send them my way.

Levelo.

The Pantanal is not a budget destination? That depends on your budget. =)
I had a great experience for roughly $115 per day. The booking was made at the last minute. Not sure if the price was discounted to sell.

03 overnights at Pantanal Jungle Lodge in shared dorm;
03 breakfast, 03 lunch, 03 dinner;
horseback ride, night motor boat tour, motor boat tour, paddle canoe tour, piranha fishing, safari on the park road with nature walking, air-tube / swimming tour; English Speaking guide in Pantanal

Eco Adventures Travel
BUZINHANI E BUZINHANI LTDA - ME - CNPJ: 07.533.294/0001-66
Rua Apiacas, 313 - Vila Rica
Campo Grande - MS - CEP: 79022-250
Telefone: (67) 3356-4138
Website: www.ecoadventures.com.br - E-mail: contato@ecoadventures.com.br

Without a guide and a boat, you'll see some wildlife on the road or if you can find the places to walk/hike. The tours I was on delivered a lot of wildlife and info about what we were seeing.

__________________
Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride

Yes, as I said: "...this was not cheap, and I probably could have saved money and seen a lot more had I organized via tour guides."

My budget (14 years ago) was less than $100/day including fuel, food, lodging, even . I spent more than this in the Pantanal (as I did on my Antarctic tour and a couple of other places). Your mileage, on the other hand, may vary.

I'm a shoestring traveler, my budget is about $25/day.
That means a lot of free/wild camping and cheap hotels whenever I have to or feel the need

But I understand the fact that to be able to go deep in the jungle one needs guidance and has to pay for it, so I splurge once in a while.
Just like I did when I was crossing Africa and I wanted to see game in some of the National Parks.

In Manaus I booked myself on a 4 day tour : 2 nights at a lodge and 1 at a camp in the forest, all meals included and guides at our disposal.
A lot of time was spent on the river on a motorboat.
I paid $320, which I think is really fair, considering the overall good quality of the service.

This morning I loaded the bicycle on a small passenger boat and entered Bolivia.
I have no idea how one would do it with a heavy motorbike.
Guayaramerin is a busy town.
Immigration was easy at both ends ( French passport ). I was given 90 days. They need 2 photocopies of your passport, which you can do at a small shop across their tiny office.
Money changers have officially set up shop right at the landing and their rates are very good ( BOB 7.30 for USD 1 ).

I asked the cab drivers about the road to Riberalta/Rurrenabaque. It's not completely paved but it should be OK.


L.

Hello,

Riberalta to Rurrenabaque is paved all the way ( minus the last 5 kms out of Rib. and into Rurr. ). The tarmac is brand new, courtesy of the Chinese company that's been busy pouring it.
It is still a very, very quiet road though, sometimes less than a truck/car per hour
People are waiting for a bridge to be built on the Mamore River so that visitors/freight from Brazil can come into the country seamlessly.
I slept in small comunidades every night, no problem at all.
Saw caimans, jabirus and tons of capybaras the last couple of days.
Lots of young gringos descending from the Andes in Rurrenabaque but the vibes are good.

Levelo.

Thanks for the update on road improvements through north-western Bolivia. Many riders travel to La Paz and noddle around central Bolivia, then travel south to the Salar de Uyuni. Perhaps even more travelers will visit the Madidi National Park knowing the roads are less challenging.

__________________
Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride

Hi everyone,

Here are further updates on the roads in Eastern Bolivia.

- Rurrenabaque to Trinidad all paved save for a 10 km stretch around Puerto Ganadero where one takes the barge across Rio Mamoré. Note that I ferried during a very heavy downpour and that the bank on the Trinidad side of the river is steep, muddy and slippery : the heavy truck that was on the barge with me couldn't make it up, hence preventing all other vehicles from either embarking or disembarking
- Trinidad to San Ramon ( 180 kms short of Santa Cruz ) also all paved.
- The Chiquitania route through San Xavier, Concepcion, San Ignacio to San Rafael is also paved. A great hilly route with nice villages and very, very little traffic.
- San Rafael to San José de Chiquitos is 130 kms, only the first 40 are paved, the rest is dirt but several contractors are busy improving/paving it so it's only a matter of time before it's done. In the meantime it is an impossibly dusty stretch.
- San José to Corumba all paved. Chochis is a great place to unwind for a few days ( it's about 100 kms south of San José ) with a great location at the foot of a tall cliff, great short hikes, waterfalls and a beautiful sanctuary. Aguas Calientes, another 70 kms further southeast, is also a nice place with a hot lagoon and a great campsite.

Immigration is straightforward on both sides but the line of people waiting was already long when I showed up before 8 a.m on the Bolivian side.

From Corumba I took the 120 km dirt track across the southern Pantanal called Estrada do Parque. The heat was massive ( late February ) and the mosquitoes made my life miserable.
I checked a couple of fazendas/lodges along the way, including the Jungle Lodge in Passo do Lontra, but the prices have gone up and I ended up being priced out ( it is around $150/day all inclusive with guided tours ).
No big deal, I found a couple of cheaper hotels local fishermen use and I was able to see a lot of wildlife from the track

I was also singled out and grilled by the Brazilian Drug Border Patrol while on that road and these guys were pretty unfriendly ( I suppose it's their job ).
As if an overloaded sweaty cyclist would dare to carry the white stuff across these bug infested marshes

Happy trails.

L.

Hi Levelo,

Welcome to Brazil! Sorry to hear the anti-narcotic patrol was hard on you. The area around borders are different than once you get into a country.
Traffic to and from Bolivia can be tricky. Some non-Peruvian riders with Peruvian-plated motorcycles have been turned back when trying to enter Bolivia. Why? A lot of stolen motorcycles get spirited into Bolivia. I saw a police compound filled with motorcycles in Cobija, Bolivia (across the river from Brasileia, Brazil.) No doubt the bikes had been stolen...

It is not clear to me why the prices you were quoted for the Jungle Lodge were higher. I used a booking agent and paid ~$107 (USD) per night for three nights, with meals and daily tours. Perhaps I was there in the low season? Mid-October. Glad you got to see wildlife all the same.

The bugs get bad anywhere near wetlands. I was riding into dusk when headed to the Pantanal and thought it was starting to rain because I was hearing pops and snaps on my helmet. It turns out the insects come out in mass as the sun gets near the horizon. I had to stop after a while to clear my face shield because I could see through the bug splatter combined with the headlights of oncoming cars.

Are you headed south? If yes, enjoy a visit to a cave in Bonito. Consider taking a swimming float down one of the super clear streams. It's like being in an aquarium.

If you head east, you'll pass through lots of farmlands. I saw huge industrial plants that I assume are turning grain into ethanol.

You already traveled in the northwest of Brazil. The good times will continue. The people are arguably the friendliest and most laid-back in South America. You will find lots of buffet-style dining in Brazil. Usually, you pay by the weight of the food selected. In Brazil, I stayed in my share of budget places and a few mid-priced hotels. Breakfast is almost always included and where the rate is higher, the breakfast can be off the charts. Brazilians like to eat cake for breakfast, so they put out several kinds. If you don't see eggs set out, then ask. It's common to see free coffee in gas stations.

Have fun!

__________________
Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride

Hi Peter,

When ( what year ) were you in the Pantanal ?

I have just left Bonito. I spent a few days there.
Nice, relaxing little town, and some of the rivers are amazing indeed !
I also enjoyed the relatively mountainous terrain, something I haven't had much of since I started from French Guiana 4 months ago.

I am heading south to Asuncion, Paraguay, then east to Iguazu and back to the very south of Brazil ( Parana, Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul ).

It is still very hot and humid, with thunderstorms most days.
On a regular day I drink 6 to 8 liters of water, and sometimes even more !
When I stay in hotels that provide breakfasts ( it is rare for me ) I usually miss them since I hit the road before dawn.
I do enjoy the free coffee in the main gas stations, though

There are lots of folks on motorbikes in Brazil, especially on the weekends when groups from the big cities get together and ride.
People traveling by bicycle, on the other hand, are a rarity.

L.

Hi Levelo,

I visited the Pantanal in October 2023. In truth, my total wetlands experience was riding through swarms of bugs as sunset approached and a few days at the Jungle Lodge. Leaving in the late morning, I arrived in Bonito before sunset. Probably a lot faster than bicycle travel. I crossed Paraguay only stopping to try to buy tires at China Shopping (they don't sell tires) and to sleep one night halfway to Asunción.

The visit to Paraguay was sadly a checkbox event. It was the only country in South America that I hadn’t ridden or stepped foot into. Entering from Brazil, I crossed* Paraguay in two days and stayed two nights in Asunción. I love to go to contemporary art museums, which are in short supply in Asunción. The historic sites and museums didn't draw me in, as well as the available cathedrals. Saw the Cerro Lambaré monument, took pictures of the wild and crazy World Trade Building, and had dinner at an eat-meat until-you-burst restaurant.*In fact, I didn't stuff myself.*

Sounds like you won't be riding the Paraguayan Chaco. It is said to be extremely hot and thinly populated. I met a French rider in Clorinda,
Argentina, just south of Asunción, who had been riding the Chaco and turned back because it was unbearably hot.

Iguazú Falls is amazing. If you can only visit one side, I recommend the Argentine.

__________________
Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride