This lot from June 2016 Bonneville trip:

Asilah. Hotel Sahara. bed 100dh. Small, basic, old-fashioned. Nice. Shared wc.

Touama Hôtel Dar Oudar 150dh after haggling. Nice lamb chops 70dh. Ok room. Wifi. V good brek 25dh.

Agdz. Ali’s house 150dh bed on floor supper n brek, but disgusting Ali was v drunk and I left without brek; didn't want his hungover company

Tinghir camped outside an unfinished house which turned out to be occupied and Idris gave me supper n brek out of hospitality. Free of course.

Imilchil Maison d'Hôte 150dh incl supper n brek lovely grub esp nice thick rustic bread hard day riding and sore knee after fall so appreciated really warm room in cold town. Excellent.

Tazenakht Hôtel Taghadoute bnb 130dh after haggling. Not friendly but they let me keep motorbike in restauarant. Busy outside, Charmless place.

Tahanaout S.of Marrakech ApartHotel Nzaha 510dh bed only. v posh apartment clean and nice n swimming pool all to myself. Not too snotty considering high class place.

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This lot from the Himalayan trip in April 2019:

Motel Delta Kert on N16 west of Nador, 300dh bed unfriendly dull windy building, 113dh supper v good, 23dh brek v good

Azrou. Hotel Fath. 200dh unfriendly, dirty, smelly drain in shower no food. A dump.

Hotel Bougafer, Midelt 200dh bnb friendly, nice place big brek. Nice.


2019 April 20. Er-Rich. Tislit Hotel. Central. V cheap. Friendly reception. No garage but night guard covered my bike seat from the rain. Café downstairs is well frequented by locals, which I like. En suite. No tv. WiFi ok. Excellent value.

Morrocan Family Home,!, Merzouga 80dh usual tourist trap but v cheap, free room upgrade, nice room, but boss hassled me on WhatsApp for ages afterwards. Surprising value.

Auberge Lac Maider Tafraout 300dh supper n brek incl. v good food, v nice room

Zagora Riad Dar Zaouia 250dh bnb room ok, had to repair constantly running cistern, Owner nice friendly laidback brek excellent

Boumalne Dades. Hotel Tazarit 150dh room ok, food ok, brek ok. Lively n tacky. My kind of place.

Hotel Milano, Guercif 200dh clean boring European standard but soulless

Nador. Hotel Apartments Dawlize 300dh for a big multi-room apartment in let-go condition. Not too central. Massive place. Weird. Nearly empty.

Maison La Belle Etoile
100 Les Gorges de Todgha Road
Gorges de Todra, Tinerhir 45800
Morocco




didn't intend to stay here, but met some Croatian motorcyclists in a cafe in Tinghir who were staying here and we took their recommendation to stay here as well. I'm glad we did, and we ended up staying here a second day because we loved the area and hotel so much.

Our room looked out over the lush green gardens the villagers are tending next to the river, and there is a commanding view from the terrace of this little river valley tucked away in the folds of the mountains before the entrance to the Todra Gorges. It is not a "luxury" hotel as one finds in Marrakesh or Fez, etc., but then that is definitely not what we wanted. Instead, we had a cozy, charming, family-owned guesthouse practically to ourselves and kind hosts in a beautiful setting. We couldn't have asked for more.

The two brothers who run La Belle Etoile were genuinely warm and hospitable, willing to do whatever they could to make sure we were happy, and they charged us a fair rate. They waived cost of tea and coffee and stuff like that, they considered us guests in their home. They also advised us on where to eat to be sure that we weren't going to be overcharged.

We found La Belle Etoile to be an ideal staging spot for not only exploring the twisting roads and soaring cliffs of the gorges, but also to wander the semi-abandoned kasbah on the other side of the river or trek the mountains around the valley. We met a German man arriving to the kasbah after a long hike and recommended the auberge to him as well. He ended up staying the night on our recommendation as well.

We were served an enormous breakfast on the rooftop terrace in the morning and took mint tea, made with fresh mint from the garden, on the balcony overlooking the road. Also, the water here is wood-fired. This may have been the hottest shower I've ever had in Morocco.

We (and the Croatians) were able to securely store our bikes in a locked garage three houses down overnight.


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https://www.booking.com/hotel/ma/el-andalous.html Hotel El Andalous in Hermitage area [of Marrakech] (10 mins walk from main square) isnt bad but get a room on higher floors to avoid noise from evening "traditional entertainment" in the bar (sounds like Helwan province when the Paras are out playing). Carpark is guarded.
Its reasonable, not brilliant. Handy access for town.

New hotel has opened at Tanger Med Port, could be useful for late night arrivals or early departures

https://www.onomohotel.com/en/hotel/...tel-tanger-med

2016 - Merzouga

Nice hotel at the far end in Merzouga, can't remember the name but it's the last one on the right, before the Dunes..

Cheap rates
Nice swimming pool, even if it was too cold in December
Good Tajin
Direct access / View to the Dunes
Safe for bikes
Friendly staff
Fresh s!

December 2019

Chefchaouen - Tried staying at Al Khalifa, but it was fully booked. So I ended up staying at Hotel Loubar. I suppose it can be a decent hotel during peak season, but I did not enjoy my stay at all winter time. Expensive (400 MAD) and limited hot water and poor internet connection. Main gate is locked at night, so bike is safe inside.

Ain Leuh - Hotel Ain Leuh: I only ended up staying in this town out of desperation, as snow had closed all roads to Midelt and it was getting late. Hotel was nothing special, but for 200 MAD you get a room, breakfast, and bike parking inside their gates. Individual hot water boilers in rooms, which was nice. Clean rooms (including showers) and friendly service!

Midelt - Ksar Timnay: I guess this is a usual overlander spot. 390 MAD got me a good size room, built-in hotwater radiators for heat, and breakfast included. Menu otherwise is really expensive (80+ MAD per meal) compared to the rest of the country. Gates are locked overnight.

Tamtetoucht (near Les Gorges du Todra) - Auberge Baddou (300MAD): Managed to haggle the price down from 500MAD/night (with breakfast). Nice auberge with a pool and clean facilities. It looks relatively new. Gates are locked up each night, so bikes are safe. Would definitely recommend for 300MAD.

Alnif - Hotel Palmiers (200MAD): As is the case with most hotels outside of major cities during low season in Morocco, lights and heating is turned off and you'll most likely find yourself to be the only guest. Clean rooms with great breakfast. Bike is safe inside the locked parking lot.

Fes - Hotel Royal Urban Concept (324MAD): Brand new hotel with all the modern amenities. Sparkling clean rooms and a solid breakfast. No parking on premises. I paid 20MAD for a guy outside to watch the bike overnight.

SIDI IFINI HOTEL BEL VIEW GREAT !

Nov2019 Maroc-Maur-Senegal Trip R.E. Himalayan

Selouane, Taourirt Boucetta. Chambre Yasmin...Ferry from Motril-Nador (great way to cross) late arriving so I'd booked this room in Mohammed's house online. Clean, attached toilet. expensive at 30€ but the family was friendly and I needed an easy place.

Figuig. Hotel El Malyas, cheap because hotel under renovation. Basic, bucket water in toilet/shower down the hall. Rough.

Bouarfa. Hotel El Ain Zerga, Very friendly lady boss gave me free tea and msemn, just cos she was nice. Clean, cheap, toilet in hallway. Nice.

Er Rich. Hotel Isli.Because my favourite hotel was getting fixed up. Cheap. Inside bog. So-so.

Alnif hotel La Gazelle du Sud. Clean, busy caff on ground floor w everyone watching the football. Room smart as new-ish but not well cleaned.

Ouarzazate Hotel Amsterdam. Smart, modern, friendly, with use of next door garage for the bike. Big town hotel not my usual cheapo but I'd had three nights camping so it was good. 250dh bnb.

Taluouine. Hotel Kasba. 40dh, smelt of mutton, a primitive small box to sleep in but attached caff friendly and guy gave me fresh starched sheers to protect me from the rest of the bed.

Tafraoute. Hotel Tifaouine, v nice stylish place. I haggled a good price. The room was freezing but had a clever aircon which refigerated the outdoors to heat the room, which worked fine. Attached posh toilet drains smelled and flushing and stuffing orifices with wet bogpaper failed to contain smell. Posh, good value. Bike in courtyard overnight.

Sidi Ifni. Hotel Bellevue. Ok. Good value. Nice breakfast. Clean and quiet and no yoof backpackers.

El Ouatia or Tan-Tan plage. Hotel Marin, grubby dive, smelly.

Tarfaya. Hotel Casamar clean, new very empty and a local acquired me a room for 50dh. Characterless but friendly enough.

Boujdour. Hotel Taiba 150dh, ok, clean. Smartass kid demanded money for having looked after my bike all night which he hadn't so I told him to ram it.

Dakhla. Hotel Erraha, huge suite for 200dh but awful banging noise for ages as work ongoing next door. Clean and empty. Bike in garage overnight.

Bir Gandouz Hotel Petrol Station, not the nice looking one everyone else goes to. It was ok, cheap. Toilet in hall, real hot water in shower.

Down to Senegal and back again.

Looked for place just over the border into Maroc. Got bogged down in soft sand then noticed signs warning of LAND MINES...after about an hour managed to get the bike vertical again, by digging mini trenches for the wheels to fall into, then out without any detonations....very happy to get to ...
Bir Gandouz Hotel Petrol Station again, late arriving so room grub and more expensive, but shower still hot.

Dakhla. Hotel Playa Imperial. Excellent, clean and cheap and friendly. Bike on the street nearby but not a rough area. No probs.

Boujdour Hotel El Qods. Basic. Nice guy. Spoke some English. 70dh. Shared bog but clean.

Tarfaya. Got 50dh room in Hotel Casamar, as before, good place.

Guelmim. I liked this town, nice to get back to mountains of Maroc again Hotel El Qods, popular, clean, cheap. 60dh.

Imi n tanoute. Hotel Amane another basic cheapo, cold place. Room clean. Good caff under hotel. Friendly. Bike behind bars overnight. 40dh.

Mohammedia. Hotel Fedala - what a place, lovely oldy-styly over-the-top with antiques all over the place. big, popular w Moroccans because it's stylish. Friendly reception and very correct snooty waiters. 400dh.

Nador Ferry, air mattress on the floor, in my four seasons sleeping bag, no hassle from ferry staff, slept well until Spanish coast in sight at Motril, well rested. There's something to be said for a long slow ferry crossing on a nearly empty ferry.

Not camping but I’ve twice stayed at Riad Ibn Khaldoun [Fes] and used the nearby staffed car park.
All good.

Camping hotel Ameline
It's a bit out of town but has shade, rooms and a pool. Well worth the 30 km to Gorges ait Mansou and a walk to the Pierres Bleus.
Cheers
B

Lovely little auberge Chez Saadia and Mustafa, over looking the mountains. Dinner bed and Breakfast 400 dhs for 2. Sign at top of littltle track above the town.
Plenty of space for bikes, no big rigs
Bruce

An update regarding Rekkam in Boudnib, it’s still here and Francois and his wife/partner & new baby boy are superb hosts.

We arrived quite late last night after calling 1st (11.30pm ) after a unplanned trip down the Piste de col de Belkasum which caught us off guard and Francois stayed up to great us.

Today is an unplanned field repair to the Landy’s manifold and we’ve been given an area to use, served tea and invited to dinner this evening with the only other guests on site.

Hot showers, clean toilets and huts to sleep in ( we take comfort when it’s offered! )

Recommended

I can confirm that both campsites in Moulay Bousselham have closed permanently. They’ve been run into the ground over recent years.

Camping Echrigui in Asilah is hanging on. Great location but needs money spending on the sanitaires and a general tidy up. Have given the guardian the phone numbers for Nick Knowles and Charlie Dimmock.

Happy trails,

Peter

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Chez Ali in Zagora opposite Iriki garage…they work on commission but for 600d including evening meal & breakfast it’s a good room with hit n miss plumbing but still worth it imho.


Riad Soleil bleu Bed & Breakfast in Boulmane Dades

Room, dinner & breakfast for 600d. Food was good, room was very good and showers perfect

+212 650-499876
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HjWZBB4xbY4XFXi27?g_st=i

If you're ever passing through Foum Sguid, Hotel Bab Rimal is a nice option.

Amezrou, route de Zagora, Foum Zguid 84500, Morocco

+212 661-555369
http://www.babrimal.com/

In April 2022, I paid £48 Bed and Brekfast which was a buffet, so I was able to drink as much coffee as I wanted and load up with fruit for lunch as well.

I had ridden all the way from Marrakech so wanted somewhere nice to stay before I headed onto the Lac Iriqi & Erg Chegga pistes.

The hotel is made up of mumerous earthen huts and cabins which could probably host 100 people.

The owner, Bari has a SWM 250 that he rides the pistes with so has good local knowledge. His brother runs a camp in the Erg and offers a discount for overnight stays if you have a light enough moto to make it through the miles of sand/fesh fesh.

The hotel has a large secure car park although, I'm not sure if it guarded but all vehicles are out of sight from the road.

Dinner was extra but was probably the best I've had outside Chefchaouen. No , probably because it was during Ramadan, also had to wait for the staff to eat first...

Lovely large swimming pool, sunrise & sunsets due to the east/west nature of the valley.

Hotel was quiet with only a few french tourists staying one night.

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