I decided to post also in HU about my South America adventure. If you want to see how it all started please visit my webpage Sauerkraut & Tofuwurst

The story line...
A long time ago in May2013 a Finnish/German couple started together with their three dogs to ride around the world on their motorbikes. They rode together about 70000km through 38 countries across 4 continents. Tragedy happened when Hertta died late 2014 in the US. A major turning point was Costa Rica where Skippy decided to release Lyra and Ulpu from their anxiety of traveling in the sidecar. Instead we would get a car for the girls in Colombia and they could go on their own. Consequently Skippy sold her Suzi in Costa Rica. Wolfi did not want to go alone and so Peto joined as a travel companion for him. The journey continued for a little while with all being packed and loaded onto the sidecar. In Colombia we found a car for Skippy and Lyra & Ulpu. However a short while later we admitted that Lyra's travel days seemed to be over. Skippy sold the car and went back to Europe.
Wolfi & Peto continue with the sidecar through South America. On this blog and channel you will be able to follow Wolfi & Peto on their adventure, the up's and down's and how they manage now on their own without their cook, without Skippy, Lyra and Ulpu as travel companions.

Stay tuned for the stuff

It was time for Skippy and the girls to leave Colombia. We have traveled a lot but never ever had such trouble. Skippy was devastated and I am still missing words to explain what happened. See for yourself...



If you want to leave Colombia with your pet by plane then you must obtain an export permission from ICA for your pet. This also applies in case you owned your pet before you enter Colombia.

ICA office is in Bogota (I am not sure where else). This was the case with Avianca, maybe other airlines are less strict.

That was one of the easiest, smoothest, cheapest and fastest border crossing for a long long time. No fees, no trouble with the dog, no "helpers" and the customs officer at the Ecuador side even spoke some English. Despite other travel reports, there was no need for any vehicle insurance. Welcome to Ecuador!

Finally I crossed the equator with my bike. One down in my bucket list and many more to go...

Hanging in Riobamba and making new plans for the future.

There I was - somewhat stuck in Ecuador. The big question is what I will do next after I realized that my great plan was rubbish.

Up and down and up and down. Riding through the Andes on my way to Machu Picchu.

Pets are not allowed on the trains to Machu Picchu neither in Machu Picchu itself. I found two ways to visit Machu Picchu while traveling with a dog. Ollantaytambo had several veg-friendly restaurants and I could have a nice hike with Peto.

The only reason I went to Cusco was the fact that there are three vegan restaurants and the food was fantastic.

How am I doing? Being miserable? Party party party? Here come the secrets...

There is no entry fee for EU-citizens into Bolivia, but what about the bike and the corrupt officers? And what about Peto?

The track

About 3500km, Total Ascent 47161m, Total Descent 44155m

The tracks and waypoints can be found here in gdb and in gpx format.

Accommodations (for one person, 100sol≈27EUR):

San Ignacio - Hotel Zumbilla
Type: Room with single bed
Costs: 20sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in garage besides the hotel
Contact:
GPS: S5.14505° W79.00707°
Comment: hot shower, TV, no Wifi, no shower curtain, not sure about the name

Jaen - Hotel Imperial Palace
Type: Room with one bed
Costs: 40sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in garage
Contact: Av. Pakamuros 828, 076-431169, 947895195
GPS: S5.70820° W78.80307°
Comment: hot shower, TV, very slow Wifi, fan, other rooms with more space and/or A/C cost more.


Cutervo - Hotel Megadi
Type: Room with one bed
Costs: 30sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in garage
Contact:
GPS: S6.38299° W78.81633°
Comment: hot shower, TV, fast Wifi in hallway,

Cajamarca - Hotel Cuenca
Type: Room with one bed
Costs: 35sol (50sol for double)
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in garage
Contact: 076-313002, 976885856, 993482604, El Inca #511, hostalcuenca@hotmail.com
GPS: S7.15861° W78.50937°
Comment: dungeon, hot shower, TV, Wifi,

Huamachuco - Hotel Dubai
Type: Room with one bed
Costs: 35sol (50sol for double)
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in garage
Contact: Av. 10 de Julio #222, 991122268, RPM#959653697
GPS: S7.81766° W78.04337°
Comment: dungeon, electric shower head, TV, slow Wifi,

Santiago de Chuco - Hotel Restaurant Yordy
Type: Room with one big bed
Costs: 30sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured but a few blocks away (5sol /night) (S8.14341° W78.17183°),
Contact: Miguel Grau No 1421 - Tomas Ganoza No 706
GPS: S8.14573° W78.17305°
Comment: window, hot shower, TV, no Wifi

Tauca - Hospedaja Santo Domingo
Type: Room with one big bed
Costs: 20sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: Across the central plaza at the church. It was free and locked during the night.
Contact:
GPS: S8.46980° W78.03833°
Comment: dirty, raw walls, window, electric shower head, TV, no Wifi

Chuquicara - "Rooms"
Type: Room with one big bed
Costs: 20sol (first they wanted 30sol)
Dogs: free
Bike parking: in front of room
Contact:
GPS: S8.65494° W78.23670°
Comment: dirty, window, cold shower (well it was hot), sandflies, water extremely dirty (from river), no toilet paper and no towel (lady got bitchy and said it is not included in 20sol),

Caraz - Hotel Luchita
Type: Room with a single bed
Costs: 30sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: half a block away in somebody's home
Contact: 043-391569, Jr. Pumacahua 2do. piso
GPS: S9.04520° W77.81049°
Comment: cleanish, decent, windows, hot shower, good Wifi, TV, (felt like luxury hotel compared to the last shithole

Huaraz - Hostal Quilla Star
Type: Room (martimonial bed, single occupancy)
Costs: 35sol
Dogs: free, but had some trouble to get Peto in.
Bike parking: 3 blocks away and it costs 5sol/night
Contact: Av. Centenario No 571 - Independencia, 043-422320
GPS: S9.51920° W77.52996°
Comment: cleanish, bathroom window, hot shower, slow Wifi, TV. Basically three hotels denied to host pets. This last one only allowed after some discussion. The other hotel which was quickly saying ok was the Real Hotel Huascaran but the prices were 90sol for a single and 120sol for a matrimonial.

Huallanco - Hotel Nancy
Type: Room (martimonial bed, single occupancy)
Costs: 25sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: free in backyard
Contact:
GPS: S9.89923° W76.94227°
Comment: cleanish, window, hot shower, no Wifi, TV.

Huanuco - Hotel Tito's
Type: Room (martimonial bed, single occupancy), shared bathroom
Costs: 35sol
Dogs: free after some discussion and the fact that Peto is a small dog.
Bike parking: free in garage
Contact: Av. Universitaria No 1348, Cayhuayana Alta Huanuco, Huanuco, 515123
GPS: S9.95643° W76.24843°
Comment: window, electric shower head, no Wifi, TV, balcony, they seem to have another hotel in the centro. There are about 10 hostal nearby this one.

La Oroya - Hostal Nuevo Pablo
Type: Room (martimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 30sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured garage nearby (5sol)
Contact:
GPS: S11.52048° W75.90153°
Comment: window, hot shower, good Wifi, TV,

Lima - Affirmate Camera
Type: Room (martimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 20USD
Dogs: free
Bike parking: garage in the house
Contact: booking.com
GPS: S11.94857° W77.08665°
Comment: window, hot shower, Wifi, no reception! (looks like a private house)

Review booking.com
+
I stayed there for three nights/days to get some stuff organized in Lima. Pets are for free and private parking where the garage was in the house. The owner was very friendly and helped me fixing a puncture in my tire. The internet was good speed especially in the hallway. I could use the fridge. The room was very hot and later during the first day the owner brought a fan. The room was big and the bed was huge - very comfortable. The place felt more like a private place than a hotel since there was no reception and I got the keys to get in and out by myself which was good. Besides the issue with the water (I noted it was fixed when I left), it was a nice stay. The neighborhood looks average to me, plenty of kids playing in the streets in the evening. There is a Tottu's supermercado a few blocks down the road.

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The room (the one with the Jacuzzi) was pretty hot. Other rooms do not even have a window towards the outside. On the first day I wanted to test the Jacuzzi but there came no hot water as the hot water seems to come only around 6PM. The next day there came no water at all, after complaining there came only warm/hot water and no cold water. Anyway the flow was so little that the Jacuzzi would have taken hours to fill up (normal fill time is 60min). In the end I could not use the Jacuzzi.

Ica - Hotel Villa Carino
Type: Room (matrimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 40sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: garage in the house
Contact: Av. Los Maestros urb. divino Maestro B-40, Ica, 227495, 956991334, hvillacarino@hotmail.com
GPS: S14.07830° W75.73761°
Comment: window, hot shower, good Wifi, TV,

Nasca - Hospedaje Huerto de mi Amada
Type: Room (single bed), private bathroom
Costs: 30sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: garage in the backyard
Contact:
GPS: S14.82783° W74.94622°
Comment: electric shower head, Wifi, TV

Puquio - Hostal Los Andes
Type: Room (single bed), private bathroom
Costs: 40sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: garage in the house
Contact: Jr. 9 de Diciembre 286, Puquio, Ayacucho, 066-452323
GPS: S14.69528° W74.12404°
Comment: window, hot shower, no Wifi, TV,

Abancay - Hotel El Peregrino Apart Hotel
Type: Room (matrimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 90sol
Dogs: free, Peto was ok after the receptionist called the manager
Bike parking: secured in backyard
Contact: Andres Avelino Caceres 390, 083-502610
GPS: S13.63418° W72.87558°
Comment: Luxury hotel!, bedroom with separated kitchen/living room, window, hot shower, good Wifi, TV, kitchenette with micro, fridge, breakfast, helpful staff

Ollantaytambo - Hostal Las Portadas
Type: Room (matrimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 25sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in backyard
Contact: Calle Principal S/N, Cel 984620989, 064-204008
GPS: S13.25906° W72.26200°
Comment: window, hot shower, Wifi (was switched off during night), TV, helpful staff

Cusco - Inkita Boutique Guesthouse
Type: Room (matrimonial bed, single occupancy), shared bathroom
Costs: 13USD
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in backyard
Contact: booking.com (no reception, private house)
GPS: S13.52500° W71.90044°
Comment: beautiful view, outside Cusco, peaceful, secure, hot shower, Wifi, TV, helpful staff

Booking review
+
The place is almost idyllic and 8km away from Cusco center (taxi takes 15min and costs about 12sol) thus ideal for folks like me who loves to walk with the dog. Plenty of green around and its a delight to have a walk in the neighborhood. Dogs are for free even though the owner might not allow your dog inside the room (at least she hesitated to allow my dog into the room or it was a language misunderstanding). Parking on the lawn inside the yard. very nice garden to sit, relax and enjoy the great view over Cusco. The big rooms are absolute fantastic and are really worth the money. The tiny one (which I had in the 2nd night) is about average. Wifi was fast. There was drinking water available in the kitchen. I had a small medical issue and the owner was so kind to find out an English speaking doctor who was on duty on Saturday.

-
The upper security gate was closed in the evening and the taxi had to take the lower one (if you come with your own vehicle or the taxi does not know it you have to walk). I did not get a key to the property door so I had to knock on the main door and wait for the mercy of the owner to open. I had booked a twin room (25m2) but it was still occupied. So I got in the first night a big room (25m2) with private bathroom (which was nice) but in the 2nd night a very small, hot room (12m2) without proper air circulation. I have slept in smaller rooms but this room was far below my expectations compared to what I had booked! Shared toilet was not cleaned, had no toilet paper and there came no water in the shower. On the second evening I tried to get out to have an evening walk but the door was locked and bolted thus I could not get out by myself.

Puno - Hostal Inka Tours
Type: Room (matrimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 45sol
Dogs: free (after some discussion and I told them that I will stay two nights)
Bike parking: in garage
Contact:
GPS: S15.84469° W70.01783°
Comment: near Lake Titicaca, hot shower, Wifi, TV, no drinking water

A smooth ride from Copacabana to another traffic nightmare big city - La Paz.


More info on the bike insurance:
I got the contact data from http://www.smboilerworks.com/
Name: Seguros Illimani
GPS: S16.49903, W068.13338
Address: Loayza No 233 Edif Mcal de Ayacucho (this is the name of the building) Floor 10
You need copy of: passport, vehicle title, Bolivia import paper.
I paid 100USD for 3 months and it covers: Bolivia, Chile, Argentine, Brazi and Paraguay (the others paid 160USD for 5 months). It could also cover Peru if wanted.

Here I was - in La Paz - getting ready to ride the world's most dangerous road. How did I manage with my sidecar?

The difference between cities is amazing but watch for yourself. I also found a vegetarian restaurant in Potosi in walking distance from my hostel. Watch for yourself...