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Ride Tales Post your ride reports for a weekend ride or around the world. Please make the first words of the title WHERE the ride is. Please do NOT just post a link to your site. For a link, see Get a Link.
Photo by Helmut Koch, Vivid sky with Northern Lights, Yukon, Canada

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Helmut Koch,
Camping under Northern Lights,
Yukon, Canada



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  #2746  
Old 2 Nov 2017
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When we went out to the bikes they were covered with frost and it was -1. We decided to wait a bit for it to warm up. We thus set out an hour late at 9 am and it was 2.5 degrees. We have 412 km to Nagqu Tibet!

Screen Shot 2017-09-27 at 18.32.15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

IMG_0088 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2130 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The road today is again in pretty bad shape and the number of trucks is insane. This is a real work out and probably some of the most intense all round days we have had. There is almost nowhere to stop. If you must stop on the verge you are taking your life in your hands.


Road to Lhasa-37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2157 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2243 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #2747  
Old 2 Nov 2017
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We hit the first check point of the day and this took about an hour. A lot of checking of paper work and searching the gear. Trevor had his Jetboil fuel canister confiscated. While we were checking Trevor noted his Nescafe jar had opened in the top box and he cleaned it out and took it off to get the worst out. About 10 km later he was just in front of us and the top box came crashing off…he did not notice. Dan picked it up and waited for the van. Top box that was born in China died in China!

FILE2194 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


FILE2202 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We did stop at the highest pass today at 5234 m, but did not stay long.

Road to Lhasa-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


Road to Lhasa-39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

IMG_0092 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #2748  
Old 6 Nov 2017
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your trip

I have followed your travels from day one. I am totally blown away from your adventures. Not sure where your final destinations will take you but will be following your progress and hoping for the best. Take care and safe journey.
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  #2749  
Old 19 Nov 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lectron View Post
I have followed your travels from day one. I am totally blown away from your adventures. Not sure where your final destinations will take you but will be following your progress and hoping for the best. Take care and safe journey.

Thanks so much! We are in Cambodia right now and plan to ship to Oz in early December!!! Cheers. S&D!
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  #2750  
Old 19 Nov 2017
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It was then down from there to Amdo after 276 km. We had crossed into Tibet, but there is no marker at least in English. The last 20 km it was raining and at times almost snowing. It was pouring when we got to the town, but by the time we made it to the far side it was sunny. The gas stations here you must show your ID card even to get into the station. There is a gate and a policeman checks ID. They saw us and let us in first and then asked for our DL and gladly sold us fuel…from a can. We had to wait a while for the guides as we knew there was a police check point at the end of town and so we heated up some noodle soups.

Road to Lhasa-47 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-48 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-46 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #2751  
Old 19 Nov 2017
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The sky is again looking black in our direction. While we were waiting at the police check there was huge dust storm and the fierce winds blew the black clouds away. We had some wet road, but no rain.

You descend from 4600 m at Ando, but rise again to 4863 over another pass. The descent continues to 4500 m at Nagqu. The number of truck in lines in both direction is mad. About 15 km from the town the road is totally destroyed and the trucks are jostling for position to avoid the deepest holes. We weaved in and out to keep us some speed to get over the biggest dips, which are death defying at a snail crawl.

FILE2263 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2288 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2305 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2312 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #2752  
Old 19 Nov 2017
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There is another police check 8 km from town and our guides were 45 min behind us because of the insane traffic. The police were very nice to us, asked us out of the line to park ahead, and invited us into the office with the coal burning stove to warm up and get out of the now brief rain shower. So happy we have the 20$ SIM cars as it has come in so handy to text the team as they are usually far behind us and for the police to call them. They made 3 call while we waited here as they to talk to Toni and Pam, which meant that once they showed up all they did was photocopy our Tibet permits and we were done in 5 min.

FILE2354 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The ride to the city was uneventful and we were into the hotel by 6. Orvar is again not well but it seems he has what I had in Mongolia more of a low salt issue than altitude. Trevor was initially ok and came down for dinner and then was sick again. He has his O2 bag and we refilled it. Neither has now eaten all day. The plan is to get an early start as we are down hill all the way to Lhasa at 3500 m. The hotel was again ok and pricey. We had just an ok dinner in the hotel “dining room”.

We were again asleep before 10 and had a restful night (no calls or knocking). The hotel include breakfast was also ugh, but there was steamed buns and boiled eggs and we had our own Nescafe so we survived. Both the other 2 did not eat this morning. It is sunny, but 2.5 degrees. We geared up and were about to set out when Orvar was again very dizzy. He recovered and insisted on riding. We had only gone about 6 blocks when he pulled beside be to saw he was unwell and we pulled over. He was sweaty and ill looking and likely hypoglycaemic. We pulled out the glucose ampules we had and he felt better in a few minutes, but we convinced him to ride in the truck.
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  #2753  
Old 19 Nov 2017
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We have 332 km today to Lhasa and if it is like the last two you need all your wits.

Screen Shot 2017-09-29 at 21.53.40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Our driver Mr Tang is a motocross rider with lots of experience. Orvar’s BMW suit is 4 sizes too big for him and so fits the much larger Mr Tang pretty well. His wind breaker as well, but the helmet is another story since he could not do up the chin strap or put the visor down…this made for some cold riding. We taped up the legs of the rain pants that he wore over long johns and jeans.

Road to Lhasa-49 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr



FILE2455 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Prostrating Pilgrims on the way to Lhasa.


FILE2494 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2515 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #2754  
Old 19 Nov 2017
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Mr Tang rode the first 160 km to the first check point. We had to stop a few times so he could get the helmet off and warm up. We also stopped a lot today unlike the last few for pictures. The altitude rises to 4700 m and does not drop until about 80 km from Lhasa, which is at 3656 m. It is cold and windy for sure this morning, but better than yesterday. We sure saw a lot of Yaks today. We passed thru a number of small villages, which are much tidier and nicer than most of the Chinese ones we have seen.

FILE2550 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


The road surface as well today is very good. There is much less truck traffic as they stop in Nagqu in the day and then drive at night because they are not allowed to enter Lhasa after 730 am until late in the evening. There was however almost constant construction as they are reinforcing the road on both side with a concrete pad. There is nowhere for construction vehicles to be off the road so they are parked there and traffic fights to get around them.

FILE2579 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #2755  
Old 19 Nov 2017
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Leaving the city we actually first went up in altitude and over a high plateau with panoramic mountain views.


Road to Lhasa-51 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-52 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-54 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-56 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-58 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr



Road to Lhasa-62 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-63 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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  #2756  
Old 19 Nov 2017
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There was a checkpoint 160 km from Naqgu. We stopped just before it so Orvar could ride the bike thru the Police check. It was fairly quick to get thru. Then we rode the 6 km to Danxung where we got lunch and gas. It was mayhem at the gas station with all the local with small bikes and only 3 cans to fill with. There was some pushing and shoving inside as the locals prepaid for their gas and then running to get a can from a guy filling his bike. For us we could pay after, but you always have an extra liter or 2 and you can not just put it in the jerry can. Dan bought 2 litres from the guys beside us who had too much and so we got a can!!! Orvar gave us his 2 litres he had and then Dan gave a local guy the 1.5 we had left….pay it forward.

Road to Lhasa-66 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-67 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-65 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Lunch was noodle soup cooked in a pressure cooker as we are still above 4600 m. We also ran into a Chinese rider here on his way to Lhasa.

Road to Lhasa-68 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #2757  
Old 20 Nov 2017
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There is a huge festival starting Oct 1 in 2 days time and Lhasa will become very crowded. All the non tourist businesses will be closed for a week. All the hotels will be booked. This is partly why we have had to press so hard as we had to pre-book and prepay the hotel there for 3 nights (200$ us/night 3 star and this is a good deal for Lhasa). Ours is a very popular hotel as it has an excellent location.

Road to Lhasa-69 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-70 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-71 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-72 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #2758  
Old 20 Nov 2017
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For the last three days we have been along or near the new rail line and for all this way there is a security guy is a yellow jacket at every bridge, pillar, overpass, or spot you could plant a bomb. This means every 500 m to 2 km!

FILE2592 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We have seen a few crazy bicyclists an a few walkers in the last 2 days, but today we saw many more pilgrims along the roadside. Some were walking 3 steps then throwing themselves to the ground in prostration. They wear special paddles on their hands that slide out along the ground as they slide out flat on their belly. That makes for a very long 300 km. 35 km fro the city we saw masses of pilgrims and in fact they had the oncoming traffic blocked for a km.

FILE2637 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2638 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2644 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa-73 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Yet another amusing bathroom sign in China

Road to Lhasa by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  #2759  
Old 20 Nov 2017
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Once we dropped in altitude it suddenly became green everywhere. 63 km from Lhasa there is a checkpoint and we pulled up and were asked to park to the side. We did not have to wait for the guides long and were only there 5 min after they arrived. There is another checkpoint 43 km from the city and it was the same story. We hardly had time to get off the bikes. The road now is thru a deep valley and is more winding.


About 25 km from the city it is suddenly a 8 lane divided road. We waited for the guides 15 km from the center and then followed them to the hotel. This was a bit of a stressful drive, not that there was that much traffic, but the number of times we were almost taken out by people pulling into our lane from right beside us or merging at high speed was crazy. I think Dan beat his personal record of number of car doors and hoods slammed in payback for nearly hitting one of the 4 of us. It was a long 15 km. About 2 km from the hotel we actually rode right by the Potala palace! We can see it from the street in front of the hotel.


FILE2654 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2662 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2685 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

FILE2695 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr





FILE2713 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr



IMG_0097 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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  #2760  
Old 20 Nov 2017
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In our hotel lobby-an altitude sickness treatment center.

IMG_0104 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

IMG_0156 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

THE most important issue now it to get the suits to the laundry as they have never been so disgusting. Luckily there is a laundry across the road and 200 m right from the hotel. The guy there said he could not guarantee how they would look as they were so bad. He has huge industrial machines and so we are sure it will be ok and it is what it is. We are all bagged and made a minor effort to see the streets near the hotel.

Lhasa-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Lhasa-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There is a pedestrian overpass 200 m left from the hotel and a great spot for photos and then dinner at steam bun only place. Time laps of Lhasa.


https://youtu.be/d-EvzySU9cE
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