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14 Jun 2017
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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Good luck! 10 hours on tarmac, easy peasy 
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1 Jul 2017
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Back down the road we detoured to Garni to see the Garni Temple.
“It is the best-known structure and symbol of pre-Christian Armenia. It is the only standing Greco-Roman colonnaded building in Armenia and the former Soviet Union.
The structure was probably built by king Tiridates I in the first century AD as a temple to the sun god Mihr. After Armenia's conversion to Christianity in the early fourth century, it was converted into a royal summer house of Khosrovidukht, the sister of Tiridates III. According to some scholars it was not a temple but a tomb and thus survived the universal destruction of pagan structures. It collapsed in a 1679 earthquake. Renewed interest in the 19th century led to excavations at the site in early and mid-20th century and its eventual reconstruction between 1969 and 1975. It is one of the main tourist attractions in Armenia and the central shrine of Armenian neopaganism."
 Armenia-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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1 Jul 2017
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Contributing Member
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The second issue of the day (will it never end) I noticed on the way down from Garni some hesitation with the gas. Initially I though bad gas or issue with fuel pump…. But it was super hot and my Beemer buddy grip pad was ? slipping ( I had not glued it on yet as I'm undecided about keeping them yet). We were in a bit of traffic and the issue seemed to be getting more frequent until the bike died. I could not restart it. Luckily i was going at least 50 and on a hill and could merge over 2 lanes to the side. Bike restarted, good gas with throttle, we took off grip pad, then off we go…no died as soon as put in first. Orvar had 1 later of gas from his stove so we put that in. Problem "solved". We had bought gas on the way to the pass and there was some issue with the pump to see the caravanserai. We wonder if there was water in the gas or the station tank was low. I have had this issue before with bad gas under 1/4 tank in Bolivia too. Lets hope this is all it it. If it is the fuel pump at least we have one with us.
Well now it is 3 pm and 38 degrees and we have abandoned the plan to go to one more sight today and we will retreat to the hostel. The gas issue happened about 2 km from the “Villa Rosa” and I managed to get there without issue with new gas. Dan’s stator was another issue. We arrived and had great shaded parking for the bikes, but the hostel leaves a bit to be desired. The Kitchen is used by backpackers and we can not even consider sharing this space UGH! The water is boiling then freezing, but at least the rooms are clean and the wifi good.
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1 Jul 2017
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Contributing Member
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We did walk into the city center, which is all down hill for about 2 km. We stopped near the cascade for a  and then walked down past the opera to Liberty square. This city is full of parks and these are packed with cafes and restaurants, We stopped to see the musical fountains and then found a typical Armenia place for dinner. The taxi ride home at midnight was quite expensive 10$ for 4 km.
 Armenia-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Parliament House.
 Armenia-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
There is a lot of sculpture here and even a few Boteros.
 Armenia-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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1 Jul 2017
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Dan was up at 630 while it was still only 25 degrees and swapped the stator out….charge 14.1! The rest of us rose after 10 and are cowering in the shade. It was obviously toasted!!!
 Armenia-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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1 Jul 2017
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We awoke Monday morning to an email sent at 2 am that our actuation numbers had been issued. This means we will try for visas today.
 Armenia-35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We took a taxi to the embassy for 700 D (2.40/can $) at 11 am, but they said to come back between 2 and 4. ( The hours on line say it is open 9-5, but we had read reports that the hours are really M/W/F 2-4 and yes it is). Taxi back 800D to the hostel. Taxi back to the embassy 1000D. We arrived at 145 and rang the bell at 2 “go around to the left door”. We were met by a very friendly man, passed thru the beeping metal detector, and “took a ticket” even though we were the only ones there. Trevor went first and after 20 minutes the very nice lady told us that yes these were valid Visa grants, but our names were not on the printed list she had. “come back on Wednesday. Later we found that everyone who was issued a number that day had the same issue.
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1 Jul 2017
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We had last night already booked an apartment for Monday night to Wednesday since we did not think we would hear from Tehran. We were prepared to eat the fee and just go south today, but we are happy now to have a place. It is 3 pm and 34 degrees. The apartment we rented had GPS coords and the pin on Bookings was in that spot. The apartment however was not. The street address name is the same as the neighbourhood name. 4 different people we asked had no idea where #17 is. After driving around for 30 min we stopped and asked a taxi driver to call for us. Even with instructions this guys drove in circles for 30 minutes until he made a second call and the renter met us up the road. The renter was a bit of a jerk and refused to admit his address and GPS on booking are incorrect. The place is 3 streets over to the east. These “streets” are steep and narrow. That said it was a very nice place.
 Screen Shot 2017-06-12 at 17.56.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We settled and and Trevor went shopping for and made us Indian food. The first thing we did was get all the suits in the washing machine! This is time consuming since the cycles are so long!
 Armenia-36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Yerevan-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Yerevan-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Just after 2100 a huge black cloud rolled in and it started pouring. Then we heard this incredible noise and that was a huge wave of hail the side of walnuts.
 IMG_8759 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_8761 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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1 Jul 2017
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When we came out to the bikes at the apartment this morning there was a card from a local moto shop put there by a friend of the owner. Moto Shop Armenia. You will not find them on a google search for shops or service. On map.me they come up as an apparel shop. They do have a FB page. They offer service and sales of gear and oil. They had Motul chain lube and so we were all very happy.
Today is a hurry up and wait day we had big plans to go 25 km to the Church built in 301 AD. But as the day got hotter we got lazier.
Dan and Orvar had been given the name of a tour company here in Yerevan that might have tires. Thanks Trevor Angel for the lead. Orvar wants to put on a street tire to save the Heidenau tread. They have a tour company, but have a full service centre, shop, and tire service. Dreamriders Armenia.
 Dream Riders Armenia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Meanwhile Sara walked 2 km in the heat to find groceries for a pork dinner before we go to Iran!!
 Armenia-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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1 Jul 2017
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Well after another 2 days of waiting here in Yerevan tensions are running high. Orvar has waited for us long enough and he is headed south today so at least he can see something of this country. He will ride to Tatev and visit the Monastery in the morning.
The 3 Canadian rode up to Moto Shop, which is 3 blocks from the embassy and they were kind enough to let us leave our gear inside and they covered the bikes up to shade them for the 36 degree heat. This way we could be more respectable to go to the Iran Embassy.
 Armenia-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We made sure we were there early as we needed to be first if there was any chance to get the visas today. From the number of people who where there Monday we could not change it. We were first and the nice lady recognized us from the last time. She processed the papers and then said “ the consul is not in today, they are only open m/w//f 2-4, this Friday is a holiday so …Monday 5 more days for pick up!! AGH!! Then she said if we could get to the bank today and return she would see what she could do. OK RUN! Outside we rushed 1 block up to the main road a flagged a cab. he knew where the “Iran bank” was and agreed to take us pronto, wait, and return. We got in at 1424 and had to go across the city to the bank. Arriving there we took a number, but there was a dozen people waiting. We had some good fortune as the “cash payments” teller then arrived back form lunch and served us right away.
 Border to Tabriz-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We were back in the cab headed north at 1451 and back at he embassy to get a number at 1510. Big tip for the cabbie! She was surprised how fast we were, made a call, and said the consul agreed to do the visas and we could pick them up in the morning even though the visa office for foreigners is not open on Thursdays, It is closed this week on Friday for a holiday and then is not open again until Monday! She said to come at 11. That will be a week later that we planned. Hallelujah! That will mean a very big day for us tomorrow 10 hours riding (plus the border) to Tabriz, Iran to keep to are very truncated and adjusted schedule that has gone from 20 days to 14. We sent a message to Orvar that we would meet him the border and to the guide that we were finally coming.
 Border to Tabriz-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Border to Tabriz-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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1 Jul 2017
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Contributing Member
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We were all up early the stress is really been rough. We walked over to the grocery store to stock up so we could make only gas and WC stops today. Sara went over to get the passports at 10 15 when the office opened. The guard made a call and said come back at 2-4! I said but she said come at 11… So he said then come at 11! At 11 i arrived and took a number 40 minutes later the same women came out and called me to the desk. She said I only have 2 visas and the computer is not working. She said wait another 20 minutes until she leaves for lunch to see if it is working. Trevor and I had visas, but Daniel did not. At 12 she said there was no luck and I lost it and started to bawl from the 2 weeks of stress, all the set backs, the possibility of having to go to Azerbaijan and get the “ferry” from Baku, being so close, now having to wait 4 more days in Armenia and have basically just enough time to transit Iran I had finally had it. That must have done the trick as when I asked if I could come again at 2 she agreed. Messages sent again to update everyone of the delay.
Going out to tell the guys was no fun. They were all packed and ready. Well at least there is a good cafe with wifi in the park outside the embassy. At 2 I went to the embassy and rang the front door bell (the visa office is on the left side). The person who answered said “ the visa office is closed come back on Monday!” Trying to keep calm I said “ I am the Canadian for the visa and was told to come at 2” and I was directed to the side door. Eventually the guard opened it after 220 and he let me in. I took a seat and waited just after 230 one of the embassy staff showed up with Dan’s passport with a visa. YEAH. Now we are finally ready to get out of here. Update everyone again on the new ETA.
 Screen Shot 2017-06-20 at 15.57.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Screen Shot 2017-06-20 at 16.05.06 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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1 Jul 2017
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Riding out of town you head for Mount Ararat, but today it was in the clouds.
 Border to Tabriz by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The ride south on the M2 was thru desert and up into the hills. The road surface is very rough 90% of the way.
 Border to Tabriz-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Armenia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We went thru several rocky canyons and up over 3 passes on the switchbacks.
 Border to Tabriz-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Border to Tabriz-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Border to Tabriz-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Border to Tabriz-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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1 Jul 2017
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
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Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
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"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
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Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
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Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
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Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
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