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31 Jul 2017
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There continues to be a good gravel road until you drop back into the valley near the next river, where there is a lot of wash board and sand. This makes for slow and bone shaking riding.
 Tajikistan Murgab-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-148 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-145 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-146 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-151 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-153 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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31 Jul 2017
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We did however see some Bactrian camels just across the river in Afghanistan.
 Tajik Pamir-154 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
At 1230 we arrived to the next turn in the road this is where we meet the cross road to connect back to the 41. This is 100 km from the pavement and passes over 4300m. There is a military camp here at Khargush and a check point to register your passport and GBAO permit. We discussed stopping to cook something, but it was very windy and so we pressed on.
 Tajik Pamir-155 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-156 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-157 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-158 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-159 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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31 Jul 2017
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31 Jul 2017
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Leaving the mountain again there was another plain about 30 km from the 41. It was very painful washboard and sandy road. Orvar managed to keep upright, but Sara had one spectacular crash in some very deep sand. This unfortunately did torque the lid of her right pannier. We managed to force it back and get the locks closed and the seal signed up, but it will need some professional help. The rest of the box is perfect and there is no problems with the welds or rivets. The last 15 km to the 41 mentally took forever with the washboard and sand.
It was awesome to finally hit the paved road after 4 days and this particularly challenging one.
 Tajik Pamir-174 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
It is a paved road, but very bumpy with dips and heaves. We have 130 km to Murgab and we finally arrived there after 6. The views on the way are incredible and you are at 4000 m until the town, which is at 3600. Just after we hit the pavement we met this Korean guy who had ridden across Russia and to Tajikistan. We warned him that his bike was not for the Wakhan Valley road.
 Tajik Pamir-175 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-176 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-177 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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31 Jul 2017
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The last 80 km seemed to take forever. We stopped a lot for photos. Orvar was bitten in the face by a wasp and it really started to swell. He had to take a Benadryl it was getting so bad. 50 km from our destination we had to stop as Orvar getting drowsy and we were all starved. We broke into the emergency tuna and boiled up some noodles in Trevor's jet boil. Lunch after 5 ADV style.
 Tajik Pamir-184 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-185 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-192 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-193 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-194 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-195 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-186 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-187 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-188 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-189 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-196 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-198 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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31 Jul 2017
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The last part we just booked it as the sun was very low. There is a military check point 5 km from the hotel. Murgab town is really in the middle of nowhere.
 Tajik Pamir-199 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-200 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-202 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-201 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-203 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Murgab looks like something you would see in Star wars. There is of course no wifi and there is power only by generator from 7 am to 11. We pulled into the only hotel in town and got rooms for 30$ including breakfast. We are all bagged and suffering a bit from the altitude as last night were at 2500 m and today at 3600. There are shared cooed showers, which makes things interesting. They have a restaurant here and luckily a local guide translated for us. There is lots of  but none is cold and so we settled on a bottle on Tajik “Cognac” for 4$. Its for shooting only and was terrible.
 Tajikistan Murgab-36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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2 Aug 2017
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Dan was up early to work on the bikes (clean the chains, tighten all the bits shaken loose this week, and inspect in general). This is when we find 4 inch nail #2 in Sara’s rear tire!!! Unreal no flats in 5 years and 2 in 2 weeks. We plugged it and hoped for the best. We will need to take the tire off and patch it/vulcanize when we get back to civilization.
 Tajik Pamir-204 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-211 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-209 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 4 Aug 2017 at 13:36.
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2 Aug 2017
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4 Aug 2017
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A little slide show of the Pamir and Wakhan Valley.
Video link as I can not get the HU embed button to work.
Last edited by saralou; 4 Aug 2017 at 12:34.
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
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Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
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Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
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Read more about Grant & Susan's story
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