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Photo by Igor Djokovic, camping above San Juan river, Arizona USA

I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by Igor Djokovic,
camping above San Juan river,
Arizona USA



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  #1  
Old 8 Nov 2011
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Tajikistan Road Question
Has anyone been up the road along the Pamir River (Afghanistan border) from Khargush east to Lake Zorkul and beyond?

Do you need a special permit to go into this area? Where do you get the permit?

On the map the road appears to continue all the way around- east and then north back to the Pamir Highway and Murghab? Has anyone here been that way?

What condition is it in?

How are the river crossings in there?


Any information is greatly appreciated. We are making plans to ride in the Pamirs in the summer of 2012.


....................shu
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Old 8 Nov 2011
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You are talking the route after Khargush highlighted in green?



In theory, that road east of Khargush is a military area, and you need an additional permit to be there.

In practise it is possible to ride around the military checkpoint at Khargush, feign heading north, and once out of sight, turn east and pick up the road again.

I believe yes the road does rejoin the Pamir Highway at Murgab. You will need to take a fair bit of fuel with you. I think the fuel range required to go around that Kyzylrabat (Qizilrabat) corner will be quite large. The last fuel available before Khargush is at Langar. There is no fuel at Khargush and its very possible there is no fuel at Kyzylrabat or Tokhtamish. Meaning you would have to have a range to get from Langar to Murgab via the corner of Tajikistan.

You should have a chat with Sambor on this forum, he has been down that road - certainly as far as Zorkul - and possibly further.
Last edited by colebatch; 9 Nov 2011 at 16:51.
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Old 8 Nov 2011
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Permit
by the way, a guy I know in the travel industry in Dushanbe who reckons he could get a permit to use that road easily enough. If you wanted to do it "legally".
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Old 8 Nov 2011
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I have not traveled that road personally - I was considering it, but decided to not risk being trapped by weather in such a remote area as I was traveling in early Oct - but I met other travelers who did take that road in a hired 4x4.

They said the road was in decent condition, and I don't recall them mentioning any river crossings. There is very little out there - some herders in summer and a hunting lodge (mentioned in the LP guide). Definitely take Colebatch's advice regarding the extra fuel - in my experience in early October there was no fuel in Langar, the station at Vrang was also closed. We had to continue on to Zong to find fuel in drums shipped in from Kyrgyzstan. Of course if you're desperate someone will usually sell you a few liters for a price.

They picked up the permits in Khorog, I'd assume you can get them in Murghab as well. I think META (in LP guide) can arrange the permits, best to contact someone in advance I would think.
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Old 9 Nov 2011
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Thanks for the info.

Colebatch- Yes the green line is pretty much what I envisioned for a route, except possibly cutting north earlier right after Kotali Yangidawan. Thanks for the advice about the checkpoint. We're just thinking about it right now, but we may be back in touch for more info about 'the guy" you know.

MCole- thanks for the road conditions info, too.

It looks like fuel is probably going to be our limiting factor- from Kargush to Murghab looks like 250-300 km- probably need to carry 4-5 gallons extra each.

thanks..........shu
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Old 9 Nov 2011
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Langar fuel and timing re Zorkul
Hi there,

I didn't do Zorkul, but I have two bits of info for you.

I got fuel in Langar last July. Langar is a sparse and scattered settlement. The place for fuel is couple of kms before the blue sign-posted homestay (on the right as you ride East and the only one I remember seeing). It's in a lone white-washed building/shop on the left heading East – ask around since there are no signs. From barrels, as if often the case in Tajikistan. But like MCole says, someone will help you if you're desperate.

And re Zorkul timing. I would aim to do it from mid-July onwards/ August. By this time the track should be dry. In Dushanbe I met an overlander with a Landcruiser. He had taken the track from Mughab to Zorkul and onto Hargushe Pass in June, but had got bogged down in mud somewhere near the lake and had to be toed out. All of which he loved. Stunning scenery he said.

Have a great time,

Bob
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