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Entering Afghanistan on a Motorbike Not My Own Entering Afghanistan on a Motorbike Not My Own
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Photo by Igor Djokovic, camping above San Juan river, Arizona USA

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Igor Djokovic,
camping above San Juan river,
Arizona USA



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  #1  
Old 19 Oct 2019
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Entering Afghanistan on a Motorbike Not My Own
I searched and searched but found nothing solid. I'm thinking of renting one of the usual bikes (Sertao, XT600/660, etc.) in one of the usual places (Osh, Bishkek, Dushanbe) next summer. Basic concept would be to ride around freely for several weeks, and if the variables align enter Afghanistan at Ishkashim to wander up the Wakhan Corridor and back.

I'm really just wondering whether the Afghan border guards will admit a motorbike not accompanied by its owner. Anyone with some actual knowledge of this?

Questions of safety, extravagant permitting fees, and time management will wait to be addressed separately.

Thanks much!

Mark
Last edited by markharf; 20 Oct 2019 at 01:43.
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Old 20 Oct 2019
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I haven't asked guards but IIRC all crossings along the border from Kalaihumb well into Wuhan valley to Khargush were closed; we were there end of September.

Personally I don't think anyone in Osh be it Dave or Stas would rent you a bike if you mention going to Afghanistan.
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Old 20 Oct 2019
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I've not crossed that particular border, but have driven into Afghanistan at three other borders and very much doubt you'll have an issue. I got in three times without the dreaded Route Pass just by talking and waiting. Afghanistan is a very relaxed place when it comes to this sort of thing, and there's a good chance that the border guard will not be able to read very well. If you bring an ownership document in Cyrillic, all the better.

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Old 21 Oct 2019
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Thanks to cyclopathic and eurasiaoverland! I'm comfortable with uncertainty when it's inescapable--Will the border be open? Will they accept this scrap of paper or that one? Will cigarettes serve to grease the wheels, or only something more substantive? Etc. I'll continue hoping for solid reports while hoping my health allows the trip next summer.

Mark
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Old 22 Oct 2019
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Originally Posted by cyclopathic View Post
I haven't asked guards but IIRC all crossings along the border from Kalaihumb well into Wuhan valley to Khargush were closed; we were there end of September.
[...]
Ishkashim was open late august/early september.
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Old 22 Oct 2019
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I haven't asked guards but IIRC all crossings along the border from Kalaihumb well into Wuhan valley to Khargush were closed; we were there end of September.
I'm very curious about this report. If the Ishkashim border crossing was closed, any idea why?

Thanks for any clarification.
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Old 23 Oct 2019
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Originally Posted by markharf View Post
I'm very curious about this report. If the Ishkashim border crossing was closed, any idea why?

Thanks for any clarification.
There are many physical crossings along the Wakhan Corridor, most are not open to foreigers or not open at all at present.

EO
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Old 23 Oct 2019
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Originally Posted by markharf View Post
I'm very curious about this report. If the Ishkashim border crossing was closed, any idea why?



Thanks for any clarification.
I would speculate due to situation with ISIS in northern Afghanistan. The border on tajik side is swarmed with military
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Old 23 Oct 2019
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I would speculate due to situation with ISIS in northern Afghanistan. The border on tajik side is swarmed with military
As I wrote, Ishkashim border was open early/mid september. This is a fact.

If we have to speculate, I would say that the info you gave is not accurate and the border was never closed this year; but this is just speculation.

ISIS was never in that area.
Even taliban are not that much interested in that area and was very rarely seen in the last few years. They never entered the corridor.

In my opinon we should be a bit more cautious when we give info on the internet...
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Old 23 Oct 2019
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As I wrote, Ishkashim border was open early/mid september. This is a fact.
Correct. I rode with 2 Italians in Tajikistan who had teamed up with 2 other Italians (4 people on 3 bikes) and crossed into/exited Afghanistan at Ishkashim in early September 2019.

They went in and out the same border post. They rode 500km in Afghanistan (250 one way and the same back along the same track) essentially riding along the river on the other side of the valley from Tajikistan.

They were riding their own bikes. They were there for 5 days.

They got their visas at the Afghan consulate in Khorog. I recall total costs were in the region of 500 usd per person for the visa/ official bike temporary fee as well as other unofficial "fees".

They said: The accommodation was very basic and compared with Tajikistan very expensive. The best bike for the track is a full on prepped light weight enduro bike rather than a fat faux euro enduro bomber. The track is apparently very bumpy and with lots of obstacles.

My view: Can't see the cost/benefit of crossing the border just to ride on the other side of the river back and forward in the same environment as in Tajikistan. But each to their own.
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