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19 Oct 2019
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Entering Afghanistan on a Motorbike Not My Own
I searched and searched but found nothing solid. I'm thinking of renting one of the usual bikes (Sertao, XT600/660, etc.) in one of the usual places (Osh, Bishkek, Dushanbe) next summer. Basic concept would be to ride around freely for several weeks, and if the variables align enter Afghanistan at Ishkashim to wander up the Wakhan Corridor and back.
I'm really just wondering whether the Afghan border guards will admit a motorbike not accompanied by its owner. Anyone with some actual knowledge of this?
Questions of safety, extravagant permitting fees, and time management will wait to be addressed separately.
Thanks much!
Mark
Last edited by markharf; 20 Oct 2019 at 01:43.
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20 Oct 2019
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I haven't asked guards but IIRC all crossings along the border from Kalaihumb well into Wuhan valley to Khargush were closed; we were there end of September.
Personally I don't think anyone in Osh be it Dave or Stas would rent you a bike if you mention going to Afghanistan.
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20 Oct 2019
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I've not crossed that particular border, but have driven into Afghanistan at three other borders and very much doubt you'll have an issue. I got in three times without the dreaded Route Pass just by talking and waiting. Afghanistan is a very relaxed place when it comes to this sort of thing, and there's a good chance that the border guard will not be able to read very well. If you bring an ownership document in Cyrillic, all the better.
EO
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EurasiaOverland a memoir of one quarter of a million kilometres by road through all of the Former USSR, Western and Southern Asia.
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21 Oct 2019
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Thanks to cyclopathic and eurasiaoverland! I'm comfortable with uncertainty when it's inescapable--Will the border be open? Will they accept this scrap of paper or that one? Will cigarettes serve to grease the wheels, or only something more substantive? Etc. I'll continue hoping for solid reports while hoping my health allows the trip next summer.
Mark
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22 Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopathic
I haven't asked guards but IIRC all crossings along the border from Kalaihumb well into Wuhan valley to Khargush were closed; we were there end of September.
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Ishkashim was open late august/early september.
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22 Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopathic
I haven't asked guards but IIRC all crossings along the border from Kalaihumb well into Wuhan valley to Khargush were closed; we were there end of September.
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I'm very curious about this report. If the Ishkashim border crossing was closed, any idea why?
Thanks for any clarification.
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23 Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markharf
I'm very curious about this report. If the Ishkashim border crossing was closed, any idea why?
Thanks for any clarification.
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There are many physical crossings along the Wakhan Corridor, most are not open to foreigers or not open at all at present.
EO
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EurasiaOverland a memoir of one quarter of a million kilometres by road through all of the Former USSR, Western and Southern Asia.
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23 Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markharf
I'm very curious about this report. If the Ishkashim border crossing was closed, any idea why?
Thanks for any clarification.
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I would speculate due to situation with ISIS in northern Afghanistan. The border on tajik side is swarmed with military
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23 Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopathic
I would speculate due to situation with ISIS in northern Afghanistan. The border on tajik side is swarmed with military
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As I wrote, Ishkashim border was open early/mid september. This is a fact.
If we have to speculate, I would say that the info you gave is not accurate and the border was never closed this year; but this is just speculation.
ISIS was never in that area.
Even taliban are not that much interested in that area and was very rarely seen in the last few years. They never entered the corridor.
In my opinon we should be a bit more cautious when we give info on the internet...
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23 Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crisidsto
As I wrote, Ishkashim border was open early/mid september. This is a fact.
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Correct. I rode with 2 Italians in Tajikistan who had teamed up with 2 other Italians (4 people on 3 bikes) and crossed into/exited Afghanistan at Ishkashim in early September 2019.
They went in and out the same border post. They rode 500km in Afghanistan (250 one way and the same back along the same track) essentially riding along the river on the other side of the valley from Tajikistan.
They were riding their own bikes. They were there for 5 days.
They got their visas at the Afghan consulate in Khorog. I recall total costs were in the region of 500 usd per person for the visa/ official bike temporary fee as well as other unofficial "fees".
They said: The accommodation was very basic and compared with Tajikistan very expensive. The best bike for the track is a full on prepped light weight enduro bike rather than a fat faux euro enduro bomber. The track is apparently very bumpy and with lots of obstacles.
My view: Can't see the cost/benefit of crossing the border just to ride on the other side of the river back and forward in the same environment as in Tajikistan. But each to their own.
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23 Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris
Correct. I rode with 2 Italians in Tajikistan who had teamed up with 2 other Italians (4 people on 3 bikes) and crossed into/exited Afghanistan at Ishkashim in early September 2019.
They went in and out the same border post. They rode 500km in Afghanistan (250 one way and the same back along the same track) essentially riding along the river on the other side of the valley from Tajikistan.
They were riding their own bikes. They were there for 5 days.
They got their visas at the Afghan consulate in Khorog. I recall total costs were in the region of 500 usd per person for the visa/ official bike temporary fee as well as other unofficial "fees".
They said: The accommodation was very basic and compared with Tajikistan very expensive. The best bike for the track is a full on prepped light weight enduro bike rather than a fat faux euro enduro bomber.
My view: Can't see the cost/benefit of crossing the border just to ride on the other side of the river back and forward in the same environment as in Tajikistan. But each to their own.
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Hi Chris,
I am one of the "2 other Italians", the other being my girlfriend;-)
I will just correct you regarding the costs; still expensive, but less than 500 usd:
- visa 100 usd + fast procedure 50 usd = 150 usd
- bike official paper from the embassy 60 usd
- unofficial "fee" at the border: 250 usd for 3 bikes. This can probably be reduced, depending of time and personal negotiating skills
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23 Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crisidsto
Hi Chris,
I am one of the "2 other Italians", the other being my girlfriend;-)
I will just correct you regarding the costs; still expensive, but less than 500 usd:
- visa 100 usd + fast procedure 50 usd = 150 usd
- bike official paper from the embassy 60 usd
- unofficial "fee" at the border: 250 usd for 3 bikes. This can probably be reduced, depending of time and personal negotiating skills
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Hi Cristiano
I thought by your hubb user name that you were one of the other "2 Italians"  Greetings to Sabrina too. I spotted your bike in Osh and Bishkek after we met.
Many thanks for clarifying the numbers. Actual up to date facts are always more useful than second hand or out of date information, random conjecture and utter bs.
The Bartang valley ride with the other 2 Italians (  ) was superb!
PS. Second Tajikistan visa and new gbao permit cost also need adding to the usd amount.
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23 Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris
[..]
PS. Second Tajikistan visa and new gbao permit cost also need adding to the usd amount.
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Yeah, this is correct: add 70 usd to the total.
I'm happy the Bartang was superb: I hope you had a good time with those funny "2 Italians"
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23 Oct 2019
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Thanks again to those responding and to the leads on further information. Even the disagreements and uncertainties are informative.
Sounds to me as if there may be some confusion about place names in this thread. What I'm calling the "Wakhan Corridor" is a thin thread of Afghan territory which separates mainly Tajikistan and Pakistan. It was apparently created as a buffer between Russian and British colonial territories. The route I'm interested in follows the Wakhan River through the middle of this corridor.
There is also a different route along the Pamir River, with a main road on the Tajik side and a smaller road a couple of hundred meters away on the Afghan side. The two routes in question are separated by the Wakhan Range, which I believe lies entirely within Afghan territory. There is no (tourist) entry into Afghanistan along this section. Of course I'm also interested in that route, but it's not what I'm asking about here.
Hope that clarifies, rather than obscures.
Mark
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23 Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markharf
Thanks again to those responding and to the leads on further information. Even the disagreements and uncertainties are informative.
Sounds to me as if there may be some confusion about place names in this thread. What I'm calling the "Wakhan Corridor" is a thin thread of Afghan territory which separates mainly Tajikistan and Pakistan. It was apparently created as a buffer between Russian and British colonial territories. The route I'm interested in follows the Wakhan River through the middle of this corridor.
There is also a different route along the Pamir River, with a main road on the Tajik side and a smaller road a couple of hundred meters away on the Afghan side. The two routes in question are separated by the Wakhan Range, which I believe lies entirely within Afghan territory. There is no (tourist) entry into Afghanistan along this section. Of course I'm also interested in that route, but it's not what I'm asking about here.
Hope that clarifies, rather than obscures.
Mark
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Cristiano rode what I believe to be the only "road" available to foreigners with vehicles in northern Afghanistan. He'll be able to clarify the lay of the land.
Zorro and Muztoo, both in Osh, Kyrgyzstan rent bikes to people who often ride them to Tajikistan and back. Contact them re. their Ts and Cs relating to the land south of river from Tajikistan.
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