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10 Mar 2010
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Adjust you CO screw out a bit, that should richen it up a bit.
Otherwise, get it on a dyno, so you can see the fuel/air mixture over the whoole powerband..
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10 Mar 2010
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Inlet Rubbers???
Have you checked the inlet rubbers for splits, de-lamination, pin holes yet?
It may be a long shot but easy to check.
Cheers from Oz.
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10 Mar 2010
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Dyno is the way to go you may have an air leak which the dyno should spot. Gibson exhausts (see web for their address) are having a dyno day on Saturday and its only £10 a run and there is free food you could take advantage of that they are just off junction 28 of the M25 so easy to get to.
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11 Mar 2010
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Thanks for the response. I think Dyno is the way to go. I get petrol from multiple stations, plug is good. Rubbers are new looking, but that could be something to look at.
A mate at work has said something about lifting the needle one notch. Without a dyno this would be like shooting in the dark though. I need a tuner, just running it on the dyno is only half the job. Thanks again for the replies. Cheers
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11 Mar 2010
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carb basics
rule of thumb for carbs in basic terms are mixture screws are for idle to low revs, needle adjustments are for the transition from low to mid revs and the main jets are for full revs 
dyna needles tend to be more tapered than standard to give that smoother transition so i'd go up 1 notch or even beter if you can go half a notch some kits have tiny washers for those .5 increments 
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11 Mar 2010
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I just did a little experiment. I rode home with the choke pulled out just a little. It seemed to almost cure the problem. The problem is definitly lean running, from low to medium throttle. Thanks for the info Wolfzero, that is what I need. What do you rekon I should do? The idle is good, so probably the needle position. Do I put the little clip one notch down to get the needle to raise a little more?
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yep clip one notch down will raise the needle but like i said if your dyno kit came with those tiny washers they are nomaly half as thick as the gap between the grooves in the needles so you can raise the needle by half a clip by putting one washer under the clip as you fit it into the slide but dont worry if you aint got em you just might be ok going a full notch and a little mixture adjusting as the idle mix might alter slightly
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Inlet rubbers?
Quote:
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Originally Posted by banditderek;280358[COLOR=Red
]I just did a little experiment. I rode home with the choke pulled out just a little.[/COLOR] It seemed to almost cure the problem. The problem is definitly lean running, from low to medium throttle. Thanks for the info Wolfzero, that is what I need. What do you rekon I should do? The idle is good, so probably the needle position. Do I put the little clip one notch down to get the needle to raise a little more?
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It is easy to check, use a spray bottle (atomiser) with a bit of fuel and spray onto inlet rubbers.
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11 Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky55
It is easy to check, use a spray bottle (atomiser) with a bit of fuel and spray onto inlet rubbers.
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I did the same with a hose pipe once and sure enough steam came out of the exhaust 
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my 4pt kept cutting out at odd times, turned out it was a dodgy neutral switch (on the left side of engine under gear pedal) and a loose vibrating connector on the CDI (under the tail unit). i found out after spending a fortune on trying to mend it, and a tweak with some longnose pliers sorted it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banditderek
Thanks for the response. I think Dyno is the way to go. I get petrol from multiple stations, plug is good. Rubbers are new looking, but that could be something to look at.
A mate at work has said something about lifting the needle one notch. Without a dyno this would be like shooting in the dark though. I need a tuner, just running it on the dyno is only half the job. Thanks again for the replies. Cheers
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Any shop with a dyno will (should) be able to explain what the dyno read out means and be able to tell you what is causing the problem and how to sort it. I use the dyno at Gibson exhaust and they can tell me exactly what to change from the read out, but that should be the case with any shop with a dyno.
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11 Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trix
Any shop with a dyno will (should) be able to explain what the dyno read out means and be able to tell you what is causing the problem and how to sort it. I use the dyno at Gibson exhaust and they can tell me exactly what to change from the read out, but that should be the case with any shop with a dyno.
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unfortunatly thats not always the case some dyno owners are just that 
if your looking for a dyno go for one attached to either a carb or exhaust specialist preferably both as thats what dynos were developed for and if your really lucky the guy running it should be in his sixties an ex racer with a passion for perfection
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Is it popping a bit between low gear changes, and upon deacceleration? It should if its lean.
The CO/fuel-screw affect the whole area, just not much in the top. But i needed to adjust mine after the change of primary jets.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfzero
unfortunatly thats not always the case some dyno owners are just that
if your looking for a dyno go for one attached to either a carb or exhaust specialist preferably both as thats what dynos were developed for and if your really lucky the guy running it should be in his sixties an ex racer with a passion for perfection |
hence the should, i can read a dyno sheet and its not rocket science, modern dyno's do most of the work for you older ones require a bit more mechanical knowledge or trial and error for some. If they own a dyno they should have done a course on how to use it, but i agree thats not always the case.......
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