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Replacement exhaust system for XT600E Replacement exhaust system for XT600E
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 16 Aug 2006
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Thumbs up Arrow
Hello chaps, i have an 1995 XT 600E and have replaced the the dirty great lump of rusty metal that mr Yamaha passes off as an exhaust for an Arrow pipe that is at least half the weight/size and sounds more like the bike should sound.
On the down side, it is stamped " not for road use" but has been buffed out using Autosol and a dremmel, its not too loud as to get any un welcome attention from mr Plod and i have kept the old one for for the mot, but the new one went thru without any problem.
I do think there is a baffel in there some where ? as you can take the end cap off the pipe and then it sounds like a tank and makes the windows shake !
You pays your money and takes your pick, but the Arrow is nice.
Cheers.
Del.
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  #2  
Old 18 Aug 2006
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Talking
i have motad stainless downpipes and lazer pro'duro can, both for earlier models, on my '97 XT600E and it all went together very well. assemble it loosely and then when you have it all where you want it pinch it up. (the rear pipe on the can is VERY close to the inside of the frame, 2-3mm, but has never touched or been any problem in 5 years). the steel is pretty soft stuff so you can always give it some scottish adjustment with your foot
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  #3  
Old 30 Aug 2006
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arrow can
I had the Arrow race can on my 2003 Xt for a few months last year and found it just too loud for everyday riding, had 2 police officers who also agreed! It was a lovely bit of kit, well made and looked great did not rejet and performance did not change. Have now got the original "thing" back on but was looking at other road cans have checked out laser and the predator. Has anyone seen the DEP road can for the XT???? and I am sure I saw CRD make some header pipes has anyone got any experience of them?
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  #4  
Old 30 Aug 2006
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i have the road legal predator pipe on now the hole system and it sounds pretty good / quiet in town with a nice thump thump when its got a load on it
onlt thing i was a bit worried abot the the system didnt line up correctly with the mounting holes on the rear of the bike it had to be forced up a few inches
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  #5  
Old 29 May 2007
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Those nasty studs
Ted how did you go with your broken studs..
Mine had 1 broken stud, on removing the other 3 (after soaking in penatrine for about 2 weeks) I managed to snap another. I then decided to remove them all and replace them with Stainless studs. the threads in the head were so damaged by the original rusty studs I just Helicoiled the lot. Mind you my motor was (and is) out of the bike.
Consider that the Stainless studs will not be as tough as a cap screw and may only be as tough as a mild steel stud.. Point is they break.

I had to drill and collaps my broken studs. If you use an easyout be very careful. I expect it won't work and of course if you break it in there the job becomes much larger.
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Old 29 May 2007
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Originally Posted by markzz View Post
Ted how did you go with your broken studs..
Mine had 1 broken stud, on removing the other 3 (after soaking in penatrine for about 2 weeks) I managed to snap another. I then decided to remove them all and replace them with Stainless studs. the threads in the head were so damaged by the original rusty studs I just Helicoiled the lot. Mind you my motor was (and is) out of the bike.
Consider that the Stainless studs will not be as tough as a cap screw and may only be as tough as a mild steel stud.. Point is they break.

I had to drill and collaps my broken studs. If you use an easyout be very careful. I expect it won't work and of course if you break it in there the job becomes much larger.
The studs on the XT are a majot design flaw. They are far too thin.

I had two broken studs. One just had enough left for me to weld on a nut and remove it fairly easily and the other one I had to painstakingly drill out. I put a time-sert in instead of a helicoil because they are much stronger.

I dont think stainless is a good idea. Its not nearly as strong as the original but im interested to see how you go.

I used PLENTY of copper slip on reinstallion and I plan to change to change them every 2 years.

To get them in and out easily, just put 2 nuts on the stud. Tighten them together to create a lock nut effect.
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Old 29 May 2007
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I an still considering getting (or probably making) some brass nuts. Just like the old morris had..
Again the issue is the strength.
How much pressure is realy required to hold the header in place?? Maybe I'll use a second copper gasket..
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Old 29 May 2007
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Originally Posted by markzz View Post
I an still considering getting (or probably making) some brass nuts. Just like the old morris had..
Again the issue is the strength.
How much pressure is realy required to hold the header in place?? Maybe I'll use a second copper gasket..
Two gaskets will start messing with alignment and may effect the seal.

Brass nuts should be ok. I think just applying copperslip and cracking them lose every now and then will be fine.
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