Pad replacement can be done by just swinging the caliper up away from the disc, but it's usually easier to remove it altogether. As long as you don't disturb the hose joint, you don't need to bleed it afterwards.

I usually use some water pump (slip-joint) pliers or at a pinch a woodworking clamp, and a big screwdriver with some wooden wedges. Anything to force the piston (pistons in the case of the front brake) evenly right back without touching the side surfaces. It/they must go right back into the caliper body so that they are flush or below - if they are proud of the caliper, even by a mm or so, they wil not go back with new pads.

Remove the part of the caliper that holds the pad opposite the piston (from memory, it just pulls off), clean and grease the sliding pins and reassemble making sure the rubber boots locate correctly in their grooves.

You've then got to get the anti-squeal shims and the pads back into the caliper - I find this the hardest bit of the operation as it is fiddly and requires three hands The shims are meant to clip in place, but if they are old they have lost their spring and will need holding. The caliper and pads should then slide over the disc, put the bolts back in, torque correctly, pump the pedal to restore pressure, and you're done.

If the above doesn't work, then there is something wrong somewhere, as it's a relatively easy and straightforward job. Pics would help here.

Hope this helps.

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2006 XT660R daily ride, 1994 XT600E about to be reborn, Blog: http://goingfastgettingnowhere.blogspot.com/