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21 Jun 2013
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bexhill, East Sussex, England, UK
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Probiker oil
I use this PROCYCLE Semi-Synthetic stuff in both of my XT600E's.
The best engineer I know (Klaus) told me that I should stick to semi-synthetic as opposed to full synthetic? I have heard others say full synthetic is okay too????
http://www.getgeared.co.uk/PROCYCLE_...&category=-132
It's made in GERMANY and apparently the Krouts use it a lot in their BMW's (under a different marketing name)?
If it's good enough for the best engineers in the world, it's good enough for me.
Joking aside - This website is an excellent place to order goods. I have used it many times and I'm always impressed with the delivery timings. Sometimes it's here in less than 12 hours!
http://www.getgeared.co.uk/
Best thing about this top notch oil - It's not expensive at £23.00
REGULAR OIL CHANGES = Long lasting engine.
__________________
Triumph Bonneville 800 (2004), Yamaha XT600E (1999), Honda XBR500 (1986).
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4 Jul 2013
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: XXX<-Portugal->Azores->Santa Maria (island)
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kentfallen: He is totally right on this!
I went to full synthetic oil and my gears started skipping... I'd go from 1st to 2nd and it would drop to neutral..2nd to 3rd didn't really notice as I rode mostly in those two gears (live in a small island, no highways, mostly tarmac with gravel on top) 3rd to 4th gear and it would drop back to 3rd, same as 4th to 5th!
Went back to semi-synthetic oil and the problems were gone!
I've been using Texaco 10w30 semi-synthetic for the past 2 years... haven't had any problems whatsoever!
Vando
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4 Jul 2013
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Join Date: May 2013
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Why use 10w-30 when its recomended 10w-40 from Yamaha? I think its always usefull to follow the specification that factory gives on biikes, cars and other motors, thats how the test engine in the factory.
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4 Jul 2013
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In the hot summer (80F+),I add 15w-50 to half of my oil, it gets changed when temps are down to the 60's, my Honda takes 20w-50(as the manual states). I've used a lot of full syn and haven't had any gear slipping, if it was true motorcycle oil(made for clutches, non moly), it shouldn't cause something like that unless something is on the edge and that little bit more slippery(ness?) doesn't keep the gears engaged. The shift forks should hold the gears.
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4 Jul 2013
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xtrock: temperatures here on the island never go below +10ºC or over +35ºC so there's no need for 10w40
jjrider: No! everything in the engine is in top notch shape! Also, the engine was only 16000 km on it when that happened and when I drained and changed the oil it stopped happening!
You have to keep in mind this is an engine built in the early 90's, even the oil seals were not made to sustain full synthetic oil!
Keep good semi-synthetic oil in your XT and she'll thank you with some very large amount of trouble free kilometers for many many years to come!
Vando
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4 Jul 2013
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Join Date: May 2013
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10W40 is a better choice for you then because the 40 is thicker and better for your clutch if slipping.
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4 Jul 2013
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: cajah's Mountain N.C.
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20/50 Castrol motorcycle oil. run it hard , change it often, thumpthump
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5 Jul 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacardi23
You have to keep in mind this is an engine built in the early 90's, even the oil seals were not made to sustain full synthetic oil!
Vando 
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What theee.... :confused1:
Synthetic, and fullsynthetic oils have been made and used since the 60's (used earlier than that for aircraft ect)
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Os for oilthicknes, a lot of different stuff can be used. i wouldn't go under a xxw40. The ticker the oil, the thicker the oilfilm between parts.
I use 5w40 in winter, and 10w50 in summer. Sometimes I use stuff in between, like 10w40 and sometimes 20w50 aswell.
All but one have been fulsynthetic. i just change my frictiondiscs in my clutch because the engine was given an overhaul as a precaution. The clutchplates were in spec, precisely in the middle of max/min meassures. Thats after 120.000km The oil cant be so bad afterall
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5 Jul 2013
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Ya , the myth that synthetic oil can be harmful to an older engine is one of those things that just keeps chugging along. The only time using synthetic can be bad is first fill on a new or rebuilt engine, then you do not use synthetic so the parts can seat(which ironically points to how good synthetic is!) . Probably many issues come from someone doing that and then thinking the oil failed.
The thing synthetic has that I like is for temp changes , it is way more viscosity stable than regular oil. That 10w @65F can be 20w @20F with regular but synthetic is maybe equivalent to 11w. I really notice it in winter when temps get to -20F, with synthetic my truck turns over fine, but with regular it barely turns and knocks (from lack of oil on startup) for quite a few seconds longer, over time that adds up to a lot of wear.
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