Bacardi, does that mean that ALL fullsyntetic oils are bad for our bikes, or that this one oil you tried, didnt work for youre bike specificly? Didnt you order some new clutch stuff some time ago? Maybe youre clutch was just on the egde of being toast anyway

Worn clutchplates and many other things can affect the functionality of the clutch itself.

Manuels arent always right, theyre made so that peaople wont sue too much =) As an examble, the manual tells you to run too little chainslack (the chain will be fully stretched before youre suspension is), and also teels you to completely remove the "bleed screw" on top of the oilfilterhousing, to check that oil comes out when you've replaced engine oil (this will make oil PISS out) Instead you just loosen it half a turn, and close it when you see its weeping from the screw.

My manual states: "recommended engine oil classification API service SE, SF, SG type or higher" and then theres a graph to show which viscosity for which temperatures. My 10w50 handles from -10 to 50 degrees celcious in outdor temp = just about whole year. ( I still change to 5w40 in the winter, for peace of mind. the 10w looks realy thick when its freezing)

It also says to not use oils with anti friction modifiers (energy conserving), mine doesnt do that either, and no "bikeoil" will.

A fullsyntetic 10w50 will last longer/lube better over time, than a semisynthetic 10w50, so thats what I use. I also change it before my manual states, again for peace of mind. 50 bucks more in the wallet saved on oil (an extra change a year-ish), does next to nothing if im out in the middle of nowhere with a dead engine. Im closing in on 94.000km so something must be right.

Oil is a personal choice just like so many other things. So when we disguess it, we should make sure not to misguide each other. Y'all have a nice day now