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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 8 Jan 2015
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Hard to get neutral
It is common in the xt to have a problem finding neutral a stand still in a hot 600 engine. In my 86 it was impossible when hot. I replaced it with a used one off ebay and it was much much better. In my 90 I had the same problem. I replace the motor with another and it will go into neutral even hot at a stop. What is the cause the the cure. I want to rebuild the first 90 motor and would like to cure it if possible. The mileage on both 90 engines was similar. Any ideas? THUMPTHUMP
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  #2  
Old 9 Jan 2015
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For me the type of oil used made a big difference. I started using Rotella because "everyone" seems to like it. All my bikes that I put it in became impossible to shift into neutral when stopped, some got worse than others and it was terrible hot. Switching back to my normal good stuff and the issues slowly went away. That stuff isn't designed for wet clutches , so thats what happens. Otherwise have all adjustments done so the clutch disengages the farthest possible while still engaging 100% when released is enough.

When the cultch basket ears get those grooves worn in them from the plates can cause dragging, thus not allowing shifting into neutral easy.
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  #3  
Old 9 Jan 2015
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I am using the same oil in all bikes with the very different results. I am using Castrol 20-50 motorcycle oil. I have used bell ray also. No noticeable difference for me. The problem is not the oil although it can make some change. When I rebuilt the 86 motor and replaced the trans with a used one from Ebay it was a big difference while using the same oil. There has to be a reason beyond oil. What brand of oil are you having the best results from jj? THUMPTHUMP
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  #4  
Old 9 Jan 2015
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Difficulty in getting neutral is quite common in my experience on older engines. Usual reason is clutch drag- the solution is to replace the clutch plates. I surmise the reason for the plates dragging is slight swelling of the friction material with age since I've never found distorted steel plates in the bikes I've fixed this way. Nevertheless I always change all the plates as a set, friction and steel, just in case there's distortion I failed to detect. And in case your wondering I've always found aftermarket plates just add good as OEM. Finally if you do decide to change the plates think about changing the springs at the same time as usually by the time the drag problem occurs they are well worn out ( usually measuring under spec length). How this helps.

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  #5  
Old 9 Jan 2015
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I have replaced the plates and springs and the clutch basket is smooth. I changed just the fiber plates , replaced metal and fiber and also with new springs. All this in the same bike with a smooth clutch basket. My best shifting bike is a totally original un opened 90 with about 25,000 miles. When I rebuilt my 86 motor I replaced the trans with a used one and reused the same clutch. The bike will shift into neutral when hot much better than before. So, I do not think the problem is caused by the clutch. A bad clutch can make it worse but is nit the reason for it. THUMPTHUMP
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  #6  
Old 9 Jan 2015
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I really like Klotz oils, just seems to make things work good. Suzuki synthetic racing is also nice. I think just the good name brand stuff made specifically for wet clutches will work best. The only troubles I've had with hard to find neutral issues have been taken care of with the different/better oils. Drag is what causes it and the clutch not free-spinning 100% is what does it mostly. The only other is if the trans shafts themselves are dragging some way, whether bad bearings, bent stuff, burrs ect... and not allowing the gears to "jiggle" easily and disengage unless the rear wheel is turning them yet. Many of my Yami's in the past have always been easier to get into neutral from second instead of first, even brand new ones.
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  #7  
Old 10 Jan 2015
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Yeb, fast idle and dragging clutch
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  #8  
Old 10 Jan 2015
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I do not know. I have a 90 with 25000 mi original clutch and a fast idle and it will go into neutral, hot at a standstill. The 86 I changed the trans , used the same clutch and had a vast improvement. THUMPTHUMP
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  #9  
Old 13 Jan 2015
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Honda HP4 semi synthetic, works great. Can always tell when you need an oil change with shifting.
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  #10  
Old 14 Jan 2015
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It could also be caused from the clutch cable simply not adjusted correctly, as you prob know there is an adjustment on the motor and on the hand lever, tweaking these makes a big difference...also a stretched clutch cable will make it difficult to get clutch adjustment right, you can usually tell if your cable is on the blink when it feels like the clutch is getting heavy and difficult to squeeze, squeeze a few of your mates clutches to compare cause sometimes you don't realise cause you get used to the heavy clutch...
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  #11  
Old 14 Jan 2015
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The neutal issue is common to xt600's . Its not a cable problem. People who build motors and replace transmissions can probable adjust a cable. However it could be an issue for a newbe or a infrequent problem not common to the bike. Thanks for the input. If yours does not have this problem cherish it, I have one that does not and I do. Its the other 2 that are a pain. THUMPTHUMP
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  #12  
Old 15 Feb 2015
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I have an TTR 600 (similar model) and similar challenge with getting into neutral sometimes. A simple thing you can try that both helps practically and might be a clue to root cause of problem is that it is much easier if you rev engine when u try to get into neutral.

For me it has become a habit to crank the revs up a little while trying to get to neutral. Usually it works pretty well with just a well timed gentle twist.
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