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22 Nov 2009
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Thats interesting, cheers for the info G600
What about the prospect of fast wear with a part worn chain on the new sprox?
I didn't realise the std Yam front sprox had a part spline
Think I'll cheat and wait until me chain is getting towards then end of adjustment the go for a 2/3 teeth bigger rear sprox
my headlight (more like parking light  ) keeps blowing. See new thread.
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22 Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigford
I didn't realise the std Yam front sprox had a part spline 
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Pigford, please don’t get me wrong, the std Yamaha sprocket is a top-notch quality part. I have never heard anything bad about stock Yamaha sprockets. I would not hesitate to use one again, even if I find the design a little strange.
Quote:
What about the prospect of fast wear with a part worn chain on the new sprox?
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This is true I’m sure. You will get the best durability by always replacing everything as a set. But I have found after 30 years of messing with bikes that the biggest issue is with the chain. If the sprockets are only lightly worn you can just replace the chain. If the chain is worn/stretched it will eat up the sprockets. I have had two rear wheels (different tires), on several bikes, and changed back and forth without problems. On other bikes I have had different size front sprockets and changed back and forth, without problems. The key here is to always have a good chain, unless the sprockets are junk anyway.
Sorry to hear about the headlight problem, I will keep an eye on that thread.
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Yamaha XT600E '01, Honda XR400 '03, Yamaha XT550 '83
Last edited by G600; 22 Nov 2009 at 11:20.
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22 Nov 2009
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Just to back you up, I used to have an XT660R, and I went down to 14T on the front with that. It transformed the bike in the way you describe, perhaps even more. I think the 660 is geared way too high to get around noise/emissions regs, and the smaller sprocket made it feel 'right'. You don't need an 80mph cruising speed on a trailbike. The smaller sprocket made it much more lively, and I didn't miss the extra top end at all.
The only issue was that it knocked the speedo readings out, but your bike won't be affected. There is a workaround with the electronic speedo, but I just lived with it.
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22 Nov 2009
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hi there my 1985 43f had 1 tooth down on the front sprocket when i bought it 7000 miles ago . i changed the chain/sprockets about 6000 miles ago ,again with 1 tooth down on the front, the gearing seems spot on . i think if i had standed gearing i would be constantly changing between 4th/ 5th . also to pull 5th cleanly i would have to be going like the clappers. so this gearing get my thumbs up , also this must give 5th gear a fighting chance  zigzag
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23 Nov 2009
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There's another benefit of lower gearing re: trailriding, it limits the ability of the bike to run away from you on steep descents i.e. even in first, the higher first gear can allow the bike to pick up more speed than you'd like, leading to increased brake application and brake wear which in turn can lead to overheating the brake fluid and loosing the brake entirely until it cools down.
If you've ever "smoked" a rear caliper on a big trail bike when descending a steep slope, you'll know what I mean.
I've lowered the gearing on both my 400EXC and 950SE, the minor drop in fuel economy is outweighed by the increased tractability, the 3rd gear wheelies @ 70mph are an added bonus.
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23 Nov 2009
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Guys, thanks for the info.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Pickford
the 3rd gear wheelies @ 70mph are an added bonus. 
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Cr*p..      not on the 400 I’m sure????
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Yamaha XT600E '01, Honda XR400 '03, Yamaha XT550 '83
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23 Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G600
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On the 950, the 400's revving too high @ 65mph in 3rd although it's easy to get the front up in 3rd at 35-40mph if you shift you weight back a little.
With the 950, you don't have to be so hard on the clutch or throttle to wheelie in 3rd with the slightly lowered gearing (16t front, stock rear), making it more controllable for a wheelie n00b like myself.
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