I'm NOT an XT expert - anything but - but I'll try to clarify the generic "can't find neutral" problem.
First, design considerations:
Gears are often "undercut" where they mate together in order to help them stay meshed. In other words, they try to lock together. Also, on all bikes, especially ones without undercut gears, the gear selector mechanism is held in place in a NOTCH in the gear selection mechanism by a spring.
All of this means that it is
supposed to be difficult for a gear to get "out of gear".
Under normal optimum conditions, the effort required for you to change gears is minimal, a good stomp (hard push) on the gear lever and it changes.
Note that to go into neutral always requires a "half stomp" on the gear pedal, which under optimum conditions is easy.
Clear so far?
The problem comes up when the clutch drags, causing the gears to spin tightly together. In order to change gears you have to press harder on the gear lever - and it's impossible to get that perfect "half stomp" into neutral - you always over-stomp into second or under-stomp and nothing happens.
You can often easily find neutral rolling up to a stop - before you actually come to a stop. (Once upon a time this was normal and commonly required on many bikes - with todays better designs and materials it isn't often required - BUT some bikes, especially older designs, may still have an inherent design problem and be very susceptible to any problem, requiring this technique)
Second, maintenance and usage:
Under heavy use and abuse, the clutch itself can overheat and warp the plates. Also, the cable gets dirty and stiff and slack, and if hard to pull, may not adequately release the clutch.
The cure is simple in theory - stop the clutch drag.
Not always so simple in the real world.
Standard fixes in common order:
As noted above, first clean and lube and adjust the clutch cable perfectly, any doubts about it replace it. Keep the old for a good spare if the problem isn't solved right there.
(The chain is unlikely to cause a problem unless it's way too tight, in which case it could be loading the transmission shaft and causing binding, but unlikely.)
If the cable doesn't solve it, and there is signs of clutch drag, take the clutch apart and check for warped or burned plates. ANY sign of warping or if there is a "burnt" smell, replace the whole set, and new springs. Another common source of a problem is that the clutch plates have worn notches in the hub, preventing the plates from releasing properly. It is possible if you're severely cash-strapped to file the notches out of the outer hub, but the inner has to be replaced. If the notching is severe on a high mileage bike I'd replace the whole lot - all plates, springs, inner and outer hub and pressure plate.
On some bikes the spring which pressures the detent pin or ball which holds the gear selector mechanism in gear can weaken and require replacement, and the pin or ball itself can become worn, and not hold adequately, or burred and sticky. This can sometimes be replaced externally but usually requires dismantling the gearbox. A rare problem.
Finally, the external gear shift shaft can be bent or an external mechanism dirty or incorrectly setup, causing difficult selection. (BMW airheads for e.g. often have this one)
Hope that helps,
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Grant Johnson
Seek, and ye shall find.
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One world, Two wheels.
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com