point75,
D.I.D. x-ring gold chains are what chris scott reccomends, paired with o.e.m. sprockets. In my experience o.e.m. yamaha sprockets last about 15,000 miles on an xt600, without oiling the chain. Chains (though I've never used anything as expensive as the D.I.D.) tend to last around 5 to 10,000.
IMHO the area around Flagstaff has the best dual sport riding in the country, the options are almost endless and the terrain ranges from desert to alpine in just a few hours of trail riding. Riding off road in the national forest (government land) is generally not allowed, but there are many minor forest service roads that cross the national forest which are rarely maintained and perfect for dual sports and almost all of the national forest (except for a few small tourist areas) is free to ride through and camp in. Most of the land is owned by the government, alot of the rest is Indian reservations. It doesn't really matter too much who owns what, signs will be present if there is restricted access.
There are alot of trail riding groups out here, check out advrider.com look for south west regional forums.
When you are in Flagstaff we should go for a ride. Also if you have a chance you should head down to Copper Canyon, there is an almost all dirt route (again see advrider.com) from the border to Creel that sounds incredible.
Good Luck,
Nate
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