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17 Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbmw
This is not a fixed thing Margus. On the diesel bike forum where bikes often run with a max of 9hp, transmission loss can be substantial. For instance the old Enfield gearbox when filled with grease as recommended consumes over 25% of the crankshaft power. Switching to 90 grade oil halves this, with a further decrease of power absorbtion when using 50 grade oil. The new (since 1995 or so) 5 speed gearbox on 50 grade oil will often allow a bike to go an extra 10mph, as it absorbs very little power.
Many modern bikes run the gears in the very thin synthetic engine oils which reduce drag to a minimum, wheras the bmw's use separate gear oil of 75/80 weight. Worse for BMW's is that the gearbox is directly coupled to the engine, so there is no primary reduction. This means the input shaft turns 2-3 times faster. to compound this problem, the output shaft is offset to drive the shaft. This forced BMW to use a gearbox that not only spins fast but final drive is via transverse cogs, all of which conspire to drain power. Old Gearboxes and most car gearboxes usually lock the input to the output on the same shaft, so in top gear power is not trasferred by energy wasting gears at all. This normally can easily be checked by looking to see if top gear is shown as a 1:1 ratio. Final drive ratio should always use the least amount of intermediaries for highest efficiency ( and probably component life).
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Hmmm...
I did dynoed my GS and guys who've dynoed most of the bikes and have extensive experiences on this field said the BMW-spec gearbox/paralever drive-train is within the power loss spec of most of other modern shaft-drived systems (or my over 60Kkms done GS performed well above factory performance specs to "cheat" the dyno machine results calculation), including japanese bikes with wet clutches and gearboxes floating in the crankcases in a very thin engine oil. I use spec oils only: usually 75W-90 GL5 both in gear- and bevel box.
The pro for BMW engine+gearbox system is all the shafts rotate parallel, which, at least in theory, should give the best mechanical efficiency and longevity - i.e. lot of unusually high mileage BMWs, Honda STs & Goldwings, some Guzzis. Engines where 90-degree turns are done have their own "uneffective" losses. So maybe that's why on dyno the BMW specs the same as other shaft-drived bikes that have all the friction going on in the thin engine oil, but with 90 degree turn at one point before it's transferred into shaft(?) I.e. bikes like Yamaha Diversion, Suzuki GS or VX, Honda XLV etc.
I agree the power loss ratio does vary, that's why I use the word "approximately" anyways. Depends on the temperatures of oils, mechanical details (i.e. Klingelnberg-Polloid spiral pattern in BMW paralevers), ratios, oil viscosity etc. But with modern shaft drived bikes the power loss is around 18% range running in common transmission oils in bevel boxes. I'm sure Enfields etc with different oils (even full of grease variant as you said) have different results and probably have more power loss than the modern siblings.
Last edited by Margus; 17 Jan 2008 at 08:18.
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17 Jan 2008
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How much do they weigh??
Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBaba
The weight issue is funny. As always people think that the traditional BMW-stuff is heavy. I compared the weight of swingarm, beveldrive/sprocket, driveshaft/chain on a R80GS and a F650GS Paris Dakar:
R80GS shaft 12,4kg
F650GS 9kg
That’s not to bad is it? …… Well if you need to carry a spare set of sprockets and chain the weight for the chain-bike will be 12.3 kg! Still 100 gram lighter but you need lubricants, a few chainlocks and maybe some tools.
Conclusion: Shaftdrive is not necessarily heavier then chain and sprockets!
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Hi Alibaba,
I just cannot imagine what it is about a couple of sprockets and a chain that adds up to 9 Kg.
Can't say I have ever weighed suchlike though.
I would "imagine", again I don't have weighing scales to hand, that the current crop of BMW shafties are heavier than the earlier models - they just look bigger and, therefore, heavier.
So, is it a useful comparison to take an old bike alongside a current production model (including the next generation of F650GS)?. I quite understand that you are riding one, so you have a personal interest!
I do like the way that BMW are prepared to manufacture bikes with all 3 common(ish) drive systems; shaft, chain and belt. In the next few years, we may see more of the chain drive models appearing, or belts for that matter.
Apart from this, I would just like to remind the original questioner that the chain drive bike can have it's gear ratios changed pretty easily - I don't hear or read of shaft drive owners fiddling with their gear ratios.
That's why the "racers" will always have a whole pile of sprockets and gearboxes for the various circuits - lets see how BMW are going to deal with this when they go racing!!
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18 Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkabout
Hi Alibaba,
I just cannot imagine what it is about a couple of sprockets and a chain that adds up to 9 Kg.
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That's because the swingarm are included (for both shaft and chain). The swingarm are very different on shaft vs chain bikes.
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18 Jan 2008
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Ah!
Maybe difficult to separate out the functions for a shafty, but I may look around for a single-sided swing arm/chain drive and weigh it!
A Duc or a Triumph perhaps??!
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18 Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldelft
Hi people,
new to the site and absolutely love it!
I'm planning to make a RTW trip or Amsterdam-Cape town within two years from now, depending a bit on budget, time etc.
The big question everyone faces is of course which bike to choose? Lots of info and pro's and con's on weight vs power vs reliability, but no one seems to talk about shaft drive vs chain driven bikes (at least, i can't find it, might just be me).
Here in Holland I drive a bashed up cx500 (due to budget and living in inner city), which is shaft driven and i love it. It has never let me down (nearing 90,000km) and the shaft is totally care free. This experience tilts me towards shaft driven bikes, but the only enduro bikes seem to be BMW's, which are not my type of bike (too expensive and too high tech) for a RTW.
What are the options on shaft driven enduro's? Or can someone convince me chain is just as good/better?
cheers
Paul
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Hi Paul
I suggest that with a good chainoiler there is no longer a need for shaft drive. I've had fantastic kilometrage out of my chains (Africa Twin) since fitting a Scottoiler.
I think that this allows a much wider choice of bikes for you. Get a chain drive and fit that oiler.
Shaft drive is of course, still an excellent choice, but the oiler opens up possibilities.
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18 Jan 2008
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Cammys Old Bike......
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caminando
Hi Paul
I suggest that with a good chainoiler there is no longer a need for shaft drive. I've had fantastic kilometrage out of my chains (Africa Twin) since fitting a Scottoiler.
I think that this allows a much wider choice of bikes for you. Get a chain drive and fit that oiler.
Shaft drive is of course, still an excellent choice, but the oiler opens up possibilities.
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Are you keeping the same theme with your AT then Cammy?
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18 Jan 2008
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Never intended to get a discussion going on looks, but there you have it! Thanks for returning back to subject caminando, I had figured the same; either a shaft (limited choice of bikes) or a chain with oiler will do fine for most trips. Cheers for all the input!
Go ahead and have fun talking about looks, gear ratios and the weight of swing arms, i've got the info i need!
Paul
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18 Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldelft
Go ahead and have fun talking about looks, gear ratios and the weight of swing arms, i've got the info i need!
Paul
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Hey! Don't run away we have more obscure details
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18 Jan 2008
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[quote=pauldelft;169261]Never intended to get a discussion going on looks,
Paul[/quote
But it is all part of the heady equation. So, as Alibaba says, don't stop reading this one!
Good stuff there AliB and Magnus; I do like your pics and the research that you guys have put into your preferred steeds.
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