We recently spent 5 months riding through Indonesia, and were completely fed up with it by the time we left. However, if there was one island we'd return to it would be Sulawesi, where we spent 3 fantastic weeks in Tana Toraja.
It's impossible to generalise about Indonesian roads. Some are great, others are diabolical, with an infinite variety in between. But if you're heading out to the more remote villages, don't be surprised if you round a bend and the road has been washed away by a landslide. Only to be replaced by a narrow goat track hugging the side of the hill.
Can't offer advice on motorbike hire, but in 5 months we never saw anything bigger than a 250. Which is an ideal size really. Our 650 BMs were great unwieldy monsters in comparison.
Political instability? Just don't read the news and you'll be ok.
One sour note, we did have a crash helmet stolen. That sort of thing can happen anywhere though.
Cheers
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