If you cross from Lahore to Amritsar, the guys there will try to shake you down for a small amount of cash. One of them took me into a larger warehouse type deal, away from the office, and started questioning me on how much money I had etc. I held firm and didn't pay, but a simple $5 will make this process a lot easier. Yes, I know, bad to do that.. but everyone I talked to did it and did not want the risk of them unpacking all your stuff (some of which then goes missing..) etc.
India is a hell-hole, but the traffic in Lahore I think is worse. I crossed India in two days and hopped into Nepal via Mahendranagar. Peace and quiet the moment you cross the border. Of course, they'll have to go find the key to open the gate as next to no vehicles cross there. In 2006, there previous entry was for people who were a few months ahead of me (and who I had run into in Syria earlier). The road from Mahendranagar to Pokhara, especially the first 2 days, is stunning and some of the nicest scenery in Nepal.
I was back in Nepal a few months ago .. a good place to get addicted too.
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