My feeling is most of the riders are just passing through Pakistan (on their way to India).

As far as I recall one will need escort in the southern part only (I think at least to Quetta).
After Quetta I got the feeling everyone heads directly to Lahore.

Last time round my visa was rejected so Pakistan is still on my bucket list.
I think this time round I could potentially manage to get a visa.
My plan would then be to at least visit the mountains and the KKH in the north.
A hike to see the Fairy Meadows would be on top of the list.

In case I manage to get a visa.
Would I have to stay on the beaten track?
Would I be free to drive to the north and even take a hike?
What does it take to be able to hike to Fairy Meadows?

Greetings,
Wauschi

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One life - live it

This changes constantly. I have been to KKH, in December so could not do everything. Unfortunately not Fairy Meadows, but visited Astor valley (and did an easy hike in area of Nanga Parbat) and also other valley with Lake Saiful Muluk (everything covered in snow, was awesome)
But summer is more practical.

We could drive there, just registering at checkpoints and continue. But half a year later a Swiss guy could not go up there, because it was unsafe or something. I think it was an exception (there were also protest at the time), normally you can go. Try to find most recent info.
It offers a different view of Pakistan, it is a bit rough but very nice.

By the way, you get escort even past Quetta, and today you even need to stop a few days to get a NOC so you are allowed to travel further. That is what I read here. But still you can do it.

Thank you for your feedback!

In the meantime my plans got more specific.
I have an appointment at the embassy in Vienna in CW10.
I was told to bring a flight ticket in and out of the country and travel plans with me.

Around CW18 I will enter the country. I will try to get to the north and spend 2-3 weeks hiking in the area around Gilgit. Maybe I can even follow the KKH a bit to the north.
After that I will continue to India and Nepal.

What I still need to figure out:
- Where can I buy flight ticket and get full refund when cancelling?
- Escort. Is it really mandatory? Can I arrange the escort on arrival? How much will it be?
- Iran vias. It seem I have to buy an Invitation Letter. Shall not be a problem.
- I recall from earlier visits to Nepal there is a company named "Eagle" or something. They will help to fly my bike out of the country. I still have to find the contacts to those gentle man.

Other than that I am good to go.
My company will let me go in CW16.
So now it get serious.

Greetings,
Wauschi

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One life - live it

Yes escort is mandatory, they will not let you go at a checkpoint.
Also read this topic:
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...iran-pak-93661
No arranging needed, and it is free.

We used an incomplete booking of an airline ticket for the visa and they said it was ok.

Thank you for the valuable link.
Good info there!

Does anybody know from which point on I would be free to go e.g. to Gilgit?
I can't believe I have to be escorted all the way from Iran-India.

Greetings,
Wauschi

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One life - live it

They would let you go once you leave Sindh, somewhere between Sukkur and Multan, sometimes all the way until Multan but not any further.

Then you're free. Which is the point.

Have a great time !
Laurent

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2- and 4-wheeled explorer and photographer
Overland Aventure

Glad someone has the ambition to do more than transit Pakistan.

I first discovered this country as a backpacker in 2003 and totally fell in love.

In 2007 I came back with my own car; I liked it there so much that I stopped, did some volunteer work and over the next two years spent one year (over three visits) in Pakistan, exploring every part of the country.

At this time the escorts were not as bad as they are now, but I also got around them by having a local-looking truck and dressing locally.

I actually lived in Sindh and can tell you that it is full of interesting sites; not the mind-bending scenery of the north, but a lot of Sufi shrines, festivals, some of the most ancient archaeological sites in Asia, Hindu temples and ashrams and a lot of extremely friendly and laid back people.

Anyway, to get to my point; travellers always end up in Quetta (probably my favourite city in Pakistan, though I doubt they'll let you do much there these days) and then go down the pass towards Sukkur. But there is a perfectly good highway south from Quetta which goes down the fringes of the Suleiman and Kirthar Mountains, dropping to the coast (and passing the turning to the fantastic Makran Coastal Highway - a spectacular side-trip but probably also out of bounds if the police see you're a foreigner) and into Karachi.

As one of the world's largest cities Karachi seems to be totally overlooked by visitors, which is a shame, as it is Pakistan's real metropolis and most important city. It's not a place with many specific sights (as big cities in the sub-continent rarely are), but if you really want to understand Pakistan, I think you have to spend a bit of time here. It's also logical to start here and drive up the Indus, the very spine of the country.

This makes me wonder; I'm pretty sure you can lose your escort in Karachi, and then make your way up the National Highway at your own pace. The police there will never see foreigners and you may not be stopped at all. Then you can stop in Hyderabad (where I used to live), explore the desert a bit, go to the shrines at Bhit Shah and Sehwan, check out Ranikot Fort and Moenjodaro and any number of other little things you run into on the way. Back in the 1980s and early 90s this region was quite lawless, and out of date travel guides (i.e. all of them) will probably still tell you that Sindh is dangerous, but this is total crap. Outside of Karachi (which has plenty of crime, like all big cities) I reckon it's the safest part of the country.

Here are a couple of my articles (mostly) about Sindh:

https://eurasiaoverland.com/2008/02/15/7ii/

https://eurasiaoverland.com/2009/09/10/15/

In years of travelling around Eurasia, Pakistan is definitely still my favourite country. Don't turn it into a transit of Punjab to the Indian border.

EO

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EurasiaOverland a memoir of one quarter of a million kilometres by road through all of the Former USSR, Western and Southern Asia.

Pakistan is very unpredictable. can't say anything about what will be the best answer about escorts. recently they are give escorts from Quetta to multan not till Lahore.
if you are going towards north police will escort you after Besham sometimes from battal/Battagram. there are total 7 check points between Besham and chilas city and mostly they escort you for sometime and then let you go till next checkpoint and next police station will escort.
Now days they are also give escort to foreigner travellers from Chilas to view point Nanga Parbat which is 65kms from chilas. Once you cross Gilgit city no more escorts just need to do entries on check points (No escorts) like Hunza and Skardu region.
Mostly policemen and very friendly with travellers, they ask for tea and take lot of selfies with you and if you are interested than you can take picture with AK-47