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West and South Asia From Turkey to Iran, Iraq, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Ladakh and Bangladesh
Photo by Helmut Koch, Vivid sky with Northern Lights, Yukon, Canada

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Helmut Koch,
Camping under Northern Lights,
Yukon, Canada



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  #16  
Old 1 Feb 2010
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Carnet is not necessary, it is preferable - but it is if you go either to iran or Pakistan afterwards. You do not need road permit. In Tadjikistan, if you come from the Pamir to the Afghan boarder, the check points are a real pain: cops keep on asking for bribes. And sometimes, they are very very very insisting.

From the boarder to Kunduz, the road is nice, and pretty safe. I went to Kabul afterwards - for awkward reasons: my wallet was stolen in Kuliab (or kulob), and recovered with many dollars less. Cash withdraw limit was reached, so I could not afford to go Mazar'e'sharif and Herat to continue to Iran and Pakistan, even though I already had my iranian transit visa. But on the way, I heard that the road was in pretty bad condition. In addition to that, at the time of my trip, the north was pretty safe, which is not the case anymore.

The road to Kabul is mountain road, with a high altitude pass, under a dark, smoky, unsafe tunnel - scary, very scary.

From kabul to Peshawar, its head or tail. I've met an ex foreign legion chief of operation, who was there a few months before. And he told me that the risk taking involving survival is about 30 to 40%. Maximum risk taking for militaries: 25% in general.

I did not feel endangered at all. But that's the problem: you can not know when you should feel unsafe. Just few things: no driving at nigt (taliban favorie time for action), no campinf (the country is full of landmines).
I was kind of scared, so I rushed a bit - and did not stop for sight seing, pictures and video, unfortunately. The relation with the population was just amazing - the side car helps a bit.

That was in June 2009, and things change quite rapidly. If you go there and come back without any trouble, it'll be a great experience. If things go wrong, they'll go wrong in a way we are not trained for, nor used to.
Good luck!
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  #17  
Old 2 Feb 2010
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Hi Vincent...nice to hear from you. Do you remember me from Islamabad campsite?? British guy with the Toyota Pickup. I've posted a thread in this forum about my 3 Afghanistan trips.

Would agree with what you say...but I think the risks on the Kabul - Torkham road are not quite as high as you state, except perhaps for the military and UN convoys. I stayed 2 nights in Jalalabad, and it felt pretty safe. Security has improved lately in the area (unlike the rest of the country), but it's definitely not completely safe.

I don't think Afghanistan accepts the carnet at all, I didn't even see truck drivers using them. A route pass is definitely asked for (though not definitely needed - it's Afghanistan!) for cars, don't know about bikes.

Where are you now??

Daniel
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  #18  
Old 7 Feb 2010
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On the news today: 2 Swedish soldiers and their interpreter killed, and one more Swede wounded, in a gunfire incident near Mazar-e Sharif.
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  #19  
Old 20 Feb 2010
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Originally Posted by pecha72 View Post
On the news today: 2 Swedish soldiers and their interpreter killed, and one more Swede wounded, in a gunfire incident near Mazar-e Sharif.
As per an earlier post, shit happens and it happens quickly. I reckon it is the case though that the military get the brunt of it - obvious targets basically. So was the UN a few months back here in Kabul and they took a beating (just 5 dead actually), then they turned and ran (with suitably dramatic announcements from ban Ki moon) - if the mil did that this place would be a whole lot worse. About situations developing quickly; there was an avalanche at the Salang pass a short time ago - about 170 dead (still no confirmation of the final toll i believe until the spring melt when more bodies are likely to be found). Some died in the tunnel of asphyxiation - running engines. There were over 2500 people rescued from the vicinity in the immmediate aftermath - could happen anywhere in the world? - discuss.
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  #20  
Old 8 Mar 2010
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vincek100-Kabul-Peshawar-unique experience(nightmare)!I read on your website!

danielsprague-I read your experience in Afg. ,you it was even a pleasant experience!


Does anyone have any knowledge about roads and safety of Mazar e Sharif to Bamiyan province?

Thanks!
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  #21  
Old 9 Mar 2010
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If you mean trying to go from Mazar-e Sharif to Bamiyan across the mountains (i.e. not on the main road), I would recommend against it. Apart from truly, utterly apalling roads, the region is very remote and therefore potentially insecure. You might be able to go from Sar-e Pol to Bamiyan, but again you take the risk in an isolated area. I only went as far as Sar-e Pol, where the tarmac ends.

If you mean taking the normal route from Mazar through Samangan, Pol-e Khomri, Salang, Charikar, then it's fairly safe (by Afghan standards), though make sure you use the northern route (Ghorband road) and not the southern route through Wardak over the Hajigak Pass. And be prepared for one of the world's bumpiest roads from Charikar to Bamiyan.

Daniel
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  #22  
Old 9 Mar 2010
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Originally Posted by danielsprague View Post
If you mean trying to go from Mazar-e Sharif to Bamiyan across the mountains (i.e. not on the main road), I would recommend against it. Apart from truly, utterly apalling roads, the region is very remote and therefore potentially insecure. You might be able to go from Sar-e Pol to Bamiyan, but again you take the risk in an isolated area. I only went as far as Sar-e Pol, where the tarmac ends.

If you mean taking the normal route from Mazar through Samangan, Pol-e Khomri, Salang, Charikar, then it's fairly safe (by Afghan standards), though make sure you use the northern route (Ghorband road) and not the southern route through Wardak over the Hajigak Pass. And be prepared for one of the world's bumpiest roads from Charikar to Bamiyan.

Daniel

Thank you for your detailed reply Daniel!

Obviously it is better to leave this idea for a better (safer) time.

How did you fell in Shebergan(safeti,hotels)?

Many greeting!
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  #23  
Old 4 Apr 2010
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Shiberghan felt fine to me. We stayed in a Chaikhana on the Sar-e Pol road. Were woekn in the night by gun-toting Police who said it was not safe, we shrugged our shoulders and they left...

But it's not a particularly interesting place, try Andkhoi (you can buy bags of moonshine for $2), Sar-e Pol or Aqcha which have more atmosphere.

Daniel
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