Hi Scythian and Grey Beard.
Did Nordkapp trip this summer. Quick and dirty story with photos can be found Markon kotisivu

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Hi Marko

I guess you are Finnish and living in Germany?

I am glad you provided an English version below your Finnish travelogue. My Finnish is a bit rusty :-) and I was struggling with Google Translate until I noticed the English version.

I take it, most of your trip was solo, but you met friends en route?

How much wild camping did you do, as opposed to using pay camp sites, Hyttes or hotels, etc? Your first day was a bit of a marathon, but mostly autobahn.

I will mark in on my plans, some of the monuments that you visited. I will not be going to the Nordkapp Tourist Centre, but rather will walk in to the point a little further north.

Were you using a Hilleberg Keron 3 GT tent? It was a long trip, similar to my planned one. Did you get everything in your panniers or did you have to strap bags on top of the seat and/or panniers and if so, what did you do about security, especially in cities & Baltic States/Poland? Did you use a Pacsafe or similar?

You didn't give the dates of your trip I think, but I am guessing you started about 16 or 17 July. You mentioned the July 22nd massacre at one point.

Thanks again for the link.

Hamish

Hi Grey Beard,

Yep, I am Finn living in Germany
I still need to finalize english version of my last summer Iceland and Faroe Island trip. Will post it here when it is ready (hopefully during the winter time whole page will be translated to english).

I usually always travel solo, this time I met one of my friends in northern Norway.
I camped only on camping areas, plenty of them and quite cheap. Spent some nights in hyttes (when weather was bad), easy to find even on tourist season.

I have Hilleberg Nammatj 2GT. Bought it last year for my Iceland trip. I had 2 strap bags on top of the bike (in addition to panniers). I had my packsafe with me, but did not use it, not even once (I mainly stayed out of the cities).

Started the trip on 18th of July (if I remember correctly).

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Lots of food for thought, and thank you all for your comments.

Thanks also to Grey Beard - I am slowly healing, but still have a way to go. My son and I are both experienced campers on non-official campsites and know how to pack well, but I wasn't sure on road conditions the further north we go. I have friends in Norway, Finland and Russia who have offered me bed and board so I need to decide how far I can afford to go before I have to return to home.

I hear Norway is very expensive, so I will need to budget well. As it happens I'm also currently on the lookout for a set of secondhand aluminium panniers because of what I will be carrying. Seems I need to sell my body to science these days just to afford a set!

Hi Scythian

Yes, I agree the price of the BMW aluminium panniers are horrendous and the prices are not much better second hand. Other after market ones are still pretty expensive, if I remember correctly. Maybe you can do a deal when you buy your GS?

I was in Norway late August/early September this year (with motor home) and the road surfaces were fine, very little traffic, excellent for biking with all the hairpins, etc. We were only as far north as Alesund and that is probably only a third of the way to the Nordkapp - it's a long, long way.

You can wild camp in Norway, though I think it is easier the further north you go. Petrol is 23% more than in Germany. Fuel is cheapest first thing on Monday morning, then it peaks in the afternoon and slowly falls during the week. If you are driving through Germany, fuel is cheapest during the week, but most expensive at the weekend and on public holidays. Most drivers seem to fill up at Hirtshals in Denmark, before boarding the ferry to Norway if you are going Colorline to Larvik or Christiansand. Of course there are other ferry options, or you can go via Sweden. Fuel in Denmark is about 14% more expensive than in Germany.

I think food was about 2-2.5 times more expensive than Germany in the supermarkets. However, I think UK food is more expensive than in Germany. Alcohol sells at stupid prices, though you may find at affordable prices in supermarkets. If you want a tipple while on holiday, try and bring wine or spirits with you. There are limits if the booze is duty free, but if you come via Germany or Denmark, there probably won't be any border controls (Schengen agreement).

The one food that seems cheap/reasonable in Norway, is the pastry/pizza/croissants with toasted cheese on top, in the petrol station/supermarkets. We brought all our booze with us and maybe half the food. We just topped up with bread, veg, dairy products, chicken/pork/reindeer meat & fish at local supermarkets. Some camp sites have BarBQ pits so if the weather is half decent, you could BarBQ the chicken, etc. We did make mistakes in buying the meat however! I bought chicken legs thinking they were raw, but it said they were 'summer' chicken. This is in fact pre-cooked, so you could eat it cold in a salad or picnic, but i still BarBQ'd them. Similar story with the pork. It was more like German kassler, a smoked pork, but it is quite nice. Need to bring a Norwegian dictionary into the shop (or just ask an assistant, but where's the fun in that :-) ?)

Do watch the speed limits though. The fines are horrendously expensive and the speed limit on most of the country roads now is 80km/h (50mph). Typically €800 for a 12.5mph excess on the 50mph speed limit, but the police will take you to an ATM to get the cash. They are not bad that way, otherwise you may get free B&B. Higher speeds may lead to a spell in the local clink. But we saw very few police during our 2 weeks there. Of course you may not want to go too fast as the scenery really is superb, but if going to the Nordkapp, think about the distances. There are a lot of speed cameras around the cities and even up at the Nordkapp, plus the police do patrol in unmarked vehicles. You can get a speed camera database for your GPS, so at least you will know where the cameras are, but they usually pre-warn you that there are cameras in operation anyway. You don't usually get charged (environmental toll NOK 26 for Oslo) for a bike to go into cities or on toll roads, but you will have to pay for ferry crossings and there are a lot of them in the western fjords. Not horrendously expensive, unless you are driving a large motor home over 6 or 7m long. You will have to pay each way to go in the tunnel under the sea to the island of Mageroya, where the Nordkapp is and I think there is another biker toll up by Trondheim. Most GPS systems allow you to programme routes to avoid tools, etc. where possible and some maps show the toll roads. If you go to the Nordkapp Tourist Centre, then you will need to pay another €30 or so/head for 48hours - rip off, but it's a short tourist season.

If you want to go to Russia, you will need to think about Visas and that needs time. I read there is a loophole whereby you can go to St Petersburg on a 3 day cruise from Helsinki and you have to book on some organised city tour, but you don't need a Russian Visa. There was a good write up on one of the caravan/Motor home UK forums that gave some good costs:

Europe By Camper: Russia

Europe By Camper: Norway

Apologies if this link is breaking forum rules.

It would be a good experience for your son, but how would he feel if the weather was not so good? You will know the answer to that, but just something to think about.

Lastly, I found the Norwegians all very friendly and helpful and it really is a beautiful country.

Cheers

Grey Beard

Oddly enough my friend is in St. Petersburg - am thinking of going via Finland to St. Petersburg then down towards the Baltics. I don't think I will have time to head to Moscow and back as I am also constrained at son's school holiday times.
I have a visa cheat for Russia - I have discovered that a French national is charged a lot less than a British one for an identical visa (I have dual nationality), and its also less if you get a 'visitors invite' rather than a tourist one. Is it right I won't need anything else except for an International Driver's licence? No Carnets etc?

I'll be starting at the bottom of Norway to see my friends then work my way north, so how much time should I allow to reach Nordkapp? Would love to time it to see the start of the Northern Lights, but I don't think that will currently be possible. May be mean to my son and introduce him to Lutefisk

Hi Scythian

Not tried lutefisk. Had to Google that and was amused by some of the entries in Wikipedia:

'Most lutefisk is not edible by normal people. It is reminiscent of the afterbirth of a dog or the world's largest chunk of phlegm'.

I am normally willing to give the local food a try (at least once) in the interests of cultural immersion :-) .

Did you ever try Rakfisk? Sounds like dicing with a nasty botulism related death if not prepared correctly!

I don't know how you plan to go to Norway. I don't think there are any direct ferries from UK to Norway now, so maybe DFDS Harwich to Esberg Denmark and then Hirtshals to Larvik or Christiansand (depending where your friends are in Norway). Alternatively Immingham to Rotterdam/Hook of Holland and then via Germany to Denmark. Best book early as the UK ferries seem expensive when booked later - not for the bike, but for the cabin.

I did a quick & dirty route plan from Hamburg to Denmark/Norway (Christiansand), west along coast to most southern point of Norway, then through the western fjords (including Lysefjord and of course Geiranger Fjord), Trollsteigen, Atlantic Coast Road to Trondheim, Bodo to Lofoten Islands, Arctic Highway to Nordkap and to Mehamn, plus a short detour to Reisa National Park and then to Kirkenes (Russian Border). From Hamburg that is 4854km alone, one way. I was then planning a return via Sweden, Finland (Helsinki) to Tallinn Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania and Poland, Would want to go to south of Poland to Auschwitz/Birkenau so my trip would probably run to something like 9500km minimum.

You will need to think if you will need to change the back tyre or need a bike service if much longer. I would try to avoid doing that in Norway given the cost of living.

I want to see some scenery (not just tarmac) so would need about 4 weeks at least (probably another week as I want 5-6 days solo walking & maybe have a go fishing once). You can drive the boring autobahn sections in Holland, Germany and Denmark quickly, but you should go slowly in the fjords until you get to say Trondheim. The fjords are the best biking roads and best scenery as I understand it. The Lofoten Islands are even better scenery, although the average tourist en route to the Nordkapp probably gives them a body swerve. Although the speed limit is only 80km/h (50mph) on the E6 Arctic Highway, you would have long hours of daylight (Midnight sun if you are there mid June/July) so could drive 12 hours/day. I guess the scenery although good, is more Arctic Tundra. Watch out for moose/elk and reindeer on the roads.

It is possible for UK bikers to do UK to Norkapp return in two weeks, but I don't think that would be relaxing, or so much fun, compared to if you had more time.

The other issue is that you probably want to build in some flexibility to your trip. If you go all the way to the Nordkapp, you want to see the midnight sun, etc. i.e. if when you get there, the weather is bad, you will probably want to stay a couple of days until it improves, etc. I met a Greek couple who said they spent 3 days at the Nordkapp, as it was thick fog when they got there at first (summer 2010).

Sorry, but I think you have zero chance of seeing the Northern Lights in the summer, as it is always light :-(. You would have to be there from late September through the winter. I would like to see them also - have seen then in September in the Scottish Outer Hebrides once, years ago.

I think it is generally NOT advised to go to Norway earlier than 1st June, as the higher mountain passes may not be open (including the best hairpin roads). It's getting cool in the mountains in September and of course the further north you travel, the cooler it will be. You will be constrained by school holidays anyway. Mosquitoes may be a problem late June, July, early August, especially where there are trees and lakes, so take DEET and possibly a hat with a mesh cover for your face, etc.

You probably don't want to do more than 250miles/day to enjoy Norway and if you stop to walk up to Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen) or Kerajbolten (Chockstone) in Lysefjord, that will take some hours walking, plus your normal sight seeing. Oslo, Bergen, Alesund and Trondheim are worth seeing, though I am not a great fan of cities.

You probably want to have a few days off biking to relax and enjoy Norway. Of course you plan on seeing friends also.

Sorry I don't know much about the Russian visa/carnet situation. That is interesting about the French Nationality being easier/cheaper to obtain a visa.

You shouldn't, as far as I am aware, need a carnet within the EU and Norway as it is in EFTA, etc. You probably will need a carnet for Russia, however. I don't know if the special 3 day Russian visa allows you to take the bike in - it's a special cruise IIRC - you will need to enquire via your friends/Russian Consulate/Russian/Tourist Office.

Insurance companies are always a bit cagey when you mention visiting Russia. Certainly the motor home hire company we used this summer, mentioned "so long as you are not entering Russia", etc. You probably want to give extra time to checking that out. Also travel insurance/medical insurance/bike recovery in the event of an accident or mechanical problems. On the positive side, the local Touratech shop in Hamburg told me that Russia was OK as regards security, contrary to public opinion. I would be tempted to put the bike in secure storage in Helsinki for three days.

It will be interesting to compare travel plans as they develop. Have a good one.

EDIT: Have a look at this link from this HU Forum. Gives the basics on Norwegian Travel, so should be of interest:

http://www.mc-addict.com/budgettravelinnorway.htm

EDIT 2
Re the Russian Carnet, sounds like it is not required for EU Registered Vehicles. You will be issued with a Temporary Import Certificate (TIC) valid for say 3 months. Vehicle must be re-exported within that time. Make sure you get a multiple entry visa for Russia. You need to get Russian Motor Insurance (the basic legal minimum) at the border. Keep the TIC with the vehicle as you will be asked for it at the many check points.

Here is a thread from HU dealing with this question:

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...mongolia-33936


Grey Beard

Thanks Marko

I bought a Keron3 GT so I can use with my wife when/if she comes with me on the bike and we camp. I am looking at a Soulo one man tent as I want to do some longer walks in the North of Norway and the Keron is too heavy. The sister tent to the Nammatj 2GT (Nallo 2GT) is lighter in weight, but otherwise looks similar, but is probably heavier than I wish for walking, but does have a large porch area for wet biking gear.

Camping cost us an average of €30/night when we were in Norway this year with a Wohnmobile for the two of us & electrical hookup (Oslo was the most expensive camp site), but it would be a little cheaper without the electricity and only one person. Any particular reason for NOT wild camping?

One further question. You went to Touratech before leaving. What bike spares did you/do you carry when doing an extended trip like this? I have a similar bike to yours.

Like you I am not a great fan of cities, though I may force myself to do some sight seeing in them.

I look forward to reading of your Faroes/Iceland trip. I think not so many people go to Iceland (expensive), though apparently very good for sea fishing.

Cheers

Grey Beard

Hi Grey Beard,
Reason why I did not do wild camping was to meet other people. I met really nice fellow bikers and other nice people. Also, camping was quite cheap.

I do not carry too much spare parts, mainly: clutch-, front brake- and gear lever. On a really long trip I carry also throttle cables. Then of course spark plugs, some oil, oil for airfilter, extra bulbs etc. So nothing special. I have 180 000km on my bike at the moment and no big issues. One special tool I am carrying now all the time is GS911 tool for reading fault codes.
I think most important thing is to know your bike completely. If something breaks, you should be able to check if it can be fixed or if you need to find a way to get your bike to the nearest town.

Iceland is absolutely amazing place. I totally fell in love with that place. If I should recommend one place to visit, it would be most deffinetily Iceland. It is not expensive if you camp and cook your own food.

Br,
Marko

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Thanks Marko

You have put the idea of Iceland into my head for the trip after Norway!! Sounds interesting, but my wife will certainly not be interested, as she doesn't like cold or cool places.

I would also like to go to N Africa sometime with the bike, but probably not solo.

I was a bit surprised you carrying a spare clutch. No FP controller? I guess the trick is to have good insurance/breakdown recovery and a mobile phone if you are solo and in a remote area. Maybe I should ask the garage if I can watch them doing the next service, as a start to getting to know my bike. I used to take cars apart, but have never done anything much with the bike (don't want to void the warranty anyway).

The BMW diagnostic tool is quite pricey, but with modern electronic bikes, it is a bit of a nightmare fault finding without one.

Cheers

Grey Beard

No clutch, just a lever.
I have changed standard BMW clutch to ceramic clutch from Touratech.

GS911 I purchased also from TT (home — Hex code).

Iceland is amazing, highly recommended

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