Even with a knackered shock absorber it was still spectacular, although I did come across a little tension.
If anyone else is thinking of going, I would advise sticking to the main KKH and do not stop in Chilas. That place is definately not westerner-friendly. Other than that I experienced only the usual Pak hospitality.
The police said that Chilas is known for it and that Hunza, further up the KKH was fine, but unfortunately I missed it, having to limp back to Lahore to pick up my new shock.
I did manage to cut across to the Swat valley on the way back down, via the Shangla pass from Besham. The police advised against travelling further up the Swat valley but the pass was fine and there is a friendly police post at the top. Mingoara was also friendly.
Graham.
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