I have repaired quite a few bikes that have had the chrome on the forks go rusty or pitted and rip seals, using superglue. I have bought and used several bikes that were really cheap because the cost of a "proper" repair on the hard chrome was more than the bike was worth. One bike, Yamaha XJ550 which cost me NZ$250, was sold to a friend about 5 years ago and it's still good. Here's how to do it.
You can dismantle the fork if there are lots of rust spots or dents, or you are replacing the seals or you can't get to the pits easily. Leave the forks on the bike if you can get to pits and the fork seals are still OK.
Very carefully clean the outside of the stauntion tube (I use lots of contact cleaner).
Use a fine pick to remove any loose particles out of the rust holes.
Use fine sandpaper, preferably at least 400-grit wet and dry, and sand away the raised rust pits or stone chips.
IMPORTANT!!! Always rub up and down lengthways on the fork tube, NOT around.
Follow up with some 600 or 800 grit paper if you can.
Clean again with solvent and dry carefully. This is why I use contact cleaner. It will wash any oil away and drys without residue but I'm sure other things will work.
Find a warm sunny spot, and put a dab (small drop) of superglue on every rust spot or stone ding. Leave the fork tube in the sun for about half an hour. The superglue will go rock-hard and stick like... well... glue... to the clean metal.
Superglue shrinks quite a lot when it dries, so usually a second layer is needed and sometimes three in deep stone dents or where a rust spot is very deep so repeat the above step.
When the glue is completely hard, use the 400 and 600 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper to smooth back to an even dead smooth contour. Pantyhose will not snag when rubbed over the repair if it has been done properly.
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...ilies/clap.gif
You will still be able to see the holes and pits, but they will have a very hard and very smooth layer of dried superglue over them, that seems to last for many years. It only costs a few hours work and a few cents worth of glue. It sure is a lot cheaper than new fork tubes or re-chroming!
Now, if you want me to, I can tell you how to long-term repair CV carb diaphragms for less than five cents too!
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...s/thumbup1.gif
Kind regards
Nigel in NZ