Riding bikes continuously for 43 years now and since automatic chain oilers became available I have used nothing else since.

Curious about chain oilers - know nothing about it. Doesn't it create a mess? Does it lube effectively and evenly? How about cleaning?

To me, cleaning is as important as lubing. And, using stuff that doesn't penetrate behind the rings or deteriorate them. It is also not only about the chain, but the sprocket as well.

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IMHO you don't want it if you ride in dusty conditions oil + dust = grinding compound. It works very good if you mostly deal with the rain.

I try to do diesel cleaning/maintenance after wet or dirt ride, it ends up being something 500-2000mi give or take.

Personally I can't wait when BMW/Regina Endurance M diamond chain will be available in 520 size.

They are lash-ups. Everything from someones high school electronics project through to hospital syringes and fish tank hose. The environment at the chain sprocket interface will make a surface protection/paint/adhesives engineer sit sucking his thumb rocking back and forth in the fetal position, it is no place for 3M pads and cable ties. If you are lucky they stay put and apply something like a suitable amount of suitable lube. If you are unlucky they get cut to pieces when they lose out in fight with the chain, drench the tyre in a unsuitable lube or do nothing and give you a false sense of security.

I will not have another. Scotoil was the wrong lube, too sticky, never going to do anything more than stick dirt on and make grinding paste. Engine oil rotted the seals on one of the fish tank hose and syringe contraptions and a bit of WD-40 can straw bosticked in was never going to control the flow. Both cost more in time and cash than I'd have spent with a rag and oil can or stripping the back end of a Bavarian Behemoth to get at the splines.

The correct current solution is the factory made, bellows design chain case MZ used. Industrial chain lasted 100k+ miles. I hope the BMW teflon/diamond works. Until then is it really so hard to wipe it with an oily rag?*

*I don't use spray cans, sticky is bad. Tot up how much you'd pay wurth and you may as well just buy a new chain when they wear out. These things wre consumables, so consume them.

Before buying an oiler do a lifetime cost analysis. I'd have to successfully transfer the same oiler from bike to bike three times.

Andy

The one I use has an adjustable flow so you can decide how much lube it needs in any given situation.. Very effective, no mess, and I use SAE 90 gear oil in it so no issues with damaging solvents. It also only dispenses oil once the revs rise above idle speed so no puddles of oil if stationary whilst idling. As for dusty conditions, I turn the flow up and this prevents the grinding problem.

Seems to me that to the extent that turning the flow rate up helps with "the grinding problem," it would necessarily be because enough oil is being dumped on the chain so that it washes off the dust....onto the ground, mixed with a lot of oil. I'm not sure that's ideal, exactly.

I put my bike(s) up on center stand, idle in gear, and spritz liberally with WD40 to wash off dust, grit, and grime. Then I wipe with a rag while still running, risking serious injury or dismemberment. Then I forget about it for another 300, 500, or 800 miles before doing the same again. Mostly this happens in my garage, where a couple of rags captures the wash; away from home, I try to find someplace less rather than more obnoxious to pollute.

I've given up lubing O or X ring chains--the WD40 is for cleaning, not lubrication. They last a good long time, then I replace them...using clip-links. I don't replace front or rear sprockets at the same time unless visibly worn, and these, too, seem to last a long time. Call me crazy.

I do much the same - except with the motor _not_ running and the bike in neutral. I've seen pics of a guy who managed to chop off three of his fingers when his hand got in the moving chain.

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Bruce Clarke - 2020 Yamaha XV250

Yup, you're right and I'm well aware of the risk. There are dangerous things I won't do, dangerous things I do cautiously, and even dangerous things I do without any awareness at all. Cleaning a chain this way is undeniably risky, although exactly where it falls on the risk continuum is up for debate. A safer approach is to leave the bike shut off in neutral, tie the brakes and/or stand, and rotate the rear wheel manually while using the rag for cleaning. It's possible that my previous career in the building trades has distorted my sense of what's tolerable--or where to add cautionary notes.

Mark

My original chain on my V-Strom lasted 35,000 miles. I have an old bottle of gear oil that I found at a garage sale for $1 and whenever I remember I squirt a little of the oil on whatever part of the chain is easily accessible without moving the bike.

I use DIY oiler and the main advantage is saving me the hassle of lubing the chain after a day of riding. Additionally, I can use engine oil, which I normally carry to top off oil that burnt, so I don't have to carry another lubricant.


I usually turn off auto lubrication before going on a dirt road.

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I tried Tuturo chain oiler on a couple of bikes. Motion actuated and adjustable flow are good ideas but I found the nozzle got knocked off in the dirt.

Now I use a small bottle of Muc-Off C3 dry lube every other day or on the road.
Pre-clean dirt with a toothbrush.
Dab onto the brush and apply around the chain.
C3 seems to attract less grit, though it is for pushbikes.
I used to use engine oil, better than nothing, but for a ride of a few weeks a bottle of proper lube will last.

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Morocco Overland 4 (2025) • Trans Morocco Trail

Hi Chris,
How do you like your rally ?
I have done about 12,000 miles on my rally and its great !
Cars let you out at junctions !
OIL ........... I never wash or clean any chain .but use loads of old engine oil
on them .I carry 2 small shampoo plastic bottles you get in hotels and my chain get a good squirt whenever i stop !