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14 Jan 2017
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Those stainless hex bolts are probably A2 Stainless.
Their tensile strength is more than up to the task of holding a carb together.
The trick is to use copper slip. Or if you're confident everything is great and always going to be, a medium thread-lock. Both prevent corrosion.
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14 Jan 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
The trick is to use copper slip. Or if you're confident everything is great and always going to be, a medium thread-lock. Both prevent corrosion.
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Any antiseize will work ...unless it is the exhaust system that gets hot - then copper slip.
A thread lock ... umm as the problem described is getting the thing apart thread lock will work against that. So ... unless your loosing the bolt/screw then use the antisize.
Stainless bolts can also be had with a shoulder (shank, an unthreaded portion of the bolt/screw), usually purchasing a longer one will get a shoulder - cut the threaded porting as required.
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A very usefull tool for damaged Philips screw heads .. an impact screw driver - hit with a hammer this;
hits downwards on the screw thread - this can free the thread
hits downwards on the screw head - stops the screwdriver rising out of the head
a cam action inside the impact screwdriver takes some of the downwards force to apply an undoing torque to the screw
Last edited by Warin; 14 Jan 2017 at 02:44.
Reason: add impact screwdriver.
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14 Jan 2017
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
Those stainless hex bolts are probably A2 Stainless.
Their tensile strength is more than up to the task of holding a carb together.
The trick is to use copper slip. Or if you're confident everything is great and always going to be, a medium thread-lock. Both prevent corrosion.
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Yeah they're fine for the carb.....It's the bigger bolt in the 2nd to last pic that isn't a float bowl screw, it's a 10.9 Flange Hex bolt with a wasted shank and the pic suggests it is being replaced with an A2 stainless allen bolt which isn't ideal, not as good as the original anyway.
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14 Jan 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mumbo68
Yeah they're fine for the carb.....It's the bigger bolt in the 2nd to last pic that isn't a float bowl screw, it's a 10.9 Flange Hex bolt with a wasted shank and the pic suggests it is being replaced with an A2 stainless allen bolt which isn't ideal, not as good as the original anyway.
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That bolt goes in horizontally and connects the grab rail to the chassis. Not a lot of tensile forces in play there. Just shear forces.
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14 Jan 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deelip
That bolt goes in horizontally and connects the grab rail to the chassis. Not a lot of tensile forces in play there. Just shear forces.
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So the clamp force and the dowel fit of the original will be better.
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14 Jan 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
Those stainless hex bolts are probably A2 Stainless.
Their tensile strength is more than up to the task of holding a carb together.
The trick is to use copper slip. Or if you're confident everything is great and always going to be, a medium thread-lock. Both prevent corrosion.
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Copper slip is perfect for Bi metal problems the other two 1. use the correct tool for the job not all cross head screws are the same .
2 dont do these up to tight a carb screws need only a small amount of torque to hold the parts together .
follow the above and helicoils and Ezee outs won't be needed.
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16 Jan 2017
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Why the emphasis on stainless steel guys, the real point is to replace Phillips head screws with Allen head bolts - something I have done on all my Japanese bikes, since I bought the first one in 1972.
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16 Jan 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud-plug
1. use the correct tool for the job - not all cross head screws are the same .
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It took me a while (read decades!) to realise that was the reason I continually mangled Japanese cross headed screws and had to replace them with allen headed versions.
The Phillips / Posidrive etc screwdrivers that most diy mechanics (in my UK experience anyway) tend to use are a poor fit in Japanese screws heads and are almost designed to slip out and damage the corners in the process.
Proper Japanese Industrial Std cross headed bits are a "revelation" and don't slip out as easily (on the few occasions I've used them anyway) but you have to go out of your way to find them here. You'd think after 50yrs of riding (and spannering) Japanese bikes I'd have a drawer full of them and use nothing else but I don't. What I do have is loads of allen screws!
If time weighs heavy on your hands here's a link to a discussion about screw heads - JIS Screwdrivers - webBikeWorld
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16 Jan 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farqhuar
Why the emphasis on stainless steel guys, the real point is to replace Phillips head screws with Allen head bolts - something I have done on all my Japanese bikes, since I bought the first one in 1972.
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Because stainless will resist corrosion a lot longer than mild steel or zinc plated...
For almost negligible cost...
Quote:
Originally Posted by backofbeyond
It took me a while (read decades!) to realise that was the reason I continually mangled Japanese cross headed screws and had to replace them with allen headed versions.
The Phillips / Posidrive etc screwdrivers that most diy mechanics (in my UK experience anyway) tend to use are a poor fit in Japanese screws heads and are almost designed to slip out and damage the corners in the process.
Proper Japanese Industrial Std cross headed bits are a "revelation" and don't slip out as easily (on the few occasions I've used them anyway) but you have to go out of your way to find them here. You'd think after 50yrs of riding (and spannering) Japanese bikes I'd have a drawer full of them and use nothing else but I don't. What I do have is loads of allen screws!
If time weighs heavy on your hands here's a link to a discussion about screw heads - JIS Screwdrivers - webBikeWorld |
I can't agree more with this. Ill-fitting tools on screws will do more damage than anything else. Especially if they're corroded in there.
I imagine not even Honda Mechanics own a set of JIS (Japanese industrial standard) though because they're so close to Philips most people don't bother. And to be honest, I bet no ones even heard of them.
JIS screwdrivers are made by a company called VESSEL. They're also really expensive. I have a set of three for really tricky screws but again, I hardly bother.
It's only half the story though.
Everyone owns a set of allen keys. Not everyone owns (or even cares about) a set of specialist screw-drivers.
Allen heads are a safer bet because they're less likely to be bodged by careless owners. And a Cap head allen bolt is far easier to remove when it has been bodged than a cross-head.
It's generally always easier to swap everything with Stainless Allen Cap heads if you can..
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16 Jan 2017
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Stainless steel is brittle. Don't use it for screws "exposed" to higher loads.
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