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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



 
 
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Old 17 Aug 2004
Nigel Marx's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: South Island, New Zealand
Posts: 800
Well done on your choice! Of course I completely approve. As an explanation of the ignition system, I will say a few things. Firstly, one of the great things about the TS is that it is electronic/magneto spark so it doesn't need a battery to start(but a battery is a good idea to keep the rest of the electrical system happy. Without a battery to buffer the charging system, some extra load is put on the voltage regulator and bulbs). It is also very very reliable, so it is usually the LAST place to start in trouble-shooting. All two-smokes like a good plug, and that is the FIRST place to start as it is also the easiest. Plug gap is not critical but there is a best setting (I use my thumbnail!) of about 22 thou. But the most common cause of sudden failure to start (as opposed to some catastrophic failure like a holed piston) is fuel. Are you sure the fuel is getting thru? Turn off the fuel, and open the drain screw at the bottom on the carb bowl. When the fuel stops flowing, open the petcock and see if fuel starts to flow again. If it does, then you should go into the carb. If it doesn't tap the carb with the end of your screwdriver in case the float has jammed, and then you will have to pull the hose off the petcock to see if there fuel coming out of the tank. The filter inside the tank can clog, but it is simple to remove the petcock and clean it. Clean out the bowl trap under the petcock at the same time. These little wonders are very easy to get into the carb. Turn off the fuel tap. You don't even need to take the carb off, just loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb and rotate 90 deg until you can see the underside. Then, with a very good philips-head or pozi-drive screwdriver (it is unfortunately easy to chew up the screw heads) undo the four bolts holding the float bowl on. Look into the bottom of the bowl for sludge and clean it out. Carefully remove the pivot pin that the float works on, remembering that the little needle valve will drop out with the float. There are two jets to check, slow speed running jet and main jet. The slow speed running jet is very small and inside a "well" beside the main jet. The main jet is undone with a 6mm spanner. take it our and blow thru it to clear it. Use a very small flat screwdriver to remove the slow speed jet or use compressed air to blow it out in situ. DON'T poke things down the small slow running jet as the size is critical. Even a small scrape inside the jet can make a difference. Re-assemble, being careful with the float needle and the float tab the closes the float needle. DON'T mess with the float tab, unless you are completely sure some other idiot has. It should never need changing. Pulling the carb apart like this and cleaning takes me less than 10 minutes. Try that on your average Honda TransAlp!
As to a larger tank, if you are in a region that sells the sister-bikes to this, the TF185 or TF125, try to find a tank for it. This will almost double the capacity to 13 liters. As far as I know that is the only option. As it is a steel tank, it is not impossible to get new sides welded on to the original tank to extend the capacity. Where are you? I may be able to arrange to send you a second hand tank from NZ.

Kind regards

Nigel in NZ

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