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Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



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  #1  
Old 6 Jul 2015
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Originally Posted by davidlomax View Post
I'm not familiar with the SM, but the main differences with the 'S' model are:

The 'S' Model has a rear subframe, the 'E' does not
The 'E' Model has a different Carb, Cams and a higher compression ratio (not good for that 'SPECIAL' petrol you get from African stations, but still MILES better than a KTM)
The 'S' Model has a cooling fan, the 'E' model does not.

The last point is the most relevant for those of us prepping bikes because an 'S' model tank will almost always fit on an 'E', but 'E' model tanks, particularly older ones don't fit on 'S' models because the tank often takes the space required for the cooling fan on the right radiator.

For those prepping an 'E' model and worrying about overheating without a fan, you can obviously retro fit one from an 'S' with a manual on/off switch, which you can operate based on the engine temp (get an oil dipstick temp gauge), or you can get a 1.6 bar radiator cap to replace the standard 1.1 Bar item (make sure you check the quality of your radiator hoses before running this) and run a product like 'Water Wetter'. In direct tests in soft desert sand between two DRZ's the bike without a fan running water wetter ran 20 degrees cooler than the standard antifreeze/fan equipped 'S' bike and never boiled over approx 20000 desert Km.
Plus One on Water Wetter. Used it in our race for over a decade.
It works! My former E model did not overheat either. (no fan)

Other differences btwn S & E involve electrical ... wiring loom and charging output. It's different between the S and E. More HD battery on the S model.

Many "E" models for sale here in USA, some even road legal. Most ALL quite cheap but most well beat on.

In the end (if me) I'd pick the S model for travel. You're more likely to find a lightly used example. The E model will have been ridden HARD off road.
"S" model is most likely a commuter bike, many have had an easy life. Perfect choice for long range travel bike. Plenty lo miles examples around for sale.

My issue having ridden the DRZ400S on some longer rides (friends bikes) was the seat. For you young, skinny and tough, a decent aftermarket seat would help ... probably be OK?

But for me ... I need a Wider platform. But still a great bike when serious, long distance off road is planned on a fully loaded dual sport travel bike.
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Old 6 Jul 2015
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Originally Posted by mollydog View Post
Plus One on Water Wetter. Used it in our race for over a decade.
It works! My former E model did not overheat either. (no fan)
Sorry to be the first one to derail this topic but how good is water wetter? is it not just like putting some washing up liquid in the cooling water (minus the foam)? I've heard mixed reports from the classic car world (where my interest lies for this).
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Old 18 Jul 2015
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Originally Posted by backofbeyond View Post
Sorry to be the first one to derail this topic but how good is water wetter? is it not just like putting some washing up liquid in the cooling water (minus the foam)? I've heard mixed reports from the classic car world (where my interest lies for this).
Water Wetter (by Redline Synthetic) is a "wetting agent" that claims to allow more efficient heat transfer. It seems to work best in vehicles running NO COOLANT ... (coolant is banned on Motorcycle race tracks) Water Wetter also provides the same benefits Coolant does ... lubricates water pump, fight corrosion, aid in heat transfer, dissipation .... but is NOT slippery like coolant if spilled on the the Race Track ... and is track approved by AMA/AFAM.

In Western US and California, Summers are HOT at the race track. Walk through the pits and ask now many racers are adding Water Wetter to their systems. Quite a few seem to feel it makes a small difference. It's not huge but most feel it does reduce temps a bit ... but NOT as much as Redline Claim. But when racing in 95F to 100F temps, every bit helps.

Red Line say:
"Reduces or eliminates bubbles or vapor barrier that form on hot metal surfaces to reduce coolant temperatures by up to 20° F

Superior heat transfer properties compared to glycol-based antifreeze

Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems

Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature"


Some of the things Water Wetter do can also be done by regular glycol coolant. But if running a Water ONLY set up, then Water Wetter can help reduce temps a bit, lubricate your water pump and keep system corrosion free. Really seemed to help in our Two Stroke dirt bikes ... fewer boil overs ... no seizures in my experience.

Is it worth it? It's certainly debatable. But in very hot locations (NOT THE UK) it seems to provide a small improvement.
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