Hi Desert Driver,
I crossed through Shesheke a couple of times late last year - no toll on the bridge, formalities in Zam were quite relaxed although quite disorganised. There was a brand new customs post being built at the time, the officials were all looking forward to moving into it - planned for 1st January.
We crossed over on a Sunday (I like Sundays and public holidays for border crossings as the staff seem more relaxed), it was a pleasure - much easier than the reports I've heard from Kazangula.
Oh - and in spite of reports that the Zambian officials would only accept Kwacha - they were only too pleased to accect USD (and at a better rate than either moneychangers or even banks would offer!).
Not saying it hasn't changed though....
Ian
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