Just a quick update on these topics as we have just played the game twice coming into Argentina :
#1 - the reciprocity fee is required for land border crossings, (BUY IN ADVANCE ONLINE and bring the printed receipt) no negotiation, they have signs up in even the smallest checkpoint (we just crossed at Paso de San Francisco)
#2 - insurance IS REQUIRED to bring a foreign registered vehicle into Argentina. If you cross without being asked then you are lucky. Do not count on your luck as we did and were turned back at Aguas Blanca (with Bolivia). They would not let us enter with the bike even to buy insurance which we could not have purchased in Bolivia (we tried!) We came back the next day with a bit of creative photoshopping in hand and got through.
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