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Photo by George Guille, It's going to be a long 300km... Bolivian Amazon

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by George Guille
It's going to be a long 300km...
Bolivian Amazon



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  #1  
Old 3 Jun 2005
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NW Argentina to Uyuni (Bolivia) Routes?

Hi

We are currently in Salta trying to decide which way to get to Uyuni in Bolivia.

Though we want to go into Chile 1st to San Pedro De Atacama.

Originally we thought of going to San Pedro and then coming back and going up Ruta 9 (as this seems to be a major border crossing). If we did this, can any body advise the condition of the road between Tupiza and Uyuni (the direct route)?

Having said that following our crossing of the Andes east of Santiago we are not too keen on crossing them more times than we have to, so the new preferred route is from Calama to Uyuni via the Ollague border crossing.

Can anybody advise on the following -
1) The andes crossing to San Pedro?
2) Road conditions between Calama & Uyuni?
3) Petrol availability between the above
4) Accommodation availability between the above?

As ever, any help is much appreciated.

Cheers

Nick & Jill
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  #2  
Old 4 Jun 2005
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Hi guys,
I travelled from San Pedro de Atacama to Uluni and down to Tupiza end of March.

These are tough and challenging routes but you'll be rewarded with STUNNING views.

From San Pedro to Uluni is 350 miles with no gas (although there may be gas at San Christobal) and after you enter Bolivia there is virtually no road. Just dirt tracks made by the Tour 4x4's that go in every direction. You´ll need a compass or a GPS to stay on the right heading.

I'm on a F650 Dakar (overloded!) and it was a challenge to get it through. I met a couple on an 1150GS that turned back to San Pedro because of the tough conditions.

It took a fairly long and tiring day to get from Laguna Colorado (where there's a very rustic refugio) to Uluni. And don't forget that it's all at altitude (5,000 m in places).

The road from Uluni to Tupiza is at least a road but it's also a challenge. It was dry when I went through and it would only be worse in the wet. The road is dirt track going into and along rocky river beds and occasional fesch-fesch (fine sand). Again, awesome views but tiring! The road improves a lot just before Tupiza. It's 133 miles from Uluni and there's a couple of gas stations in Tupiza (nice town).

My website has some photos and some narrative of roads (see my profile above) which might help.

I'm afraid I don't know what the latest weather conditions are like.

Hope you manage it, that area has been the highlight of my trip so far!

good luck and safe riding
Greg
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  #3  
Old 5 Jun 2005
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Hi Nick & Jill,
we plan to go the same way (Salta to Salar to San Pedro). We will arrive in Salta at Tuesday evening. Will you still be in Salta at that time? We could go for a or two...
Patrick

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  #4  
Old 5 Jun 2005
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Quote:
Originally posted by GregM:
Hi guys,
I travelled from San Pedro de Atacama to Uluni and down to Tupiza end of March.

These are tough and challenging routes but you'll be rewarded with STUNNING views.

From San Pedro to Uluni is 350 miles with no gas (although there may be gas at San Christobal) and after you enter Bolivia there is virtually no road. Just dirt tracks made by the Tour 4x4's that go in every direction. You´ll need a compass or a GPS to stay on the right heading.

I'm on a F650 Dakar (overloded!) and it was a challenge to get it through. I met a couple on an 1150GS that turned back to San Pedro because of the tough conditions.

It took a fairly long and tiring day to get from Laguna Colorado (where there's a very rustic refugio) to Uluni. And don't forget that it's all at altitude (5,000 m in places).

The road from Uluni to Tupiza is at least a road but it's also a challenge. It was dry when I went through and it would only be worse in the wet. The road is dirt track going into and along rocky river beds and occasional fesch-fesch (fine sand). Again, awesome views but tiring! The road improves a lot just before Tupiza. It's 133 miles from Uluni and there's a couple of gas stations in Tupiza (nice town).

My website has some photos and some narrative of roads (see my profile above) which might help.

I'm afraid I don't know what the latest weather conditions are like.

Hope you manage it, that area has been the highlight of my trip so far!

good luck and safe riding
Greg
Greg

Thanks for this great info, are we right in thinking the route you took was the road going directly from San Pedro via Laguna Verde as opposed to the road from Calama to Uyuni?

We were planning to try to do this as a day trip up to the Laguna and back to San Pedro.

We were rather hoping the Calama/Uyuni road might be a bit better defined as we think buses run between these two towns.

Cheers

Nick & Jill

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  #5  
Old 5 Jun 2005
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I rode Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama in late January 05 and highly recommend it. The scenery is straight out of Jupiter. The riding is tough but doable. It was the highlight of my eight-month ride thru Latin America.

South from Uyuni I and two others hit two rivers too large to cross on bikes. That was because of heavy rains. The first we crossed in the back of a large truck. The second, over Rio Grande ... our KLRs carried individually in a bucket loader ... that was cool...

First day south of Uyuni, found lodging in San Agustin. A hotel and restaurant called Mongo’s, which also has a big ex pat place in La Paz. Fireplace and good wine and cold and cheeseburgers and French onion soup out in the middle of nowhere -- unreal!

Second day, lodging at Carpamento Corina. This is a tough-to-find but very worthwhile refugio in the shadow of snow-capped Mount Caquena (6000 m I believe). It is run solo by a guy named Felix. Heading southwest on the road towards Ollague, one would take a left on what does not even appear to be a road ... just a faint track. There is a small, aged, faded sign for "Corina" with an arrow, about 100 feet off the main road. Weird. Ask the locals. Someone will know of it.

Third day, a 60-mile ride from Carpamento Corina to Laguna Colorada. Awesome! Tough sand tracks and corrugation but got thru spill-free. You stop at the Stone Tree, an incredible sight.

Fuel may or may not be available in Laguna Colorada. It consists of two dumpy refugios with restaurant and store. We procured some fuel from a tour operator, and after much cajoling managed to persuade the operator of one of the refugio to part with some precious petrol. So carry extra fuel, and food and water of course.

From Laguna Colorada you can make it to San Pedro de Atacama in one day again thru jaw-dropping scenery, snow-capped Andean peaks, around 16000 feet. Enjoy.
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  #6  
Old 6 Jun 2005
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Hi guys,
Yep that's right. I went from Calamar, to San Pedro de Atacama, across the border at Hito Caten and then stayed in the refugio at Laguna Colorado that night (arriving 5pm -ish)

The road to and from Laguna Verde is fine, and you'll have no problems doing San Pedro to Laguna Verde and back to either San Pedro or Calamar in a day.

The Bolivian immagration post at Hito Caiten was deserted went I went past, which caused me a small problem later on but as you'll be coming back this shouldn't be relevent.

Another option is to carry on and stay at the Laguna Colorado refugio (grim!) which means you could see the Dali tree the next morning (it's 20km north of the refugio) and then turn back. This is still a tough trail but is before the worst of this route.

and yep, I think the Calamar to Ulyni route would be fine.

Whatever you decide - you'll love it! It's a wild area!

happy travels!
Greg
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