Hi all,
Firstly thanks to everyone for their advice on this crossing - it was indeed beautiful, well worth the brrr cold and a lot of fun.
So - quick recap:
1) Roads were absolutely completely free of any snow or ice. At lower alt (ie. at Chilean border crossing 3700m, there was a bit of frost in the morning, but at Laguna Verde where I camped 1 night at 4500m, nothing on the bike in the morning).
2) Conditions: Apart from 30km of slippery, ground up sand/gravel after the Chilean Border post going up to the Paso, it was pretty good ripio. As others have said, they are doing major roadworks along the CHilean side, so this means there's lots of traffic (comparatively), so if you run into any problems you'll usually have a pickup zooming past every 30mins.
Beautiful smooooooth pavement from the Paso (literally under the border sign) all the way to Fiambala. Some nice curves esp as you get closer to Fiambala. I had pretty strong wind for about 100kms which was just a bit tiring but ok. THere are a number of emergency refuges dotted along the Argentinean road if you need a rest.
3) Fuel: Yep - no fuel between Copiapo and the Argentiean border (20kms from the Paso). Indeed 6 pesos/L but worth it if you've no fuel

. For my 200cc I used 17L between Copiap and the Argentiean border, where I gladly fuelled up.
4) Air filter: I did nothing to the carb, but did open my air filter at 3500m. Did a lovely construction of a spinach mesh bag and duct tape to offer a bit of protection from flying stones. Other than that, my lil bike performed beautifully.
5) Where to stay: Yes it was cold - at night. During the day was surprisingly ok. Just used my standard leather gloves, no double layer, pretty much rode in normal gear. But at night - bloody cold. Cause I take things pretty slow, my trip went: COpiapo - Chilean border post (where the Carabinero offered me a bed AND hot shower AND dinner), day 2 Chilean border post to Laguna Verde. There are luke warm hot spring there, and open area to camp. I um found um a 'house' (read Carabinero summer post) and um set up my tent inside - so had a lovely night!. Laguna Verde is A TREAT - a beautiful serendipitious sight to come across after riding up up through the high altitude rocky planes. Day 3 Laguna Verde to Fiambala. You CAN do this in 1 day less, I am just happily slow!
I met 2 other bikers, who had just come across picas negra a bit further south as well on the route so that seems to be open.
I'll be getting around to updating my blog at
chasing serendipity in the next day and will have pics up there.
Ciao chicos and suerte to those going the route!
I'm now in Cafayate and heading north to do Salar de Uyuni

Susan