After researching for information on the boats from Belem to Manaus, I couldn’t find anything that was up to date. My husband and I completed this journey from the 9th September to the 16th September 2016 with two Yamaha Tenere’s (our ‘blog’ is on Facebook, search ‘The Two Teners’, Blog 13 has a detailed description of the trip).
We arrived in Belem on Wednesday 21st September 2016 and after researching and trying to understand Portuguese on websites for the ferries, thought there might still be a boat that would leave today. We went straight through town to the wharf (which is a dodgy area as we had been for warned by other overlanders) to see if there was a boat and discovered the gates to be closed. The point for the wharf is on iOverlander.
We went back on Thursday and found that the gates were closed but there is a guard that makes sure no riffraff comes in. He could have been there yesterday as well but we hadn’t hung around long enough to find out. Ask if there is a boat to Manaus. He might say it leaves another day (probably Saturday) but ask to speak with the captain and he should let you in.
We negotiated the price with the captain for the bikes and hammock space and it cost us R$1200. We seem to think they change the price depending on what kind of bike you have. If you aren’t on a tight budget, I recommend getting a cabin (around R$1000). The ease of being able to lock your door with all of your valuables inside plus the enjoyment of air-con AND your own bathroom. The bathrooms on the boat we went on (the Amazonia) were disgusting. You can also hang a hammock up if you have a cabin.
If you decide to only do hammock space (R$200), make sure you buy a hammock mosquito net, they are worth every dollar. Also bring plenty of water (we took 24L which was ample for drinking and cooking) and food to cook and eat. We didn’t eat any of the boat food and we didn’t get sick. The other ‘Europeans’ who ate the boat food got very sick. We used a JetBoil (with gas) to cook our meals. Also bring a chain and lock to lock all of your things to a post, camping chairs, extension cord (so you can keep an eye on your valuables) and a good book or two, games and cards (there is really not much to do on the boat).
The boat took a full 7 days to get to Manaus. We got off at Itacoatiara because it is an easier port to unload the bikes. It was also a great ride through to Manaus – dodging a few bike swallowing pot holes along the way, also saw monkeys in the trees! It took about 3 hours to ride to Manaus as compared with 10hours on the boat.
The ferry stops at about 4 different ports and sometimes you have enough time to get off and run to the supermarkets to buy a few ingredients. Definitely check with the crew as to how long the boat will be in port, the ferry won’t wait for you – as my husband found out. They stop at Santarem for a fair while, but it is in an area like the wharf at Belem. The other ports have little shops closer to the wharf which makes it easier and safer to get stuff.
Hopefully this helps someone out. We are now off to ride the BR319 to Port Velho and into Peru. Will update when we get a chance.
Safe wandering.
Ainsleigh and Ben
The Two Teners
p.s. Check out our blog on Facebook, just search ‘The Two Teners’