Dear Darby,
All that you heard is true, unfortunately. But at least one of the hotels in town will allow you to camp beside one of their buildings. If they don't, just ride a bit out of town and pitch your tent.
You will not be allowed to enter the hallowed grounds of those sticks-in-the mud that run the Deadhorse Camp. These guys are evil money grabbers. They will allow you past the gate and onto the beach only by taking the little buslet on a tour. However, nobody will prevent you from jumping into the water once you're there. But be warned: The water temp. is reputed to have made some poor guys impotent, and some poor gals frigid.
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